Perhaps a silly question, but I'm asking...

Kalindras

Kalindras

Joined
Aug 24, 1999
Messages
933
Okay...I'm aware that you shouldn't push a woodworking bandsaw into trying to cut steel on a regular basis, as it'll tear it up, but my question is this:

What is necessary to prepare a metal-cutting bandsaw to cut wood? Will a simple blade change do, or do you need to up the speed, bearings, etc.?

The reason I ask is that I intend to buy a Grizzly Metal-Cutting bandsaw, and was hoping to save money by doing double-duty for it cut scales, blanks, etc..

So, if anybody else is doing this one, lemme know what you're doing to preserve your tools, okay? Thanks!


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One little nuclear holocaust can REALLY hose your bowling average...
 
The wood bandsaw would need to be slowed down and a bimetal metal cutting blade installed. The metal cutting saw will cutt about anything. I use a portaband mounted on a stand to cut everything. It isn't the fastest or straightest but it doesn't take up much room and it works for what I need it for.

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Ray Kirk
http://www.tah-usa.net/raker
 
not true...you can FRICTION cut steel....get a finetoothed wood blade...14 or 16 tpi and go at it...make sure the sparks and or hot metal doesnt start anything on fire...i cut .166 6/4 titanium this way....cant do it on my metal cutting bandsaw without ruining my expensive do all blades......

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
Tom, do you mean you friction cut with fine woodworking blades on a woodworking bandsaw at high speeds or on a slowed down machine or metal cutting bandsaw at slow speeds? Forgive my ignorance if that should have been understood! Thanks.
 
i found that trying to cut metal on a wood type band saw is a pain in the butt, becuase the insert in the table has to wide an opening, so buy some thin opening incerts.
definetly buy a delta, powermatic, bridgewood, jet or ridgid bandsaw. i have a 14" ridgid and when you tune it up you'll get excellent cuts. i do only woodworking on my bandsaw, and get absolutely perfect cuts, that require no planing or jointing.
you'll probably find yourself with 2 or 3 bandsaws for various operations, becuase it takes a while to change blades on a bandsaw becuase you need to realign everything. i'm already in the market for another for a woodworking operation that requires a wide blade, i'm looking at the 18" JET.
you can buy a variable speed delta wood/metal 14" bandsaw, go to your local woodworker supply type store and pick up a delta machinery catalog.
if you decide to do a little woodworking too, then you'll want a very accurate bandsaw. i started making wooden cases for my knives.
 
I think the question was cutting wood on a metal-cutting bandsaw. If so, no problem. The only bandsaw I have is metal-cutting and it cuts handle materials all the time. It would be nice to reserve a cheaper blade than one of the pricey bimetals for woods, but they all work. It's not the most accurate saw in the world, but the job gets done.

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Jerry Hossom
knifemaker
www.hossom.com


 
Thanks, Jerry, for hitting the nail so squarely on the head! I figure I'll just be roughing scales on it, anyway, so I don't really need the hyper-accuracy factor...yet, at least. Maybe in the future, but as yet, I don't make enough knives for it to be a worry.


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One little nuclear holocaust can REALLY hose your bowling average...
 
good grief, use the right tool for the right job, guys! If it isn't made, create it yourself!
Metals: The harder the material, the slower the speed, and the more teeth engaged at one time through a cross sectional area, with more lubrication.
Woods: clearance and chip clearing are more important, clogging causes the saw to drift, smoke, and burn.
BTW, no bandsaw is designed to throw sparks!
Machinists are moaning all over this one...


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Jay
www.gilanet.com/JayFisher/index.htm
 
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