Patina

For me patina has its place, not on a collection piece unless it's very old and the value of the piece is due to its age and rarity. For a daily use knife I like it on some not on others. So for me it depends entirely on the piece it is on.

Chris
 
Hi Don, and others, what do you use to protect the carbon steel spring of slip joints from hand sweat? I did my first and i'm little concerned to get rust between the liners and the spring
any suggestion appreciated.
As for the patina i believe the best is the one that forms very slowly in between cleaning during the years.
 
So....for those who like patina

Do you ever apply one to your stainless blades on purpose?:eek:

I have some knives with patina.... it is there because I tapped out to it when it was just to much of a pain trying to keep it off the users.

On my collectible blades that are high carbon...I keep those things clean and polished to never give a patina a chance.

My little Kozuka of 01 gets used for everything.....it has a patina....but I like it better when it does not.
 
Lycosa said:
How 'bout a pic, Adam?
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One ugly pict coming up. :)

xnl6TJS.jpg




Looking at that dirty little monster I thought I will throw up a pict of similar knife I am making right now for comparison....NO Patina

SKkvOVv.jpg
 
stezann said:
Hi Don, and others, what do you use to protect the carbon steel spring of slip joints from hand sweat? I did my first and i'm little concerned to get rust between the liners and the spring
any suggestion appreciated.
As for the patina i believe the best is the one that forms very slowly in between cleaning during the years.
Click to expand...

I've been carrying carbon steel slipjoints everyday since I was around 7 years old and rust has never been an issue. That's 46 years. I have rarely oiled blades and springs and they just turn dark with time. The darker they get the better they look to me.
 
Thanks Don, that sounds promising! I'm very fond of w2, 52100 and carbon steels in general; now that i started the slipjoint journey, seeing everyone using stainless/semistainless i was afraid to be forced to the "bright side" LOL
My first is done, let's see how it will grow old :) Just to be on the safe side when i oiled the pivot i managed to smear also the spring and the whole assembly
Have a nice day

Stefano
 
the patina helps to tell the story of the knife so I generally like them. They can also get too gross though and require scotchbrite.
 
ISKski said:
It is important to note though that I much prefer carbon steel and the only stainless steel I feel acts like carbon but is stainless is AEB-L... could have all my knives in that blade steel...
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I was wondering if this would come up. STeven, what is your opinion of AEB-L? I use it often for the same reason as ISK. It has minimal carbide volume, and in my experience takes a very fine edge, has excellent edge stability, and is easy to sharpen. I'd be delighted to hear anyone else's experience/thoughts as well.
 
Patina on my safe queens? No way. Patina on my working knives? Couldn't care less.
 
RogerP said:
Patina on my safe queens? No way. Patina on my working knives? Couldn't care less.
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Ditto.

I use several of my customs, kitchen included. If I buy one thinking it might be used, it will be carbon steel. Only exception would be a custom fillet knife.

- Joe
 
stezann said:
Hi Don, and others, what do you use to protect the carbon steel spring of slip joints from hand sweat? I did my first and i'm little concerned to get rust between the liners and the spring
any suggestion appreciated.
As for the patina i believe the best is the one that forms very slowly in between cleaning during the years.
Click to expand...

For my Sunfish Forge O1 blade, I shine it up after a few days of use with flitz and put on Buck honing oil (it's handy). The part with the dark spots, patina and sometimes rust is the inner side of the spring. I believe active rust on the spring is why I got a good deal on it. After carefully removing the rust, routinely oiling the joint and blade, then wiping off the oil with a small piece paper, I fold the oil soaked paper and rub it down the inner side of the spring. No more active rust, ever again and I use the blade every place and wash it off after use with food. The inner side of the spring has a full patina and the old rust are all black spots, but the blade is returned to shiny glory every few days...don't carry no ugly knife :)

I have seen active rust appear on the inner sides of carbon steel springs during storage, but never with a routine wipe down with oil.
 
Shawn Hatcher said:
I was wondering if this would come up. STeven, what is your opinion of AEB-L? I use it often for the same reason as ISK. It has minimal carbide volume, and in my experience takes a very fine edge, has excellent edge stability, and is easy to sharpen. I'd be delighted to hear anyone else's experience/thoughts as well.
Click to expand...

I love AEB-L....and a whole lot of other fine stainless steels. A lot depends upon the maker and their skill in heat treat and finishing.

John W. Smith made a knife for me about 10 years ago with S30V, no chipping, held an edge forever, one of the GREAT EDC knives out of hundreds that I have carried. Have had some S30V that was chippy and impossible to sharpen.

Many sing the praises of ZDP, but I have never had a good experience with it, rust and edge chipping.

Have some kitchen knives in S90V that helped defined what a good kitchen knife is to me, no problems.

My only absolute at this time is a universal dislike of patina, and those who think that the dings on a knife tell a story? I have some beans to sell you...cheap!!, lol.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Probably i won't buy a knife with "dings" representing other's stories, but i could certanly be happy if when i grow old i'd find some personal ding on my old edged pal, wich remind me of the good old days, LOL ;)
 
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