The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
I've had my Para 3 S110v for about eight months. Same issue, tried everything and it is still there. I've accepted it as a design shortcoming
Just loosen the stop pin screw. With it a little loose, flick the knife open really hard. Do it a couple of times. With the blade open,
Unfortunately this will not work as the issue is with the Spyderco Para 3 in this particular thread. The Para 3 has a floating stop pin that can't be adjusted and only rotated.
Forgive me for replying to an old thread (mods please delete if I'm out of line).
I have a lot of Para 3s and have encountered lock stick on a few of them. There is a good amount of truth already shared here on this issue, but I'd like to discuss my own experiences. As always YMMV....
That's it. Best of luck.
- Lock stick won't fix itself by working the action repeatedly. It typically doesn't 'break in' after multiple openings/closings of the blade. I own ten (10) Para 3s and at this point I can make this statement without any reservations.
- Spydieflicking the blade open, or any forceful deployment method exacerbates the issue. It causes the locking mechanism to over-travel on the contact point with base of the blade. Thus increasing lock stick.
- DLC coated blades are more prone to sticky actions.
- Really high HRC steels, like Maxamet for example, are super slick, and in my experience, almost immune to lock stick. The blade steel is just too hard for the lock to stick against. Maxamet is an incredible steel in general. The back lock interface of the Native 5 also benefits greatly from the high hardness of this steel.
- Bending back the liner/lock bar is really the only way to alleviate the issue, but it's risky in its own right. If you're going to try it, keep in mind that a little bit goes a long way. Start small in your adjustments and work up slowly from there.
- Do not tinker with the blade itself...ever.
- Some people have shared having success by tweaking the stop pin. I'm not doubting it, but I haven't had that work for me. It's a fairly noninvasive solution, though, so I won't knock trying it.
- Obviously, any of this voids the warranty, so if you're the kind of person who would knowingly void a warranty and then complain about a company not providing free service to fix your mistakes, then just don't do it. If you hate the lock stick just return the knife and move on. If you're bold enough to work on it with WIHA tools, or similar quality, and are willing to take your chances and not hold a great company like Spyderco accountable for your crap workmanship, then it can be fixed. I've done it several times.
- A little lock stick may be undesirable for a fidget toy, but it has no negative effect on the performance of your knife. A sticky lock is a secure lock.
- If the lock is to the point of being difficult to depress and disengage, though, that's different. If that is the case, just send it back to Spyderco.
You're exactly right. Sadly, I know several people who buy multiple of the same model and keep the one without stick. For me personally, I have zero interesting in knives that have stick...takes the fun out of it completely and it's unpleasant to have to wonder what you're going to get.
You're exactly right. Sadly, I know several people who buy multiple of the same model and keep the one without stick. For me personally, I have zero interesting in knives that have stick...takes the fun out of it completely and it's unpleasant to have to wonder what you're going to get.
I hear ya, brother. What do you do, though, if you buy several examples of a model and they all have lock stick?![]()
Its frustrating for sure but these kinds of problems are not exclusive to Spyderco. With a Spyderco, the problems generally can be remedied by the end user.
You would think a knife north of $100 would be free of issues but $100 isnt worth as much anymore and there's more significant issues with some other brands at much higher price points. Even "prescision" brands that exist north of the $1000 mark have their share of problems.