Paracord wrapped handles.


RE: Talonite Gambler...

Yes, we enjoy pain around here
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avpshadowman

About the water in the cordwrap...a couple of options...First use 440C or similer...

The idea of coating the knife with superglue is a good one...epoxy works here as well...

We redid a cordwrap knife recently with some rust on the handle...We sandblast the rust off and paint it with the black moly we use and no more rust under the wrap...

I recommend using penetrating epoxy on cordwraps...This gives waterproofing to the cords, protects the metal, without getting hard or crusty white...but can be removed and replaced...

Running Dog


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Running Dog Knife Company
mmurphy@premier1.net

www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com
 
Nice knife Running Dog! I too want to cast my $0.02 vote for cord wraps, they work and can be very comfortable. Sometimes the low price option actually works best. I don't glue my cords down because I might want to take them off. They might also get damaged from being cut, or getting gunked up, or what ever, but they can be removed and redone, that's part of the reason I like them.
 
Thanks Matthew...

I just did a rewrap today on a japanese style work knife...I took some pictures and will post them in a little while...

If you soak some epoxy on the poly cord you will still be able to unwrap it...Just don't use more than the cord will soak-up...

I was interested in Cliff Stamp's comments about the performance of the cord wrap handle...

Concidering that the Japanese (for example) could have use anything available to them for knife and sword handles, they choose a silk cordwrap because it worked for them...

Works for me, as well
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Running Dog

------------------
Running Dog Knife Company
mmurphy@premier1.net

www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com
 
GREENJACKET,


Completely off topic.

Does Greenjacket mean what I think it does?

Perhaps before you became a "Business Consultant"?


Mike
 
Running Dog. What is trade name to the epoxy that you use?

Cliff Stamp. The Kraton on my very old Cold Steel Master Tanto is less taut than when new. It has taken the punishnent and shows a few scares. It has not torn, which was my main concern when I first bought it. The added give is only really noticable when a twisting action is used. Many of my knives' handles have dings, chips and scares. It is surprising what longavity they all have be natural or man made. When I have seen a handle fail it is usually more to do with how it was fixed in the first place.

MNH. Does fifteen years as a Rifleman in the 4th(V) Battalion The Royal Greenjackets answer your question? Business consultant- aren't we all? I love my shooting and am a rare breed in the UK for being a knife enthusiast - must be the Swiss in me. Presently, between adventures.
 
Greenjacket,

It does in deed answer my question. You sir have my admiration.


Mike
 
GREENJACKET:

The epoxy we use is called "Builders Epoxy" and was made by Titan, Lynnwood, Washington...

I say was because the company has moved out of state...

My partners brother worked with them...That how we found this product...

All you need is a thin penetrating epoxy...The lable will say for use with concrete, wood ect...

Just use enough to soak the cords...You can still remove it if you need to...

------------------
Running Dog Knife Company
mmurphy@premier1.net

www.runningdogknife.bigstep.com
 
Greenjacket :

The Kraton on my very old Cold Steel Master Tanto is less taut than when new. It has taken the punishnent and shows a few scares. It has not torn, which was my main concern when I first bought it. The added give is only really noticable when a twisting action is used.
Click to expand...

After a few months of use, the handles on the Trailmaster I had was worn and security had dropped significantly. It had not ripped but the checkering was very worn. As well, similar to what you noted the bonding was after weakening. I could grip the handle and twist my hand and move the Kraton. This was a problem with heavy use, chopping mainly, as the blade would remain fixed and the grip turn.

-Cliff
 
Thank you all for being so informative. It has been an education.

Maybe its time to post a new topic: Krayton pros and cons?
 
I like the cord wrapped handles (except I use braided nylon) soaked in epoxy because it gives a very secure grip even when coverd with fat , blood or sweat. I don't much care for the untreated cord because it soaks up blood or what ever you're cutting. It's hard to wash out without unwrapping the handle.
I've found that if you mix your epoxy and then thin it with alcolhol so it will penetrate the cord all the way to the handle you'll get good results. It's also very durable and easy to touch up.
I've included a few pics of the cord wrapped handles I've done. The top one is my very first attempt about 15 years ago for commerical fishing. Its shows the wear.
The next is a stiff kiss which is uncoated. The next is a double edged with blue coated epoxy that I didn't thin enough. The last is the brown braided double edge that I got just right. The blade is 1095 that I cold blued. These are working knives where a good grip is more important than looks. Give it a try.
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: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=306482&a=7024362


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Ray Carr

[This message has been edited by speedrck (edited 07-03-2000).]
 
The knife that had a bit of rust and was re-wrapped that Mike referred to was mine. It was in need of repair due to the rust and the previous cord coming off. This was NOT one of their knives, mind you, just a nice little handmade utility (K. Ward), that needed a bit of a makeover. The guys at Running Dog fixed it just fine. The cord wrap is much nicer than the previous one and feels nicer too.
Can't wait for the warncliffe they're making me (BG42, elk antler) to show up on my doorstep!! These guys do great work.
 
Running Dog - Thanks for the pics and instruction! You've made my day- er, ... month!

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Champions make improvements as fast as losers make excuses.
 
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