Photo Request: Buck Spa 303

MT_Pokt

MT_Pokt

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I have a box of knives I'm going to send in for a Spa treatment and before I do, I'm hoping to see some before/after photos of some old Camillus and Shade 303s that you might have sent in. I'm sending a couple of old Camillus made 303s, a 2-dot 112, no-dot 110, a 619, and perhaps some others.

The 303s I'm sending have full blades and haven't been oversharpened. They have light use marks on the blades and bolsters as well as some light rust on the liners. I'm hoping to make them new(ish) again. Here's one, for example.



If you have any 303 before/after, or just after photos I'd love to see them.

While I'm at it, I have a 560 in new condition with advertising on both sides of the blade that I'm considering sending in to have the etchings removed. I can't find this on the BO lists anywhere so I don't know how the etchings were done and whether or not it would be able to be removed. It's "Alcoa" on one side and "Mastic" on the other. I'm not a collector of 560s and I have 2 users already, so it's either going to be gifted, sold, or bartered off. Would anyone care to speculate whether it's more sought after with, or without the advertising?




Thanks in advance.
 
I only have the "before" of my 303, as I've never sent it in! ;) But I will speculate that that the etching on your 560 isn't gonna come off very well. It's a fine knife and I would consider selling or trading for something you will enjoy more. There are likely collectors that would value the advertising imprint on it and maybe even trade it for a clean one of the same model.

Zieg
 
First lets discuss what we are talking about. Etching is one process and printing in ink is another. If the names on the blade are etched, then surface metal has be removed and would require polishing below that level. If the names are just "Printed" in ink with not metal removal, then standard polishing the blade will leave no sign of their past. Many people use buffing of some type and remove the printing from Buck blades themselves. Zieg is correct in that collectors of advertising knives might find value in the printing. Its you choice.

I have only had 300s go thru the 300Bucks spa so I don't have knowledge of results from Buck. I will remind people Bucks warranty or even spa cannot replace old blades on pre -90's 300s and likely several years after that also. You would need to call before sending in something more than a few years old. Usually a old broken blade or sharpened down blade cannot be replaced but the insertion of a current blade may be offered. That's what I have been told and seen. Some of you folks on the coasts need to make it a point to attend one of the knife shows Buck people are going to be at and they will answer your entire list of question right then. The next one is coming up in March in VA. Check the BCCI website or newsletter for details. Don't be bashful, especially if you are a BCCI member, hang around as long as you want and talk to everyone. I have been at the Blade Show and some of you have just walked by and spoke a few words and moved on. How will I ever learn anything if too much of that happens.........300Bucks
 
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Nice hijack...

In case anyone is confused, I am looking for before/after photos of any old Camillus or Shrade 300 series knives you might have sent to Buck for the Spa.

It's not about busted knives or broken blades from a bygone era and it's not about left or right coast shows, comradery or campfires.

So... if you have any photos to input on the subject, I would love to see them, as I assume others with older 300 series knives just might as well. I would even settle for after photos or testimonials about the pre '85 slip-joints that have been to the Spa.

Despite my own abilities and tools, I would like for them to be restored (not repaired as there is nothing wrong with the function or mass) by Buck if possible.

Yes! I've searched, and found threads about a similar topic but no photos of old slip-joints, or not enough to convince me it's the right move.

I don't expect much cooperation after this post... Maybe I'll be surprised.
 
Well, I answered your question on the 560, etched or inked, your call. They looked inked to me but was letting you make that call. Some mother's or filtz and a little elbow grease will get rid of ink. I will say Sorry, for the add on but I try to always mention to call or email Buck before sending in a knife and new readers need an idea of what Buck will do for them. Won't do so on your threads again.

I can say on this subject, folks that spa 300s are few an far between, only likely 300 collectors. The ones I have known have quit active posting. You can think my comments killed your thread but in reality this area is just not that popular with active posters at the moment. You have about 5 or 6 BF posters who care about 300s. That's the reality.

I will ask someone to PM you on this.

300
 
There must be a lot of "sleeper" 300 collectors out there. Any quality 300 on eBay is always heavily bid....
 
You might be more right than you know Desoto, I was one myself. I've been picking up 303s (and others I couldn't pass up) for years. I don't have a mountain of them, I try to keep one of each factory scale design in my display and barter off duplicates. Finding some of the older ones in relatively new condition isn't easy, and when one I don't have, or one in better condition than the one I have comes up, my "more dollars than sense" problem kicks in.

That's the point of this post. I have some (like the one in my original post) that are in terrific shape, with full blades and only light wear and I'd love for them to look as good and clean as possible. I know from searching that folks have sent them to the spa, but I've not found many comments once they've gotten them back. I don't know if that means the owners were disappointed or underwhelmed, or something else...

@300... I meant no disrespect, and as I've always said; I do value your input. I just felt your post strayed a little. Perhaps examples from "300Bucks spa" might give an idea of what I could do with them. I hesitate putting my tools to them for fear of making them worse.
 
I'd pay less for the one with the advertisement since I'd want to remove it. A clean 560 just looks better.
If it's only painted it'll take some stripping chemical and no buffing required. If it's etched however it's gonna be a problem.
 
MT_Pokt..... a single 300 series knife is not that large of an investment. Your assignment and best course of action is to send one in for a spa. When it returns, report back to us here with your conclusion and before/after pictures. Then we will all know.
 
Desoto, may have the best idea. I will add I think you send Joe Houser a email about what could be expected for 300 workover. JHouser@buckknives.com , reply will be slow. I scratched my head and could not think of any particular photo of a before and after me working on one. My process is just a clean and polish process. I dig in blade well with broken toothpick for lint and then I wash with hot water and dish soap with old toothbrush getting in grooves of sawcuts and then hairdryer blow dry, then WD-40 or Mineral oil soak. Then overnight drip dry. Then carefully polish blade with Flitz or Mother's wheel polish, very light polish following grinding marks. Then work on bolsters, ends and back with a Worksharp extra fine polishing belt or even a dremel loose cloth wheel and polishing paste. Be careful to not work on sawcuts. Polish up bolsters, clean up any grit and couple of drops of oil. Don' t polish the late 80's shields that say BUCK in ink.

As a collector, be careful, thinking "over" fixing up a older knife it may be noticeable to folks with older NIB 300s. Some people mirror polish a knife that never came that way from the factory. I bet you, Desoto, Matt, Bert, and a half dozen others could walk thru a knife show an point out the over 'fixed up' 300s. 300/ch

I remember a couple of photos
Here is old one in the raw.


Here it is after mineral oil soak and work over.


I am pretty sure I did a forum post on this process a long while ago. From your photo I would question Joe on how well the factory could restore a blade back to factory polish.
 
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Thanks guys! I accept that assignment Desoto and will work on some good "before" photos of the lot I'll be sending in for a future post upon their return.

The one you worked over in your photos looks terrific 300. That's about what I would expect. My concern doing them myself would be that unnatural look you describe which is what I hope to avoid. I'll collect my thoughts and email Joe. I'm in no hurry as I've had some of these for years anyway.

As for the 560, I think I'll leave it as-is and let the next owner decide what to do with it.
 
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