peening the tang vs/ screwcap for butts

V

Vance C.

Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
5
Im just wondering about the pros, cons and preferences of ending hidden tang knives. Is it better to peen the tang, or get a buttcap that screws on? i just peen them, its cheaper, since i dont have a tap-and-dye set. but i was just wondering what other people know.
 
I do know you could get a tap, a matching die and a drill and be set to do threaded for less than $20. Say size 12 course, which is just under a 1/4" and works well for 3/16 and do able with 1/8" with maybe 2 flat sides. Get a die with hex sides and use a wrench. Nice thing is you can have several set up and take aparts with threads. Once you peen, your almost stuck with what you got. I have an old tap handle you could have if you paid postage. But, they are not expensive unless you get a fancy one you don't really need.
 
The generic tap and die sets you get at Home Depot work just fine as long as you keep everything greased up. So far, I have used a countersunk 416 stainlesss buttcap with a flush ground stainless corby nut. You can countersink and still have enough "meat" to flush grind the nut without breaking through to the threaded hole with buttcap material as thin as 3/16. There is a closeup picture of the buttcaps of two stag bowies done in this fashion on my website. The other nice thing about doing it this way is that you can grind and fit up the buttcap off of the knife and don't have to worry about it threading back on in the correct position when you glue up the handle. The other nice part is that you don't have to clamp it while you are waiting for everything to dry.
 
Blue is my favorite color with tap-and-dye sets. When I use a tap and die set ,I like 1/4-20 or 12-24.

Seriously, unless you are making a period piece, use a threaded assembly. Go slow with the taps and dies, going in a whole turn and backing up a 1/4 turn to break the chips. Use a good tapping fluid, like tap magic, and you will not have problems. Of course, do all this on unhardened steel, or non-ferrous metals.

Stacy
 
Vance, I have to deal with this decision often but that is because, as has been pointed out, I work with traditional or historical designed swords and daggers often. If given the modern choice I go with threads, it really isn't that much and you can get a tap for around $2.50 and matching die for around $3. What you must not do is use the old peening techniques with modern style construction that requires compression to hold the whole thing together. The bane of this method is that as soon as the handle material shrinks (and it will) your fittings will become loose and make the whole knife a rather cheap and shabby affair. If you are going to peen, every peace must be a tight press fit requiring firm tapping into place so that all parts are tight and sound all on their own before the tang is peened. In ancient times on swords often a spacer or block was used like a washer in order fro you to peen into and snug things down without hammering into the pommel or butt cap. This was then worked into an attractive shape with no sign of the nasty peening.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top