Photos of my new Sebenza and EDC setup

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Jan 8, 2005
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144
Just picked this up today. Small Sebenza 21:

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And here it is with the EDC knife it will be replacing for a while. Every time I have tried to replace this 710 with M2HS steel with a new EDC, it doesn't last very long, and I come running back to the 710. It has been my favorite knife that I have owned for well over 5 years. But I think it will be a different story with the Sebenza.
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And a few shots of my new EDC setup. :D
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The only thing I will do to the knife is remove the lanyard. I think it looks cool, but it's not something that I need or prefer to have. I have never liked lanyards, but I am going to give it a few days to prove me wrong before I remove it, though.

Some real quick first-impression things I notice that really stand out to me as my favorite parts of the knife after opening the box and having the knife in my hand for less than 5 minutes:
-Pocket clip: the best ive seen
-Finish on the titanium: I wasn't expecting it to feel this amazing. WOW.
-Blue hardware: I actually was unsure about it when ordering, and almost ordered one with silver hardware from TNK. But after seeing the blue in person, it looks excellent and I'm glad I got it.
-Weight: feels so light. I love it. Then again, I'm coming from a Benchmade 710. But nonetheless, excellent weight.

Dislikes: Thumbstud -- but this has been beaten to death and I wont go there, because the rest of the knife is so great that it almost doesnt even matter. It's not that I dislike how the thumbstud looks, cause it LOOKS nice. I just dislike using it.
 
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Nice. I got my Small Sebenza 21 in the mail yesterday. Are you going to keep the blue lanyard pin in? I removed my lanyard but left the pin in, but it rattles a little bit so I haven't decided if I want to leave it in. Looks nice though.
 
Nice. I got my Small Sebenza 21 in the mail yesterday. Are you going to keep the blue lanyard pin in? I removed my lanyard but left the pin in, but it rattles a little bit so I haven't decided if I want to leave it in. Looks nice though.

I hadnt thought about that, because I was under the impression that after removing the lanyard, the pin just falls out. I thought the lanyard was the only thing holding the pin in place, being that it is threaded through the middle.

Hmm, I guess I have to decide that now. I think the pin looks cool, since its anadized blue, but if it rattles and serves no other purpose without the lanyard, I could see myself wanting to just take it out.
 
Nice taste in watches. Got a 2254.50.00 myself. I have a very similar EDC setup, same watch, iPhone, and a small 21. The only difference is my light. It's smaller, and brighter! Oh yeah, and my stuff is all a lot more beat up. =)

I'd post pics, but shamefully I am not wearing my watch today.
 
Nice taste in watches. Got a 2254.50.00 myself. I have a very similar EDC setup, same watch, iPhone, and a small 21. The only difference is my light. It's smaller, and brighter! Oh yeah, and my stuff is all a lot more beat up. =)

I'd post pics, but shamefully I am not wearing my watch today.

The 2254.50 is a wonderful watch. I had a Breitling in the rotation, which I just recently sold on a watch forum because this Omega was getting most of my wrist-time.

Oh, and the only reason my stuff isn't too beat up is because of these two things:

- I have a corporate desk job, and when I get to work, a lot of times my pockets get emptied onto my desk where my stuff will sit, safely, all day next to me. LOL

- I have a rotation of watches, lights, and knives. As a result, one single item doesn't see pocket use day-after-day ;)

Also, none of the items are that old. Haha. But nothing wrong with stuff getting beat up. It gives it character! :p
 
I wear a mid-sized Seamaster, carry a Sure-Fire E1B Backup, use a company Iphone, edc a small Regular Sebenza, and tote a Mulholland Brothers brown leather wallet.

Professor.
 
Alright I'll list mine:

Seamaster (same as above), small Sebenza 21, 4Sevens quark mini 123 190 lumens, iPhone 4, Coach money clip/man wallet thingy.
 
I did not like the stud at first but eventually got used to it. I think it's fine now

Great EDC set up.
 
I like the thumbstud but I guess I am in the minority in that respect, I especially like the fact that it is only on one side (unless of course you have dual thumbstuds).
 
You are going to cringe when I tell you this, but if you take your favorite rotary tool :eek: to that pointy SOB of a thumbstud and make it FLAT on top you will LOVE the improvement in comfort and ease of use! Basically just use the thickness of the lower ridges to guide you on how little material to remove to make all of the ridges the same. IMHO there's really no good reason to have such a pointy thumbstud because you use the side/edge grooves to gain purchase, not direct pressure downward on the point, though I'm sure that many rookies make this mistake. I've done this mod to all of my CRK thumbstuds and everyone that has seen it and uses/owns the stock/unmodified version comments on how much of an improvement my little mod is. :D
(sorry Chris!! :p )


..I know that is a radical suggestion for your brand new little darling, but after you've dropped it a few times on pavement and properly broke it in, try it. It's a very subtle/ almost undetectable mod that makes a noticeable difference in handling/opening.


Peace/good luck/welcome to Club Sebbie.
 
Hey Ditch,

Have any pictures of that? Not that I am thinking about doing it at this point (yea, it's still got that new-car smell. haha), but I am just curious to see what it would look like.

I think it would stand out more because of the blue anodizing on the thumbstud, and you'd see the silver part after grinding it down.
 
Hey Ditch,

Have any pictures of that? Not that I am thinking about doing it at this point (yea, it's still got that new-car smell. haha), but I am just curious to see what it would look like.

I think it would stand out more because of the blue anodizing on the thumbstud, and you'd see the silver part after grinding it down.

I've had my lefty large 21 for about three weeks now. From all opening/closing (knifesturbation) I've done to get broken in, the blue anodization is already wearing off.

I wouldn't worry too much about the differences in colors--it's going to happen eventually! :)
 
No pics, sorry, but you would never notice it if I didn't tell you OR you opened it and was familiar with a stock Sebenza. Like I said, EVERONE that owns a Sebbie immediately notices it when they open it. They have that wtf look on their face and then they look at my thumbstud. :D


Oh, and don't worry about that nice purdy new blue, it will quickly wear off the tip, so that's a non-issue for a real user/EDC.
 
Sebenza
Omega Seamaster
Benchmade 710
Surefire E2L
iPhone

Awesome EDC! My favorite knife (Sebenza), favorite watch, favorite light and the iPhone & 710 are cool too. I have a different wallet but other than that you pretty much have the same EDC as do on any given day. Of course my EDC does changes pretty often. Currently I have the itch to get my first mnandi so I might swap out the small sebenza for the mnandi.

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..I just noticed your other thread where you are having difficulties with the opening.


I've got a couple pointers to help you out.

There's two main forces of friction/tightness to overcome with a new Sebenza and they come from the lock bar and the pivot bushing/washers.

First, the lock bar because this is what makes a new Sebenza initially hard to open. The lock bar applies considerable side pressure against the blade and, combined with the dry virgin detent, can make for a stiff opening (very subjective). I always take a new Sebenza apart and "work" the lock bar outwards/back 'n forth to help break it in. This is something to do carefully because you don't want to overextend it but just flex enough times and far enough that you lighten up the tension a tiny bit. (Chris is probably cringing. Sorry again! :p ) You then need to add a small dab of some good "grease" (not oil) to the detent ball and and to the path it takes (very little!). I use Krytox (same as on the pivot bushings) but a good Moly based or Mobile 1 synthetic would be fine. This little trick helps to wear in/polish the area that is under considerable pressure and lessens the friction at the same time. When you reassemble the knife do not kill/over tighten the hex bolt on the pivot, just barely snug it. On a tight knife this will allow a minute amount of looseness and help until the parts wear in. Once you've had it a few weeks and really start to use it you will be able fully tighten the pivot. **During this break in be mindful of not getting it too dirty because of the extra grease you've applied!** After you get to the point where you think it's loosened up, strip it down and thoroughly degrease and clean it, very lightly greasing ONLY the pivot bushing/washers. You don't need to apply grease to the detent this time and you don't want any extra squishing out when you tighten the pivot! If you do, just clean the excess with a cotton swab dampened lightly(!) w/ acetone. With only the precisely machined/fitted pivot bushing having any lube, there's virtually no chance for dirt/sand/grit to cling or get anywhere in your knife to cause wear. I frequently wash mine under running water or give it a light blow job with the air gun when I've gotten particularly filthy and I very rarely have to tear it down! This is the direct result of precision fitted parts and the thin film of grease that keeps the crud out. This is a point I rarely hear talked about and is an example of the hidden genius behind the Sebenza. Enjoy.
 
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