Paul Long Sheaths - Fisk NLTs

Beautiful knives and sheaths --- thanks for the pics. Paul's work is amazing.
 
Kevin,
Thank you for explaining, that Jerry often entrusts the leather work to Paul. This answers my question fully.

I've got one more itching question, which is totally out of place here regarding sheath-work, but need to ask, curiosity.

What is typically done on the inside areas Where blade will rest , treating the leather, coating, finishing, waxing? I have seen some variation with this. (Some left "white", appearing untreated. And others having the appearance they have had some "treatment", whatever it is, or may do- i imagine it can help with the rust issue,( a waxed treatment?), preventing some measure of blade contact w/ oils or leaking of tannins from the leather? )

--this issue/question does not pertain to Paul's work, I apologize for mentioning it here.
David
 
David, I realize you ask the question of Kevin, but since He doesn't regularly do any leather work, perhaps I can be of help.

I can tell what I do on the interior which is nothing other than a complete lining using deer skin. I have only been specializing in sheaths for just under three years, but I have had no reports of any rusting or discoloring issues in any of my lined sheaths. In that same period there have been something over 1200 sheaths delivered and the lack of any report of rust or problems causes me to think that there are no problems with the use of deer skin.

If a sheath becomes thoroughly soaked (my sheath or anyone else's sheath), it should have the knife removed as soon as possible and then it should be air dried, ideally under cirulating air such as a fan. An oven or other artificial heat is not recommended. If the sheath is not dried properly and completely then I guarantee rust or rust related problems will be a fact.

I have talked to other makers whoe use a blend of bees wax, pitch etc. in an effort to waterproof the sheath inside. Assuming that the potion is successful, and also assuming that any sheath in use is subject to being either rained on or fall in the river or whatever, then I question the wisdom of having made it an absolute water holding vessel like a glass or cup.

Water introduced to the outside of my sheaths must first soak through the outside leather and then it hits a real barrier in the form of contact cement holding the lining in place and the incidence of it coming through outside to inside is remote.

The real answer to the problem lies more in the hands of the sheath owner than the maker, and fortunately most people tend to really take pretty good care of their gear making sure it is stored dry and clean.

Paul
 
2knife said:
Kevin,
Thank you for explaining, that Jerry often entrusts the leather work to Paul. This answers my question fully.

I've got one more itching question, which is totally out of place here regarding sheath-work, but need to ask, curiosity.

What is typically done on the inside areas Where blade will rest , treating the leather, coating, finishing, waxing? I have seen some variation with this. (Some left "white", appearing untreated. And others having the appearance they have had some "treatment", whatever it is, or may do- i imagine it can help with the rust issue,( a waxed treatment?), preventing some measure of blade contact w/ oils or leaking of tannins from the leather? )

--this issue/question does not pertain to Paul's work, I apologize for mentioning it here.
David
Click to expand...

Don't know how often Jerry has had Paul make sheaths. I know he has used him and Paul is invited to Jerry's Micro Show this fall.

IMO, Paul's quick turn around time would really interest makers in addition to his superb ability. I would think that waiting weeks for a sheathmaker to produce a sheath would be problematic for a knifemaker and even more so to the collector who may have been waiting for years for the knife.
 
Thank you for answering my questions, Paul and Kevin. Paul, it is an honor to be able to hear about your methods and thoughts. Your expertise shows!
(One more reason to visit Bladeforums often!)

Kevin,
Congratulations, on these masterfully crafted sets. Would love to see a profile-photo of each knife (sheathed), just to top off the experience. :)Thanks,
David
 
As my first sheath for the stag handle Southwest bowie was eaten by my dog, we decided to change the second a bit.

100_0467.jpg


100_0466.jpg
 
Kevin,
I passed a lady on the beach this weekend. Her dog was wearing what she referred to as a "torture collar". She told me she occasionally needed to zap her dog. bzzzing!
David
 
For those of you who may be interested, one of the changes in this sheath was a departure from the use of deer skin as a full lining. Using the same leather as the rest of the sheath is made, I mechanically split the leather down to a fraction of the original thickness and then used that as a lining in the usual manner. We still have that nice little roll at the mouth of the sheath, but this time the lining exactly matches the rest of the sheath. The other obvious change was to have the front and the back equal length in the tradition of the true sash sheath.

Paul
 
JParanee said:
very very nice. Hope ya got alot of raw hide chews for the dog.
Click to expand...

Yep Joe, I got some rawhide chews, as I can't afford to have anymore sheaths destroyed, not to mention that my carelessness ruined what I consider a work of art.

I don't how Paul turns these beautiful sheaths around so fast.

No matter if you know just what you want or if you have no idea, Paul always delivers a fantastic piece.

Will be requesting one for another Fisk NLT in a couple weeks.

Thanks Paul.
 
I got a couple sent out to Paul myself and counting the days till I get them. The alligator looks great but thanks to Joe mine are in the buffalo inlay. Outstanding collection you got there. Congrats!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top