Peening slipjoints

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by Spalted, Sep 14, 2020.

  1. Spalted

    Spalted My name is Britt Askew I like making knives Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 9, 2010
    What do you use to taper the pin holes for slipjoint pins?
    I got a 4/0 HSS tapered pin reamer and have tried peening twice now and one of those I was able to pull back apart. Do I just need to get better at penning or is there something that works better for tapering the holes?
  2. Bill DeShivs

    Bill DeShivs KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Jun 6, 2000
    I you are doing flush pins, the holes only need to be slightly tapered near the surface.
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  3. Drew Riley

    Drew Riley Riley Knife and Tool

    Oct 17, 2007
    I'd guess that practice is a big part of it. It's also possible that you're tapering too much of the hole and asking your pins to fill too much. When I use tapered pin reamers, I try not to ream the bottom 1/2 or even 2/3 of the hole. This way I still have a tight fit near the bottom, and then I can peen my pin to fill the reamed portion at the top.
    Practice peening a couple of pieces of scrap together.

    Here's a pretty good little video that might help too:
    Spalted likes this.
  4. AVigil

    AVigil Adam Vigil knifemaker working the grind Platinum Member

    Feb 17, 2009
    Oh, I have been down this road.

    Let me save you hours of time, frustration, purchasing things that do not work.

    There are two things that work for me first is a pyramid engraver.

    The second is a die grinder bit.

    Many things have been recommended and tried. These two things work better for me. I mostly use the pyramid engraver to taper holes now
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  5. Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith

    Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith ilmarinen - MODERATOR Moderator Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Aug 20, 2004
    Adam has it - Power engraver bits and tapered burrs are really useful in the shop.
    My only addition is to use gentle pressure. They cut much faster than you would believe.
  6. Hengelo_77

    Hengelo_77 Basic Member Basic Member

    Mar 2, 2006
    Also use annealed pins, stainless pinstock may not be as soft as it can be.

    But I was also looking in to this question.
    I've seen 1:50 reamers for sale, do they remove enough material?
  7. SBuzek

    SBuzek KnifeMaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Dec 7, 2006
    A problem some have is they don't peen aggressive enough. Use a 6oz hammer and the first couple of hits on each side should be fairly hard, you want to heavily upset the pin. Then you can lighten up some until you get to the point of peening your happy with.
    Look for a frosty white ring around the pin. That means it has cold welded itself .
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  8. kc custom

    kc custom KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Apr 20, 2005
    All good advice, esp. light pressure- I turn the carbide bit with my fingers and only the top area of the hole needs to be tapered.
    As Stan said above a little more umph at the beginning.
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