Peters heat treating

IT has been a few years since I sent a batch to Peters, but the last time that I checked, they were still the better deal as long as you could send the minimum batch size. I seem to recall that the batch sizer was reduced from 20 to 15 for the "flat rate" job and that is where a lot of the price increase came from , but I may be wrong. This was at least a year ago. Brad did tell me that if you wanted to do a two stage HT for AEB-L like Hoss recommends, it would be double price because the charges are based on how many time they have to load up and fire up the big austenizing/quenching furnace. That is why they would do "similar" steels like 3v and AEB-L in one batch and temper separately for the regular price.
 
I've never hesitated to use Peters. Brad's a good guy and knows his business. On the other hand, they're not designed to be economical for small batches. Buckle down, crank out 20 knives, and send them to Brad IMO.

Another thought for those concerned about warpage... The stuff I batch build to send to Peters is all 1/8 or 3/32, typically 154CM. I grind or have WJ profiles, drill the holes, then send them in. When they get back, I grind them hardened. No warp when you plate quench un-beveled blanks.
 
AVigil said:
Did you contact him, if so what did he say?
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No I didn't, it's been a while but I don't think I said anything because I know on at least one of those batches I was in a huge rush so I just dealt with it. But I remember thinking that I will stick w/ peter's from then on.

AVigil said:
Peen straightening is a good idea.
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Yeah, these ones from peters weren't peened, they were blasted w/ an alox or garnet sand (so it etches into the surface, doesn't peen it really) - not that I had a problem w/ it. i figured it was to remove the torching marks :)
 
Warp is one thing ,
razor-edge-knives said:
No I didn't, it's been a while but I don't think I said anything because I know on at least one of those batches I was in a huge rush so I just dealt with it. But I remember thinking that I will stick w/ peter's from then on.



Yeah, these ones from peters weren't peened, they were blasted w/ an alox or garnet sand (so it etches into the surface, doesn't peen it really) - not that I had a problem w/ it. i figured it was to remove the torching marks :)
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Using media to blast the steel is "Peening" it is a technique used to straighten metal. You blast it on the concave side and the concave surface will rise toward the nozzle.
 
I use surface peening on real stubborn blades. I should look into a bead blaster as I peen by hand and it takes a good bit of time. I then surface grind and all the visible marks are gone.
 
AVigil said:
Warp is one thing ,


Using media to blast the steel is "Peening" it is a technique used to straighten metal. You blast it on the concave side and the concave surface will rise toward the nozzle.
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Not to derail too much, you are welcome to your opinion and I may be wrong. But I have always understood the process that round impact beads will peen the surface (thus elongating that side) whereas sand has sharp corners that will cut into the steel (to strip and remove some of the surface - which I have verified - it will remove steel from the surface).

From GlobalSpec

"Round metal shot, ceramic balls, or glass beads are used for peening applications. Shot peening imparts a compressive residual stress within the surface of the part, which can greatly improve fatigue strength."

And from Graco

"Angular particles cut through soft coatings and rust, cleaning faster, and producing sharper anchor patterns. Rounded particles produce a more even, peened surface, good for breaking away hard brittle coatings and mill scale."

But it may generally be referred to as the same thing, I don't know. I prefer to make a distinction between the two :)
 
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