Parkerizing WIP

A C Richards

A C Richards

Joined
Apr 14, 2006
Messages
3,816
It was requested I do a WIP on my parkerizing process so here we go.

First I must give credit to Rodrigo Sfreddo for a WIP he did a while ago to get me into parkerizing.

The first thing you will need to do is purchase some black parkerizing solution. It can be found at most gunsmith suppliers or on the web. Get the Black parkerizing solution for this process. I got mine from Midway supply as it was the cheapest with shipping and processing I could find.

Follow the directions to mix the solution. I made up 2 gallons about a year ago and it will last me a couple more years. I still have about a half gallon of the concentrate left. It goes a long way when you are doing knife size projects.

Next prepare your material. I do not have any blades ready for the parkerizing tank so I am using an end off one of my old billets.

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I finished this one to 800 grit on the disc. It is not perfect but for this demonstration it worked fine. I normally do not finish past 600 but the 800 was handy and I threw it on the disc to finish it out.

Now etch deeply. Into the FCL she goes.

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Since this piece was not heat treated it took a long time to get the etch deep enough. I like to be able to feel it easily with my fingers.

Now we wait for the etch. If I am too bored I just go out back and watch the critters.

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Do your normal soak and scrub routine until it is deep enough for your taste. Here is the piece after I was finished.

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It is nice and deep but still have to get it into the right light in order to see the pattern clearly.

More to come
 
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While I was waiting for the etch to finish and between scrubbing, I cleaned up the stove top a bit and started the parkerizing bath warming up.

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And more waiting for it to heat up

Almost there
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I like to get mine up to 200f. The action is a bit more aggressive than at the low end of 175f.

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now were cooking

Now make sure the piece is clean and degreased. They sell a PRE-Black solution but I found out it was just hydrochloric acid and does the same thing that the FCL does so I do not use it. If it makes you feel better go ahead, I just don't find a need. I do however make sure the FCL is neutralized as I do not know what the effect it has on the solution. Now into the tank

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You will see a cloud of small bubbles coming off the blade. I leave it in the solution until it stops bubbling. Normally no more than 5 minutes or so. More waiting so More animal watching.

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After the piece stops bubbling pull it out and take a look. It will be covered with the parkerizing an will be a dark grey black color.

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Next I start with 1500 or 2000 grit wet dry backed up with a hard flat surface and sand off the parkerizing on the peaks.

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I normally have the blade held in the knife vise but this piece does not lend itself to that so I did it on a piece of granite.

Here is what the first scrub looks like.

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It really brings out the pattern. I repeat the process until I get the look I desire.

More in a bit
 
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After about 10 soaks and scrubs and a finer grit sandpaper, 2500 then finish with 3000. I have what I am looking for.

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It has a really nice contrast and the whole thing is almost polished out. You can see your reflection on the surface. The color is not that golden hugh seen in the photo but bright and shiny. The gold color is coming from the under side of the self above the piece. That is how polished it is. The surface is almost smooth. If I really wanted I could bring it up to a really smooth surface in another 5 or so cycles. It takes a bit of time for what I am looking for but I feel it is well worth the effort. You can stop at any point along the way after the first soak if you want. I just like the deeper parkerizing. Play with it and you will not be sorry.

Good luck
 
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One thing I forgot to mention. DO NOT turn off the heat and leave the blade to soak over night. It causes pitting and messes the whole finish up. DOn't ask how I know that :mad:
 
Chuck, Thanks so much. I really do like the way it came out and cant wait to get some parkerizing solution. Thanks again!
 
That's some great info, Chuck. Though it sounds somewhat familiar;). He shared all these great tid bits with me this morning. Thanks again.
 
Nice! Thanks Chuck...

If only I knew someone who'd teach me to make damascus....:rolleyes:;)

I know, I know.... stick with 1084, don't get distracted by Hamons, Damascus etc.....squirrel....

I'll just bookmark this now...:thumbup:
 
SQUIRREL???

I deal with A-D-D.... attention deficit----LOOK A SQUIRREL!!!!! :D

Thank you Chuck!!! I've been wanting to try this for a long time... this was just the boost of confidence and motivation I needed! :)

MUCH APPRECIATED!!! :)
 
An old thread I know, but I wanted to say that i needed the info, just read this, and couldn't have asked for a better tutorial! Thanks Chuck! Gotta love the forums.
 
200f might soften the epoxy a bit. I would hold the blade in the hot solution. It only takes a few minutes. I have redone a blade on a fully glued up knife. Not how I prefer, that is the benefit of a take down.
 
Also be aware you need to kill the solution. It can rust the blade if left on. So if you are getting the paracord wet with the solution it might cause a problem later. I kill it with windex like FLC and then douse it with a good oil.
 
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