Peening slipjoints

Britt_Askew

Britt_Askew

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Dec 9, 2010
Messages
1,214
What do you use to taper the pin holes for slipjoint pins?
I got a 4/0 HSS tapered pin reamer and have tried peening twice now and one of those I was able to pull back apart. Do I just need to get better at penning or is there something that works better for tapering the holes?
 
I'd guess that practice is a big part of it. It's also possible that you're tapering too much of the hole and asking your pins to fill too much. When I use tapered pin reamers, I try not to ream the bottom 1/2 or even 2/3 of the hole. This way I still have a tight fit near the bottom, and then I can peen my pin to fill the reamed portion at the top.
Practice peening a couple of pieces of scrap together.

Here's a pretty good little video that might help too:
 
Oh, I have been down this road.

Let me save you hours of time, frustration, purchasing things that do not work.

There are two things that work for me first is a pyramid engraver.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HA3QTBO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The second is a die grinder bit.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0799Q9...olid=1LKAR9ZJ1OQB3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Many things have been recommended and tried. These two things work better for me. I mostly use the pyramid engraver to taper holes now
 
Adam has it - Power engraver bits and tapered burrs are really useful in the shop.
My only addition is to use gentle pressure. They cut much faster than you would believe.
 
Also use annealed pins, stainless pinstock may not be as soft as it can be.

But I was also looking in to this question.
I've seen 1:50 reamers for sale, do they remove enough material?
 
A problem some have is they don't peen aggressive enough. Use a 6oz hammer and the first couple of hits on each side should be fairly hard, you want to heavily upset the pin. Then you can lighten up some until you get to the point of peening your happy with.
Look for a frosty white ring around the pin. That means it has cold welded itself .
 
All good advice, esp. light pressure- I turn the carbide bit with my fingers and only the top area of the hole needs to be tapered.
As Stan said above a little more umph at the beginning.
Ken.
 
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