para2 edge retention

I was pretty negative about S30V (it's still not my favorite steel by far) but I have a bit more respect for it lately. I had been experiencing the loss of the ultra sharp edge on my S30V Para 2 pretty disappointingly quickly until I redid the bevels carefully to 15 degrees all the way to the edge with the Sharpmaker (diamond rods through UF rods) and then further polished the bevels by taking it up through my waterstones freehand finishing with a Naniwa Superstone 10k. (That stone puts an amazingly brilliant mirror edge on if the prior scratches have been smoothed out sufficiently.) By this time, the edge was sharp enough that I was afraid to even try stropping it for fear of messing it up. Then I used the UF rods in the 20 degree slots to put a very slight invisible to the naked eye micro bevel on. This didn't seem to hurt anything and I think it helps make the edge a little bit more durable even though the micro bevel is really very very slight. Finally I went back to the Naniwa 10k and just did some very light strokes with the spine raised to about 20 degrees. After all that, the knife is razor sharp and has been holding up much better than before. The Naniwa was really unnecessary and more for cosmetics. The UF rods really would have been sufficient. But I don't think the Naniwa hurt anything and I love the finish it leaves.

After all that, now I just touch up every 3 or 4 days with either the UF rods in the 40 degree slots or freehand with the 10k Naniwa depending on my mood. It just takes a couple of strokes or about a minute, and that's been keeping it satisfyingly sharp. Sharp enough to cut me a few times when I got careless while testing the edge with my finger which is something I like to do.
 
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With the Fine rods, my para2 edge held really well. I have only used it to cut branches, plastic wrappers, and a few cardboard. It can still shave after 3 weeks of usage.
However i just caused my para2 to bend 0.5 inches to the tip while poking some holes on a fallen tree today. I thought S30v steel was much harder.
 
You bent the tip of your para 2 by half an inch?! Sorry, but until I see a pic you're either BS or you don't know how to judge half an inch.


With the Fine rods, my para2 edge held really well. I have only used it to cut branches, plastic wrappers, and a few cardboard. It can still shave after 3 weeks of usage.
However i just caused my para2 to bend 0.5 inches to the tip while poking some holes on a fallen tree today. I thought S30v steel was much harder.
 
(...)bend 0.5 inches to the tip (...) I thought S30v steel was much harder.

actually it's kinda good it's not as hard as you thought. if it was it would have broken instead of bending.
 
If you want a stainless that will hold a shaving edge for a long time get the manix 2 in xhp or any spyderco in zdp . They both will hold a shaving edge for awhile and my knives do work all day at the plant nursery,
 
I preordered a M4 Manix. Not real worried about stainless or not stainless aspect. Not paying what the xhp is bringing.
 
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It doesn't look serious, but i don't think this para2 can be used for poking holes in trees anymore.
The para2 is my favourite edc, and i will probably go into a depression for a month if it snaps.
 
Ok now that makes sense in my head. I thought you meant you bent the tip half an inch over from the plum line of the spine. Now I see you meant that about half an inch of the tip is bent. Context is everything. Haha :)



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It doesn't look serious, but i don't think this para2 can be used for poking holes in trees anymore.
The para2 is my favourite edc, and i will probably go into a depression for a month if it snaps.
 
Sorry for causing this misunderstanding. Luckily my para2 tip is still instact :/
And out of the sudden, ''CPM S30V sanmai'' came into my mind. Lol
 
Sorry for causing this misunderstanding. Luckily my para2 tip is still instact :/
And out of the sudden, ''CPM S30V sanmai'' came into my mind. Lol

what happened to your knife has little to do with the steel (S30V) and almost everything to do with the blade's geometry. i own a para 2 and stabbing the blade into wood is something i wouldn't do, do you know why? because a knife with such a distal taper (how the blade thins as it approaches the tip) is extremely vulnerably to bending/breaking. if you want to stab wood with a knife, i can recommend some that will do a better job.
 
what happened to your knife has little to do with the steel (S30V) and almost everything to do with the blade's geometry. i own a para 2 and stabbing the blade into wood is something i wouldn't do, do you know why? because a knife with such a distal taper (how the blade thins as it approaches the tip) is extremely vulnerably to bending/breaking. if you want to stab wood with a knife, i can recommend some that will do a better job.

I see.. Anyway i didn't have a choice because it was the only knife i had with me at that time. Should have brought along my izula
 
You can probably bend the tip back somewhat in a vise if you do it carefully (and protecting the blade with something like rubber or leather). I suppose there is a risk of snapping the tip off if you are not careful.
 
I see.. Anyway i didn't have a choice because it was the only knife i had with me at that time. Should have brought along my izula

if you put the blade of the para 2 and izula together and look at the blade shapes, you'll see why the izula would be better at stabbing at wood.

if you are stabbing at wood with a knife like the para 2, you have to make sure you go in straight and come out straight to minimize damage. putting the knife in off angle or pulling it out off angle will greatly increase your chances of bending/breaking the tip.
 
Yeah stabbing into wood with a blade that has a distal taper isn't the best thing to do.

If one is going to use a knife for such things then a blade with a more reinforced point would be better.
 
S30V seems to chip if I look at it the wrong way. Go figure. I'm wondering by the way it chipped, seemed to break part of the edge off if I just have one really bad, thick wire edge.
 
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