Parkerizing questions

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SteweysForge

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Mar 8, 2025
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Long time lurker here... usually I have found my answers by searching but I may be trying something new soon and have some questions I haven't really seen addressed. I have my first commissioned knife project, and he wanted a dark finish like the stonewashed blade I showed him I did. He wasn't sure about the stonewashed but did want it dark - so I was thinking about acid etch without the stonewashing. But I have heard this finish isn't very durable. One finish I am starting to explore is parkerizing which is said to be more durable. I went ahead and ordered some solution (manganese) plus the black pre-dip. Looking forward to trying it.

First question I have, I hear this finish 'holds oil very well'. I wonder, if one is going to epoxy scales on a parkerized blade, whats the best way to prep for glue up? Does epoxy need the parkerizing to be ground through to adhere properly? Or is degreasing it good enough? He wants a certain mosaic pin so I plan on gluing the scales and not screwing. Unfortunately I won't have time to do a lot of testing, the time table will be a bit tight on this commission, so trying to avoid any surprises. Also, would it be silly to try and tumble a parkerized blade in ceramic media to attempt a stonewashed appearance? Or would that kind of nullify the extra protection of parkerizing and instead just stick with ferric etch if he ultimately prefers stonewash?
 
I would never sell a full tang knife with handles that are only glued on.
 
Howdy folks, could anyone happen to tell me if epoxy sticks to parkerized finish or if I need to grind through it or some special prep? Or Is parkerizing not popular anymore? Seems that I've read its more durable than regular patina from like ferric etch, or cold bluing. I should have time later this week and next week to make and finish this blade. Thanks!
 
I think Parkerizing is more something a factory does although it is pretty cool. Not common with us smaller makers.

Can you wrap the blade and blast the handle area before glue up? I would not trust a glue bond over that sort of coating. It's probably fine.

No problem to stonewash, looks nice

I got the stuff to do it when I started making knives and never got to it, I forget why but I know everything has to be very clean, even finish.

I'm not really qualified to answer this stuff besides knowing it is uncommon in the custom world.
 
Before I glue scales, I hit the tang with two perpendicular passes on 36 grit ceramic belt per side, followed by acetone wipe. Takes seconds, and gives lots of rough surface to aid adhesion.
 
Thanks fellas. I have no problems roughing the tang back up but was worried about catching the edge and maybe having a bit of shiny metal visible after handle scale glue up. Maybe I could do it by hand or with something small like dremel and carefully avoid the last few mm near the edges.
 
SteweysForge said:
Thanks fellas. I have no problems roughing the tang back up but was worried about catching the edge and maybe having a bit of shiny metal visible after handle scale glue up. Maybe I could do it by hand or with something small like dremel and carefully avoid the last few mm near the edges.
Click to expand...

Use a small grinding wheel..stay inside the perimeter, like they do when initially grinding a taper tang.
 
I have had a few blades parkerized. I usually grind a hollow under the tang with a 40 or 60 grit belt if I'm using epoxy on the scales. I have a couple that I only cleaned with acetone and denatured alcohol before gluing and they haven't failed.

As far as the stone wash, I'm sure it would work. I would just use a cold black oxide treatment instead of park if you're looking for a black-ish stonewash finish.
This is black oxide from caswell that's been stonewashed.

1000010337_jpg-3695694.JPG

Park is quite a bit more durable.
 
My experience with parking is not from knife usage, so take it for what it's worth, but from many years of messing with rifles it's my experience that EVERYTHING will stick to parkerizing and stick well too, paint adheres to park way better than bare steel, it's an awesome primer coat. Epoxy too, have used JB Weld a fair bit with park underneath and paint on top.

EDIT: I don't think i'd use park for the top coat of a knife, it's rough looking and shows the slightest rub, just handling it for a few minutes would make it look wonky. I always top coat parked rifles.
 
It holds up fairly well. It will wear but it doesn't instantly look like crap the first time you use the knife, like a coated blade(think esee).
 
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