Hi All,
I figured I'd give this etching stuff a go. I used exactly the same setup as Loneronin (thanks for the tip!): 5V2.5A DC transformer, + to the piece and salt water. I went to the local electronics store and bought a spray can of photo-sensitive laqcuer (Kontakt Chemie Positiv 20) and some developer (caustic soda). I made the design on the computer, printed in negative on an overhead-sheet using my laserprinter. Sprayed a coating on the clean steel, dried in the oven at 100C for 15 minutes (covered over to protect it from the light inside the oven). I then put the sheet on the lacquer, printed side down (I printed it mirrored) to prevent shadowing due to the thickness of the sheet. I used three UV LED's in series on a 9Vbattery to expose the film. Developed in the caustic soda and then etched. The following pic is the 3rd try (on annealed and ground 1095):
My observations:
- This etching is great and very easy with nearly no cash invested (transformer was from my "bag of old transformers").
- Laserprints aren't opaque enough. The lacquer behind the printed sections does get some exposure. With the one shown above I traced-over the print with a sharpie, which is a bitch to do. I have to check if my printer has a mode which puts down more toner.
- the UV LED's (E4 a piece) give more than enough UV for proper exposure. Only suited for small surfaces though, otherwise it would be wiser to buy a proper UV lamp.
- The lacquer is rubbed off pretty easily, so careful dabbing only.
I will continue to work on this some more to see if I can get a more robust process (tips are appreciated). The biggest benefit would be that you have incredible flexibility.
What are your thoughts on the logo itself? (Hint: my name is Rody Koops)....
Cheers Rody
ps can anyone tell me how etching stencils are made? Are they perforated like silkscreening stencils? Are there special printers for that?
I figured I'd give this etching stuff a go. I used exactly the same setup as Loneronin (thanks for the tip!): 5V2.5A DC transformer, + to the piece and salt water. I went to the local electronics store and bought a spray can of photo-sensitive laqcuer (Kontakt Chemie Positiv 20) and some developer (caustic soda). I made the design on the computer, printed in negative on an overhead-sheet using my laserprinter. Sprayed a coating on the clean steel, dried in the oven at 100C for 15 minutes (covered over to protect it from the light inside the oven). I then put the sheet on the lacquer, printed side down (I printed it mirrored) to prevent shadowing due to the thickness of the sheet. I used three UV LED's in series on a 9Vbattery to expose the film. Developed in the caustic soda and then etched. The following pic is the 3rd try (on annealed and ground 1095):
My observations:
- This etching is great and very easy with nearly no cash invested (transformer was from my "bag of old transformers").
- Laserprints aren't opaque enough. The lacquer behind the printed sections does get some exposure. With the one shown above I traced-over the print with a sharpie, which is a bitch to do. I have to check if my printer has a mode which puts down more toner.
- the UV LED's (E4 a piece) give more than enough UV for proper exposure. Only suited for small surfaces though, otherwise it would be wiser to buy a proper UV lamp.
- The lacquer is rubbed off pretty easily, so careful dabbing only.
I will continue to work on this some more to see if I can get a more robust process (tips are appreciated). The biggest benefit would be that you have incredible flexibility.
What are your thoughts on the logo itself? (Hint: my name is Rody Koops)....
Cheers Rody
ps can anyone tell me how etching stencils are made? Are they perforated like silkscreening stencils? Are there special printers for that?
