Patina, oxidation removal reduction

donnord

donnord

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Dec 22, 2007
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I have this Ralph Bone knife on the the way. Based on the sellers pics it has considerable oxidation on the blade. I cant really tell from the pics but there is likely some pitting. I am not really interested in sanding the pits to get rid of them as I don't want to risk ruining the blade. I intend for this knife to be a user. I did quite a bit of reading on here and elsewhere. Some say Bar Keepers Friend, 0000 steel wool and oil, etc. Many of the posts are a few years old, most likely not much has changed. I would appreciate any advise y'all may have. Thanks.

RBone6.jpeg
 
I doubt steel wool, oil, Barkeeper's friend will do much at all.
If you want the staining and pits removed, you have to take metal off until they are gone.
 
In your position, I suppose I would kill the edge, then go to it with 80 grit sandpaper until I saw shiny metal everywhere, then move up the grits to get the scratches out. I like using it wet, it keeps the metal out of your lungs and seems to work faster.

There may be a better way, this is just the one I know. The good news is that I don't see, in this picture, pitting with depth, except near the handle.
 
If it's going to be a user, I'd just leave it. The damage is done at this point. Is there a reason you need to remove it?
 
80 grit sandpaper should never be near any knife! Lordy! 320-400 grit at the heaviest.
 
I would advise that you not keep the knife in the sheath. I'm guessing that's how the blade got that way.
 
As a user, I'd just leave it be. If there's not any red / brown discoloration indicating active rusting, then no additional harm is being done. As mentioned, the only way to reduce the pitting is to sand or grind a lot of steel off, to the full depth of the pitting. And if the knife is to be used regularly, that alone will help you see quickly if any corrosion is happening, so you can stay ahead of it. That's where the steel wool & a little bit of oil will be handy in scrubbing off the rust. Can also scrub with baking soda, to dislodge red / brown rust. And don't store the knife in the sheath - it'll trap moisture & any other dirt & corrosives against the blade.
 
It will be a user, but it will be my user so I would like to look a little better. I am hoping the pitting is not too bad. I agree it was left in the sheath, the other side is not as bad. I will try to document how it goes. I am not against taking wet/dry to it if need be. No dremels or sanders though as I am not that confident in my skills, yet.
 
anthonycastorena2014 said:
Exactly this. I would use a buffing attachment and a power drill. Use either Fitz or Case Paste. It will look loads better and won't take 10 years like sanding from low all the way to find grit wil. I would like to see "after" photos.
Click to expand...
I thought the sheath looked well made too. Better than a couple of my newer Randall sheaths as far as stitching goes. Bone only made kit knives for about and year in 1974 I think, and did not sell many of them, so this maybe a Johnson sheath but I do not know how to tell.
Here is a pic of the other side of the blade and the sheath. The snap is broken, but I have fixed those before so thats not a big concern to me. The other side of the blade in nowhere near as bad. These are not my pics however, they are the sellers pics that I copied. I am going to Fitz the hell out of it after I clean it. Time is something I have plenty of so if it takes awhile so be it. At least the edge appears to be close to original.

RBone2.jpeg
 
donnord said:
I thought the sheath looked well made too. Better than a couple of my newer Randall sheaths as far as stitching goes. Bone only made kit knives for about and year in 1974 I think, and did not sell many of them, so this maybe a Johnson sheath but I do not know how to tell.
Here is a pic of the other side of the blade and the sheath. The snap is broken, but I have fixed those before so thats not a big concern to me. The other side of the blade in nowhere near as bad. These are not my pics however, they are the sellers pics that I copied. I am going to Fitz the hell out of it after I clean it. Time is something I have plenty of so if it takes awhile so be it. At least the edge appears to be close to original.

View attachment 1944444
Click to expand...

Looks alot better 👌 The polishing attachments for a drill were something like $10 for a 5 pack on Amazon.
 
Flitz won't do much at all- even on a drill.
The blade will have to be refinished. This involves sanding the pits out using the proper backing for the sandpaper(s), and finally polishing on professional equipment.
 
Well, you rather clearly stated in your OP that you were not interested in removing the pits.

So, Naval Jelly is a good rust remover which might get into the pits. Follow with Scotchbrite if you don't mind the finish. Wrapping it in vinegar soaked napkins and letting it dry will give it a patina and convert shallow rust to the patina. Then that is fairly easily removed.

I've had similar projects. I used Naval Jelly followed by a vinegar patina. The patina will help protect against further rust as well, since further rust will happen more readily in rough areas like the pitting.

It's nice to have a decent knife which you have brought back to usefulness but not necessarily beauty. Makes a solid, workingman's carrier.
 
I received the knife yesterday, its not nearly as bad as I thought. If it was not stored in the sheath I think would be near mint condition. Its fairly sharp, the edge appears to be original. I did have to take 600/1000/1200/1500 grit wd paper to it, then Never dull and flitz polish. That helped the discoloration quite a bit. There is minor pitting where the oxidation was I would guess its .001-.003 deep if that. I can't feel it but can see it under magnification. I'll post a picture or 2 later today when the sun comes up. If it was a classic car I would say at this point its a 50 footer. Before I go much further I need to practice hand sanding on a different blade that I can goof up without much worry.
*A tip for fellow tinkerers, I used a Dremel and a small buffing wheel at the end to add some luster but the buffers are old and would not spin well. So I thought I'll use some CA glue to hold the buffing in place. I used the 1-3 sec stuff, waited about a minute and got to work with the flitz on the wheel. Well I ended up with a mixture of green flitz and CA all over the handle and blade. Fortunately acetone got rid of it.
I like naval jelly too but I didn't really need it here.
 
You have a valuable knife. Don't use Naval Jelly on it-it etches the steel.
 
Agree completely. BTW I decided to use 220 grit to remove the spots on the bad side, which was faster, now to work my way back up. The first foray with the 600 to start was not sufficient. Even at 220 those spots are stubborn! I am up to 400 now after an hour at 220. The knife is worth the effort though. I think I will leave the good side alone.
 
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