Partial Full Tang

[Kevin McGovern]

I have a request from my church to provide a knife for a silent auction. I've done this with them several times and kitchen knives bring the most interest. With the move of my shop to the new space, I don't think I can get a blade heat treated in time. I have a perfectly serviceable blade with one problem, the butt is snapped off. It is similar to the blade in my signature below, the butt is broken off about 2" from the end. I am looking for technical as well as design advice, so pictures of any work of this type is welcome. My initial thought is to do a set of full size scales with G-10 backers and then a spacer to fill the gap in the end of either the same G-10 or maybe something contrasting (G-10 or maybe copper). The best way to construct this in a strong and eye pleasing manner would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

It is calle a partial tang, or a half tang. The handle has a slot cut part way through it for the tang to go into from the bottom. The slot matches the tang width. A couple rivets and some epoxy hold it all together. The tang is then ground flush with the bottom inthe final handle shaping. The important thing is to cut the slot in the handle block first, then shape everything from there.

A simple alternative is a three piece handle. Make a thin spacer of wood the thickness of the tang, and split the main handle block into scales. The spacer wood can be from the same block, or contrasting. Assemble with the spacer between the scales and above the tang. Done right in wood from the same block, you probably won't be able to find the joint. In contrasting wood, it is a nice accent. The three piece handle makes everything fit perfect and allows perfectly placed rivet holes.

I really recommend strong rivets when doing this type handle. Small Corbys work well.

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Thanks Stacy!