Park's #50 owners

[Sam Salvati]

OK, so business seems good for Patrick, and it also looks like quite a few people have purchased Park's #50 from him. So to you brand new owners, have you used it yet?! What are your perceptions? Do you like it? Have you seen any improvements or detriments to performance? How are you using it IE edge quenching, full quenching, quenching clay coated blades?

 

[jdm61]

OK, so business seems good for Patrick, and it also looks like quite a few people have purchased Park's #50 from him. So to you brand new owners, have you used it yet?! What are your perceptions? Do you like it? Have you seen any improvements or detriments to performance? How are you using it IE edge quenching, full quenching, quenching clay coated blades?

I works great. I full quench.

 

[micad]

I've used ATF for many years and thought I was getting great results. After using Parks #50, I now know that I was only getting mediocre results.
Haven't tried it for anything but full quenching.
Comapred to ATF, this stuff rocks!

My response applies only to my use with 1084 and 1095.

-Mike-

 

[Dan Seaver]

I clay coat blades and do full quenches. Me and my buddies have made a few knives with it and are happy with the results. It washes off the knives easier than other oils that I have used; between that and the lack of smell it makes an ideal quench medium when you temper in your kitchen oven.

 

[Kevin R. Cashen]

I am sure Sam was asking and not suggesting that anybody edge quench in the #50. You have a pretty good investment in that oil, depending on where you got it, I just want to give you all a very good tip on preserving that investment- avoid edge quenching into it. Edge quenching very often results in flashing and flaming the oil, this is not good for any decent quench oil. If you want to differential harden, the clay coated full quench is the way to go with this stuff, as long as you are certain to clean out the clay particles every so often.

 

[me2]

Is this oil too fast to get a differential hardening on thick stock (1/4" or greater) ground full flat?

 

[deker]

Is this oil too fast to get a differential hardening on thick stock (1/4" or greater) ground full flat?

I've seen it happen spontaneously, but you REALLY have to be on top of your temperature control. As Kevin said, if you're looking to differentially harden your blades in Parks #50, clay them up.

-d

 

[Sam Salvati]

I am sure Sam was asking and not suggesting that anybody edge quench in the #50. You have a pretty good investment in that oil, depending on where you got it, I just want to give you all a very good tip on preserving that investment- avoid edge quenching into it. Edge quenching very often results in flashing and flaming the oil, this is not good for any decent quench oil. If you want to differential harden, the clay coated full quench is the way to go with this stuff, as long as you are certain to clean out the clay particles every so often.

Correct, I was asking just how people are using it so in case they might be edge quenching and wondering why things might be going wrong then there would be good input as to how to fix the problem, and take good care of your oil. Quench oil is like any other tool, use it improperly and it will damage it, take care of it and it will take care of you.