Para 2, S30V and the power of the microbevel

I hate choils
The blade should start where the handle stops

I usually do on small knives too but it works on this knife. I find I use it a lot when cutting things at work. Also, if the lock were to fail for whatever reason, the choil will hit your fingers and not the blade. Useful and a good safety feature. A win win in my book.
 
Hey T.L. You've noticed it. I don't really like using the thumb ramp is kind of awkward to me since I learn how to use a knife without it. So, feels uncomfortable. Instead I put my thumb on the side, on the pivot screw.
What I call hammer grip is pretty obvious if you think in the way you would handle a hammer.

Yeah I see the hammer grip now. I like the grip with the thumb on the pivot screw now that I try it, hadn't really considered it until I saw your photo. Good stuff.
 
nccole;11623089 I just rolled the edge on my Sage 3 (S30V 30 degrees inclusive) said:
I find S30V rolls instead of chipping too. I wonder how it got a "reputation" for chipping out because I never owned one that did.

Unklfranco
 
I find S30V rolls instead of chipping too. I wonder how it got a "reputation" for chipping out because I never owned one that did.

Unklfranco

Honestly, I think it is just ignorance. I did not know the difference until I learned here at BF.
 
I find S30V rolls instead of chipping too. I wonder how it got a "reputation" for chipping out because I never owned one that did.

Unklfranco
There were a lot of theories. I personally have never had a problem with it or D2.
 
There were a lot of theories. I personally have never had a problem with it or D2.

For whatever reason, I've found that on knives that I don't re-bevel the edge seems to chip out. I had the issue on a BM 943 and my Military until I put a shallower bevel on them. It seems like once you sharpen away the steel from the factory edge the issues I had with chipping disappeared. It wasn't big chips, just small ones that I couldn't remove with just touch ups.
 
People say that in the beginning of the use of the steel by makers in general, they could last a while to figure out the correct heat treatment. Maybe the reputation comes from those days.

For whatever reason, I've found that on knives that I don't re-bevel the edge seems to chip out.
Actually this happened to me with this very knife, it chipped with the factory bevel and I got so mad with that I didn't use the knife in 6 months or so (was my first 100+$$)
Maybe burnt steel at the edge???

Mateo
 
I couldn't tell you for sure. It seems that quite a few people have noticed this, but I'm not really sure what the cause would be.
 
Well, blade to handle ratio or whatever you wanna complain about. I've had more PM2's that any other knife. Must have had
15 at one time in s90v, CTS-XHP, CTS-20CP, D2, M390 and a few I forget about. I loved them all. Only have a few "lessers" remaining, and those I'll keep. I have one 20CP that's a favorite, and an all-black in S30v that's a kick-around knife. But the folks who talk about all these ratios are just trying to find an excuse to NOT buy one and try it out. A wonderful folder, and the compression lock kicks butt. Just don't cut off your finger-tips playing with it.

I own one and still find the ratio off. Would be cool to see a military length blade in it. That or maybe re-profile the back end and shorten it. Anybody ever do that, or seen a pic? The one cool thing I like about the para2 the best is how many iterations there has been of it! I still use it here and there though, no big deal.

Back on track, Love that picture of it all covered in drywall! Its nice to see people actually using their knives :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
For whatever reason, I've found that on knives that I don't re-bevel the edge seems to chip out. I had the issue on a BM 943 and my Military until I put a shallower bevel on them. It seems like once you sharpen away the steel from the factory edge the issues I had with chipping disappeared. It wasn't big chips, just small ones that I couldn't remove with just touch ups.

I've had this happen to a fiskars hatchet when it was new. Sharpened it and it never happened again. My guess is burnt steel at the very edge as well.
 
I own one and still find the ratio off. Would be cool to see a military length blade in it...

I own one too, and also find the ratio off, specially with the choil (which I like, but don't believe I need). I just don't like not being able to slice a tomato, onion, or apple in one stroke. Maybe I should try a Military.
 
I own one too, and also find the ratio off, specially with the choil (which I like, but don't believe I need). I just don't like not being able to slice a tomato, onion, or apple in one stroke. Maybe I should try a Military.

The Military is fantastic!
 
every time i see a knife being used hard like this puts a big smile on my face :) i've been cutting up wood, sheet rock, insulation, etc. with my orange military and my friend is doing the same to his all-black military (i sold that to him last year) this past couple of weekends while we fix his flood-damaged home...i'll see if i can take pics of them both tomorrow when i head over there.

nice pm2 by the way! i finally found an all-black in stock and ordered one after a week of looking.
 
Hey guys, it doesn't matter a little deviation of the subject, that's the fun part of the forum.
My impressions on the blade/handle ratio "issue" (here is a more accurate pic)

that in fact is one of the things that make this knife so praised, and for illustrate that here are some picks of the common grips I usually use with it:
Unlike a lot of the video reviews I have seen on the Internet the hammer grip is the less practical for me and only use it when I have to put a lot of force behind the edge which is not very often

Next one is the precision cutting grip, and here is what the choil is all about, look how close to the edge you can get with this grip

You can rest your thumb in the spine for forward cutting or on the flat of the blade for sideways cutting.

The last one and the most used grip by a large margin is the cutting grip( that's what a knife is all about :D)

Here is where the para excels, you can put your index finger on the choil or not but look how well the curve of the handle follows the shape of the palm, and how comfortable the other fingers rest on the belly, besides the so controversial hadle/blade ratio provides a huge leverage with this grip for a really powerful yet controlled cut.

Just my opinion on the ergos, to follow the debate.
Thank you for your answers guys, keep going

Mateo

Good explanation of the different grips and how each has its advantages.
 
Para 2 is my work EDC. I never use the choil as intended. Most cutting is done in hammer grip with index finger anchored in the large cutout of the forward handle. Really fine work gets done with a pinch grip like chefs use, except my index finger pad in the opening hole provides positive registration.

I also do some fine work edge up with my thumb on the pivot, my middle finger pad in the hole, and index opposite the thumb. The handle rests on the web of my thumb and forefinger. Edge up is the only way to see what I'm doing on some tasks, and this delicate grip is very comfortable and controllable. The Spyderhole is essential to safety/control in this last grip, so for my needs the folder without an opening hole is "defective," as noted in someone's tag line either here or Spyderco forum.
 
Para 2 is my work EDC. I never use the choil as intended. Most cutting is done in hammer grip with index finger anchored in the large cutout of the forward handle. Really fine work gets done with a pinch grip like chefs use, except my index finger pad in the opening hole provides positive registration.

I also do some fine work edge up with my thumb on the pivot, my middle finger pad in the hole, and index opposite the thumb. The handle rests on the web of my thumb and forefinger. Edge up is the only way to see what I'm doing on some tasks, and this delicate grip is very comfortable and controllable. The Spyderhole is essential to safety/control in this last grip, so for my needs the folder without an opening hole is "defective," as noted in someone's tag line either here or Spyderco forum.

Your grips sound exactly like my use of my Benchmade 745 Mini Dejavoo, now discontinued but found for less than a Para2, which does not suffer from many of the Para2's faults including the poor edge:handle ratio.
To all, that large cut-out under the blade and integral guard isn't really a "choil" for the very reason that it is below the integral guard. It is simply a finger-groove. The Para2 does not have a "choil".
 
Trimming the end of a shelf is really something that I would grab a low angle block plane for. If in a hurry, a nice wide paring chisel would do the job.
Of course, they are rarely in my pocket, but they are in the tool cabinet.
 
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