Patina time

chiral.grolim said:
Re: a patina on 3V, it's not so easy given the chromium content. I'll run an experiment for you on my old GSO-10 in 3V with the industry standard HT and stonewash, but here are pics from a vinegar bath of my low-temper 3V w/ peened-finish GSO-5.1:

3WjzhOZOtMDaLvSL7LjkNBlKB3_Kb_Rw3Jv5NtyMqqNJp9rKTHRgaEDjQRhXO5y84hQGkpWPqlrfhDKzVU8FJovEQYBSOdp6cMbvSJG21vObRovwKN-j2Q17Y-lVkLKmS7xoVGGxunBa4CWPE0KjqPLpCdC4ygtlI-EuVGOrRnE0pnwMKZZSjIgSKL-gSoK1ADMVKZknfZpGbiP7LpSDJvlek6RF40SjbBsSEX21gOAvDXh5tKh4D_s5-eOiS5fHQbuUKTHNvDX9TzN_kDSxVLfzXuCvsCEA2TDKayGu0IZhzy3Z3mDVDmiCSsTItX93Jl5X85kAo2gYsZ_tAxtXrUiBzgxsmoHcdj5sg2YBGxQzb66ZdDS0vIYAkLFpnix43pDHxtkWJCEpaV9M_jTXoLKc9ZwS8d0hWLovNng3aNs7M8KjWoIERYRgGxXIrE7Bs94ym8UGcIC1rBOoMrVXjy4qNIaFhbMZkbcKHc_KYxCZCtzYYbryaw8lQEcWdoz5uyjU2pMt7KyhHjEOeycBhIE5aaSlM9h1cXZarjA25BTCrAdf52dHmKFOjvzKvzsgkk-ZsaJcjG4X_aBxhRrKpc0F7KAZGS3wAelE0uwPhE8-Dt6_NBRYP8kbJuPMsGBc3rArK4eJSAccV19tpZs-9SrHzZnCxMoEkLwe0eTOvq-8Mg=w455-h808-no
NJWTjum_Gfe8VZ2Xg6TCbOh8Su1XUil-3y4W_9c9qiWyHFp4Ch8UVEE_qShfCYyPwZGQeUB2EIC5x09Mqwv35YE6IXolgh7EWAK64jewhk0T7Qn1hnlm_GOgH0ZAWa0f097oOIZX_dh_9BHMVOKlVO7Ss8YH3tD4zw8XypVjNvaZ_D2BMWTlC9d7zNboFYNsULN43r3B93CY37Rm8qjrBd2r4R-Q4EyLFzis2zxcaoBQfLA6ICdjvwoGEsupAMCtyluTudqewghTZRhf9juDfh0lp3EKZIdVPAeGiuoN8nixwD3tFlr0HT81Rh5Fsfp0r6YegBBfZxloKPXsgfC8vUi-Y3dG22CVsyX9KEyTSGU_9tMt2yErCb4CzTFClSi1XGL8r3fiWVKoBxHCdeFzbYqLKBpQDd2MjidvPgbCeV6eaaq9tO99PyWRW1spkr8feEk49hE1stjKAejwJWp3WK63_GfcgpzfNyJD61fgOYc-tmTfUc_2SEK1myjj5x8JN18PfnZbMrclRd7icIOcr-DSQuTwU3wvTkvDk7tGdW64-9D-fWGAIaWU_He6cVDsijlUiLmMfS3xatZX3A58FELW1zmiujrHsjCtErw6rkY9W8L_dLn_R7EmHA6qnzRunb-A3SelAp29IlGM-xyWafUSGIMtZZXRHQ6FE00YYDiRSQ=w455-h808-no
qGF6FVRPdK2Nc_7iQMh6GMXvQFHuN9_YYdcrviIC160tQ2Upi_XQyKrthYvH_BeCB1TytajXHf_idSfonXLFM7_bR-z-dl15-vyN_E8HLWieECaOsh4dEItcXWSWTfp6pTlGSaveD1zMRvXZ11by3yDmXWQz5bJJ6nucNB0KVm-eocHzQEfoOnUI3prF6LzZDHWGifAUQYi1e1n8oParo3acoUaO0_cgr3zMMq7lxGm3SO1-aajCt9t2yhgchDRX_QaQubcn-R6_o7OAHR3P2BZlatuK9K0zcqmuGkpNMHLE8jYzIXHwkCo3U0MNjxx8dH_9ABbgpLzhH4IXkH_eHXdaaYvrqTz5cBNKqER4iUuwePJtXRHkku_fzOBTGz1RsNgkyTA-t7su0arVxwgVFro2MhAj0vnKjNI-3MXP9-xYKZuC1zJj3BxkbA41uvvMoHmir9unHbPSyUon0ORbq4NkV0D-SoUL5HHQci1cro6UMKS13Z3unw3BJAq8rXrdEbXaQn_k6dDb9bZIGEeNB9w22jxDKaD2R1miprrjEjba9rQMTg7l34oKldlW78ofe4jEv2kGPNE5lcroum9ko_xHlBLsP5g5-X-Q5ESoqysOYzIcKpaB419AwWK9kEh_zvJopEuQY-j9Jmu-5e-K_PV_d7bD2Qxd76jCn7H8bD7M8w=w1160-h653-no
1qwZFqr3Loy-RU6oYM-DM1btUT4qo-2re_U5DyMabKbzEcPpGtj6STjgwpufgswx-YAL6sBD-GJSAAXHYyfj2gSFY-Z7gkUHjKjM27cyRfugGO7amBeThtcfY_FyLWbUvk7d2As9OuUvUkgyHqBHnDAXBuFGpaxZnRrCmzZXkBn29jy728lx3cVJ32RIPo5x672wwsjPm9bc8mKMFVg0I0KHA4dQFUygjeraRe2tu9N9d166pjL9MXxCGbKOTaHFZ3W-4_SIv3pNkmWfL_sgiMiwlEm1ZQlI9NMQIX7k3dB1txi7DBOs181SqGKMrO1iqNWg8oFhCqyXRK2Jj6WmGGHTVt2hmLaDFenb_J0mbd6zZvFEf5EbLfIRpIsCsuxNpKI60QFAehuXaxTXaj2aDZDPYMhJfu4i0F1WzoXke28jhqzOSg6BqSlIs7i9Ar39ktKm8Heb0wlEUtYkC7Z6fWq2stJn6T-gIFZOCEluhMhcbnVOgQMrywlNHhIfNfXfne09ztJF4jqO8f8BEJqiyjhijwwpg4opwLf-EQkoN7EAzflCiEtZJOq_cYqPFJVa00oTnG2CrrSyLic7Pazcnjv9xesKlgv1odleubH9YgBvO0gtswSOBuKLLrRVGyzl4uAJa4EGGPNm00G0kustMA3ykWnqSqlGRioLNhabR6LEBw=w455-h808-no


Can you see the line of division? That's where the surface of the vinegar was contacting the blade, everything toward the edge from that line was completely submerged. Here is what 1095CV on a stripped BK16 looked like after sharing that bath, again looking at the line and what is below it and granting that the Becker already had a slight patina present:

M7hnFZL9O3DHbBNvTK3EN3hQCs0kSjWpJFhLmBGlphfD8rLeB0ydN1rze125a8y46hItPBEdpc5XlMB4nuB_ThgPK-_SXUVNfSIAWuXeg-CY2cb3rbP_gXt9NYiSsTQflrBmMD0NS7PMH2aJToYKy69JytVQ4cU7JOXV8LeNLyttmAJa_rjqE0UEhImGIBgDSjTZd67unXw2mn5y3FPAYkukWHhQkCkv_CldMBmJ6gMjyRCLyfdpb6QTibbjoeCNIn7c0gUVDc_xay4t2AJwl4HAiDkuMlyZ_CLUU-dz77bMg9noEAi6dDtA3gMDljjVERHspHAVr6jSsXdwPotN01Pcf6oAsE5ov1vw2a6hAdZDi9d6a_w_EpC7S2k1sRFrbBm2yE8VnnHLdyCxJj0u7FyVu6hmFJu7Gt5O5h-TszBgavsrDrovv_hdULfa1wb3yU7ZOO-T2P9-Quk12QY39Vhzjtm6lgRmwiDbGCC_zqD_5Mw6Y0GEzFDAXl9AOIbB8PvgDpnjqsjkqXReU01QkF2d6NIpjPB1NQuV4yS7kErjoi-IVqGryf_s8D_P1ykY8wlJK9f-8WlnFM-wYuaOSUBhCfv7BQFOhNWz4k17kxGcfiKv2-Y8Way7SCkgoUrK3qDc-Ht_HYyHoI4DfYKG88f5DvRN8Hdc58El0kd3IZF7lw=w455-h808-no



Speaking of the topic, didn't you already try this back in 2014? I seem to recall you asking about putting a patina on a stonewashed 3V blade back then too...
Click to expand...
Hey Chiral and Craytab - the answer is no, I've not forced a patina on 3V. Well, maybe, I'm getting up there and I don't have all my marbles I used to. I blame it on the 70's.....err, what I remember of them.
To whoever said, why even put a patina on 3V? Because I want her looking as old and crusty as I do. Wouldn't look right for me to be strutting around with no young thing. I want her to show some age like her ol man!
 
I have actually been able to force a light patina on a stainless steel blade before by leaving it overnight in a cup of lemon juice. ( Had Vaseline on the edge so it wouldn't get dulled ) don't remember the details but I was led to believe this cheap knife was 1095, so I wanted to force a patina on it.


Now if I was able to do this to a stainless steel knife ( sharpens like a maybe 7cr ) overnight in just a cup of lemon juice, then I would think there'd have to be a simple way to patina 3v which I'm to understand is a form of carbon steel.
Has anyone ever tried something like a hot vinegar bath on a 3v blade ?
 
Kootaga13 said:
Hey Chiral and Craytab - the answer is no, I've not forced a patina on 3V. Well, maybe, I'm getting up there and I don't have all my marbles I used to. I blame it on the 70's.....err, what I remember of them.
To whoever said, why even put a patina on 3V? Because I want her looking as old and crusty as I do. Wouldn't look right for me to be strutting around with no young thing. I want her to show some age like her ol man!
Click to expand...
Yes, we knew you hadn't put a patina on 3v before. Just beat the snot out of the thing. It will get some character.
 
I've used one of my 3v knives on both hot and refrigerated chicken (raw & cooked) with no resulting patina.

This knife has also seen oodles of outdoor adventure times on a myriad of tasks (and sometimes even put away in a leather sheath not fully dry or cleaned off :eek:) and still looks about the same stain-wise as when I got it a couple years ago.

IMG_20170906_171108156.jpg

In my experience, compared to things like 1095, m4, or super blue etc, patina prone it is not.
 
trevitrace said:
I've used one of my 3v knives on both hot and refrigerated chicken (raw & cooked) with no resulting patina.

This knife has also seen oodles of outdoor adventure times on a myriad of tasks (and sometimes even put away in a leather sheath not fully dry or cleaned off :eek:) and still looks about the same stain-wise as when I got it a couple years ago.

View attachment 761347

In my experience, compared to things like 1095, m4, or super blue etc, patina prone it is not.
Click to expand...
That there's a sweet knife. Patina or not.

Craytab - you can't beat character. In the knife and it's owner. They call me Uncle Timbo at work. Maybe I'll change my name here.

Alright you all, let's get serious. This maker I'm going with, we go a way's back. He offers 01 and 3V. I realize I could go anywhere and get anything but I want 3V over 01 which I realize would take a patina all the way to NOKO and back. That's not the point. The point is this....knowing I'm having my first ever Kephart made for me. Knowing I like 3V. Know I like a patina. Knowing my dude can offer the knife in two finishes, stone wash and slightly polished.
What should I do?
If you remember, my original question was, will 3V with a stone wash finish accept a patina?
Or should I just go with the regular finish and old school the thing?
 
Dang Jonny, what'd you do to that Becker?

Doctor Chiral. Doctor Chiral. To the workbench.....STAT!
 
Kootaga13 said:
That there's a sweet knife. Patina or not.

Craytab - you can't beat character. In the knife and it's owner. They call me Uncle Timbo at work. Maybe I'll change my name here.

Alright you all, let's get serious. This maker I'm going with, we go a way's back. He offers 01 and 3V. I realize I could go anywhere and get anything but I want 3V over 01 which I realize would take a patina all the way to NOKO and back. That's not the point. The point is this....knowing I'm having my first ever Kephart made for me. Knowing I like 3V. Know I like a patina. Knowing my dude can offer the knife in two finishes, stone wash and slightly polished.
What should I do?
If you remember, my original question was, will 3V with a stone wash finish accept a patina?
Or should I just go with the regular finish and old school the thing?
Click to expand...

Based on the info provided, it would appear that forcing a patina on 3v is going to be way more trouble than it is worth, at least in my opinion. I have only done a forced a patina on a coupe of blades and they were just 1095, super easy to do. 3v is a whole different ball game...

In regards to finish though, I have a preference for stonewashed and I think your knife would look fantastic with that sort of finish. That paired with the marks and character that only good hard use can imbue will make for a blade that even good 'ol Horace could smile at.
 
Thanks Padruig. I tried D2 once by various methods. Never again. That crap's like Kryptonite.
One thing about stone wash, you never have to fiddle around with wiping off smudge marks or fingerprints.
 
Kootaga13 said:
If you remember, my original question was, will 3V with a stone wash finish accept a patina?
Or should I just go with the regular finish and old school the thing?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately my only 3V blade at the moment is that 5.1... my gut wants to say that a "slightly polished" finish would be better for forcing a patina on a corrosion-prone blade, but I haven't done any comparisons between the two... How soon do you need an answer?

Better yet, would the maker be willing to run the test? A patina is just a surface finish that he could easily buff away and replace if he is able to provide stonewash or slightly-polished (satin?) finishes himself... I'd suggest he start with a slightly polished blade and let you know the results. Is that something he might be willing to do?
 
chiral.grolim said:
Unfortunately my only 3V blade at the moment is that 5.1... my gut wants to say that a "slightly polished" finish would be better for forcing a patina on a corrosion-prone blade, but I haven't done any comparisons between the two... How soon do you need an answer?

Better yet, would the maker be willing to run the test? A patina is just a surface finish that he could easily buff away and replace if he is able to provide stonewash or slightly-polished (satin?) finishes himself... I'd suggest he start with a slightly polished blade and let you know the results. Is that something he might be willing to do?
Click to expand...

GREAT point my brother, all I can do is ask.
Here's a thought, I've never done it, but would gun blueing work on 3V or would it look fakey/jakey?
 
I have access to muriatic, acetic, nitric and sulphuric acids at my work. I don't want to put any of it on my 3v blade though. Maybe Chiral will let his knife be the guinea pig! lol
 
Which one? The bk20 or the bk5? The bk20 is green wood juices causing that patina. I can't remember what I used on the bk5. Mustard with a couple drops of Birchwood Casey I think....
 
Chiral, I've been reading (your links) about blueing and acids. Unless I have the steps laid out for me,
1.
2.
3.
I'd screw up a good knife.
 
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Based on right now, bedtime, it's looking like stonewashed 3V.
After a cup or two of coffee in the morning, who knows?
 
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