Photographing your work

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Oct 28, 2004
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I have finally decided that I need to photograph the slipjoints I make. Now for some advice. What would be a decent camera for this work? How close should you try to photograph? What is best lense, etc for fthis work? What color background is appropriate? Thansk for any and all help.

John Lloyd
 
I use a FujiFilm FinePix S8000fd. I don't use a light box or a tripod and if you look at my pictures they look darn good when you consider I just point and shoot.... ;)
 
Its all about lighting, if you cant get good pictures with a Point and shoot camera then a pro camera wont make a difference. like i said its all about defusing you light sorceress. don't use incandescent lights. use the sun or what i use. i use 3 lights and a photo tent, 2 are 5000k color and around 100W and another is like 5500K at something like 3000W. thy are Daylight florescent lamps and thy work great. The camera i use is a Panasonic TZ5, great camera I just love it, but befor that i used my Sony DSC-N1 which is also nice. here is a picture using the DSC-N1. its all about the lighting and the number of pictures you take. sorry :rolleyes:, i just love that picture, every thing just went right in it. as for a back ground color, you just need to find a plane color that does k\not take away from the knife, also i have found that picking a different color then anything that is on the knife helps as well. o and also remember that the color of the background will change the lighting completely as a dark background will seam like it just sucks up the light and a white back ground just seams to make extra light. just play around till you get what you want and take a ton of pictures and i mean a ton.

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Camera choice is pretty wide open. I recommend an SLR, with at least 8MP. Beyond that it is mostly up to you and your budget to decide. A very simple camera will take a good knife shot, usually.

Most better cameras have a fair Macro setting, but a specialized macro lens or adapter is nice if you are doing really small items or details.You don't need one, though.

Making a light box of some sort is really what makes the most difference. It can be simple, or fancy....but they all do the same thing....diffuse the light and get rid of (most)shadows. When using artificial lighting, use daylight fluorescent lighting or sunlight balanced lamps ( 5200K).

Where even mediocre shots, and ones that seem too dark and contrasty ,come to life is in the processing. Most any photo viewer program, like Windows Photo gallery or any other freebie, will adjust the brightness,color,and contrast. That alone can make a stunning difference. Another problem is that many people shoot a nice photo and then never crop it. With the possible exception of Bubba Doll's tummy, the background should be a very small element in most knife photos. When you really get good at doing knife shots, then you can worry about all the careful placement of background elements. When getting started, some sort or organic and neutral background is best. A nice weathered piece of gray wood, a bale of hay, a piece of leather, an old book, etc.

SOAPBOX:
I am not a fan of the trend that any knife photo has to have a gun or a stack of cartridges in it,BTW. I'm sure there are those who love it.....but there are those who love gangsta music.....maybe it's just me.
I just think Bubba Doll's tummy , or an antique fly tying book, gives a much nicer image of knife people than the "Stab 'em, then shoot 'em" shots.

Stacy
 
To add my 2 cents...... Background and lighting has everything to do with knife photos. Often times I will spend hours finding the right background, and adjusting lighting. I agree with Stacy concerning other objects in the background...with the exception of human anatomy being included...I dislike and disagree with that, and in some cases it borders on being vulgar. Thats partly a personal preference, but it also stems from public perception....I like to see knives portrayed in a professional type setting, where the focus is on the knife, and not some prop.

Camera wise, what I have found is that a camera with good optics, (read that to say glass lens) takes the best knife photos. There are only a few digital cameras that actually have glass lenses today.... I personally like the Sony DSC-H series cameras. You really won't know the difference unless you actually take a photo with a cheaper plastic lensed camera, and then take the same shot with a glass lensed camera....then the difference is startling and very evident.
 
Ed,
Sorry, I should have saved the tongue in cheek comments about body photos for another thread.

You are right that the impression the photos give is very important. Anything that cheapens the message is counter productive. That is my problem with the gun shots.

As far as the background and composition of the shot, I agree it is a big part of the overall package, but is secondary to a clear,crisp, properly exposed photo.
John is doing slipjoints, so any major background will be overkill ( that is why I suggested simple backgrounds). A big Bowie leaning against a steer skull may look great, a slippie sitting on the same skull will look lost.

I know that there are a lot of professional photographers who do knife shots, but I often think that when the ratio of background elements to knife is often more than ten to one, it becomes more of an art shot than a knife shot.

Don't get me wrong, I love to peruse my copies of "Points of Interest", and other similar books, but the shots aren't generally knife display shots, they are art.

On composition,if I recall my old classes right, the main subject should be 1/3 of the frame to 1/2 frame. On a 4" slipjoint, that would allow about 8-12" max frame coverage. Thus, any area larger than a full sheet of paper may reduce the impact of the photo. The more elements in the background, the less the folder will stand out. Background elements should be equal or lesser in total content than the main subject. So, a folder would best be shot with small accents, like coins, a pocket watch, or fishing flies. Breaking the surface with texture is also important, as it softens the background and accentuates the sharply focused subject. Weathered wood, and natural items are very good.

I want to comment on the distance when shooting photos of small objects. It is often a temptation to get as close as possible, filling the entire viewfinder with the subject. The better way ( especially with todays much higher megapixel cameras) is to back away 2-3-4 feet,and take the shot. You will get a much better depth of field and lots less glare and reflection. When you edit the photo, crop to the desired frame, adjusting contrast ,brightness, and color if needed. My earlier comments about macro shots were more intended for those doing extreme closeups shots, and not general knife shots.

Stacy
 
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