Picking out new Randalls... Post pics/suggestions here!

S

Stiletto Raggio

Joined
Jan 29, 2000
Messages
546
I am going to be ordering I think four Randall knives this month so that they will be done by graduation. I am currently Looking and a Combat Companion, a Model 16 with sawteeth, and a Model 27, but I am not really sure about what I want. If you have pics of knives you have (or just want), please post them here, as I am looking for ideas about blade/handle/hilt combinations and am having trobule visualizing all of the possibilities.

Thanks in advance!

(There is an identical post in general discussion. sorry)
 
Stiletto, whatever one you get, I would think twice about the sawteeth. You will loose a lot of use, they do not have the kerf to saw wood properly. Just get the blade shape you want w/o the teeth. When I was in the service, troops that had knives with sawbacks traded them off or sold them. Just my .02.
 
Hmmm... if they aren't useful, why does Randall put them on the Mod 18? I had always heard that sawteeth were bad for blade strength, but figured that if anyone knew how to do it right, it would be Randall. I just wondered if you mean that Randall sawteeth are bad, or just sawteeth in general.

I am thinking very heavily, and I think i am going to get a Model 27 standard (for my dad) and a Model 2 8" with black micarta and nickle silver. I was thinking of getting a little bear bowie to use as a utility knife, too.
 
Stiletto, nothing against RMK, just in general. You could have a knife made with the proper kerf for sawing, but it is not that often you need a knife to saw, it also makes it hard to place hands on the back of the blade for any reason,it is also harder to clean in the field, ever try to wipe a sawblade off with a rag or your pants leg, and on the miniscule chance that it was ever used on an enemy, I have heard of saw teeth hanging up in the ribcage. I think that story happened to one Special Forces trooper, but has been told through many different outlets, anyway, the guy had to leave the knife as they were being pressed hard and had to move out. Others might have a different view, these are just my experiences(not the ribcage thing).
 
I agree with MJHKNIVES's comments regarding sawteeth. Sure, in a survival situation they might be moderately useful, but for the other 99.999% of your life, they're a PITA.

On the Model 16 you're interested in, check the spacing on the finger grooves. I had the Micarta between the third finger and pinky removed on my #14 (same grip) because it didn't fit right; once that was done it was a much better fit. The #27 will be a nice knife if you prefer that blade shape, I prefer the #5. Purely personal choice.

While we're discussing personal choices, when I think of Randall, I think tool steel. They sell a lot of stainless, but I can get stainless from lots of knifemakers and I actually know which stainless steel I'm getting from Benchmade et al. But one thing RMK does extremely well is forged tool steel. But if you need stainless (saltwater ops etc) go with stainless.

Personal preference (all tool steel):
** #14 (w/o teeth) I bought mine when I was on active duty and had it parkerized (on recommendation of a Marine on the staff). Great knife, the tool steel holds a keen edge a long time; you just need to get past destroying the collector value. It's been around the world on Uncle Sam's nickel.
** #1-7 Micarta is a classic design and you need at least one.
** #5-6 is a very useful useful blade and a great size for general use/utilty. Bradford Angier's mods were well thought out and functional -- mine is very similar.
** I just picked up an RMK #1-7 in Stag -- very nice knife, but I wouldn't take it camping, it's just too pretty :) YMMV
 
I ordered a Mod 8-8 with nickle silver and flanged alum buttcap, standard Mod 27 for my dad, and a Mod 15 single nickle silver hilt for my AF buddy. As of right now, I am thinking of one more knife to fill the utility (not hunting) role, and the Mod 16 still keeps coming to mind. I need ot see pics of the nylon and waxed shethes to know what I want, but it seems to have a very useful blade shape, lighter than my Mod 14 and the Mod 2 I am getting as a purpose made fighter.

I am going to Florida for srping break, so I am going to make it a point to go back to the shop and try out the handles for myself.

As far as the Tool vs stainless argument goes, my Mod 14 is stainless and the Mod 2 I ordered is going to be as of now. I can always make the changes wehn they send me the three month notice. Their stainless is forged, too, right? And how hard is it to keep tool steel up in the field? If, god forbid, I ahve to go to extended combat, it could go without cleaning and oiling for weeks.

Thanks for the input, especailly on model prefs. Keep it coming.
 
Stainless may be the best choice if you can't or won't parkerize the carbon blade. My #14 is 17 yo and no rust at all.

A mod 8-8? Is that an 8" trout and bird? I'm actually considering a pair of "Trout and Bird" knives for my nephews. The "pathfinder" is a nice design also -- very clean lines.
 
Nothing at all wrong with stainless steel. I own two RMKs made of it, have had them for well over twenty years with no problems.
I am a Knifemaker also, and use stainless most of the time, I have never had one come back.
 
Mike,
I have nothing against stainless steel in general and have found ATS34 and 154CM to hold up quite well. VG-10 and BG-42 also have great reputations. I'm sure RMK does a great job with stainless, but that doesn't mean I want a stainless Randall. I have some nice stainless blades, but tool steel seems to take and hold a better edge, so for me tool steel gets the nod. (note: I do have a model 10-5 which is only available in stainless. Nice knife, but it's the only RMK I own that I've managed to hurt -- dinged the edge.)

Call me old fashioned but when I have a choice, I'll take tool steel. My Benchmade 710 has the M-2 blade and it's great, but my EDC is a BM940 with 154CM, tool steel was not an option.

Also, are stainless RMK forged? The #10 is not and I've heard or read that others are also shaped by simply grinding them down from stock. I'm not sure RMK does forge stainless.
 
As a lil side note, I've read that Randall put the sawteeth on some of his knives so they could be used to cut through the skin of a downed helochoper, something I hope none of us hase to worry about!
 
Unfortunately, for cutting through helicopter skin, the teeth should face forward to cut on a push rather a pull stroke. Otherwise, the teeth/knife are very likely to get jammed. With teeth facing forward, the knife is easily pulled to the rear. I've ownly seen one knife with teeth facing forward and it was designed and made by a retired Navy Master Chief in Virginia Beach.
 
Two thing: The Mod 8-8 is a type. I ordered a model 2-8, so my options make a bit more sense now.

Slo, as far as stanless goes, there are special notes for Models 9 and 10 saying that they are only ground, not forged. Hence, they are also a lot cheaper than the other Randalls and because they have either few (10) or no (9) available options, they are available for rapid delivery.

I suppose I can just as Gary myself when I go down there for Spring Leave (YAY!!!)

If I were to get a knife parkerized, which seems like blasphemy, who would do it?
 
Randall forges their SS blades, except for a couple of exceptions. It would make no difference to me if they were forged, (a waste of time IMO for SS)or 100% ground to shape, I would choose it over tool steel. Believe me, you have no idea what a sub tropical climate can do to a piece of tool steel, or it's edge. For the forging info, I called the RMK shop and asked, there is also a thread here on that very subject.

On the subject of parkerizing, you cannot do that with a SS blade, it would have to be tool steel, and the edge, the most important part, would still be subject to corrosion.
Parkerizing could not be done on a completed knife as it is a stovetop operation, and would destroy the handle. Soldiers have gotten along for centuries without the subdued look on their blades, it ain't really that important. If you are worried about something on the handle reflecting, just paint it, or wrap it with tape. Just my experience and .02.
 
Actually, my O-1 RMK #14 is parkerized, including the tang and the micarta came through the process just fine. You're right about the edge, but that's much easier to deal with than the entire knife. If I was in an area that was wet a great deal of the time, I'd go stainless too, I'd also go with a kydex sheath instead of leather.
 
Model 19's with 5" blade, no thumb notches and double hilt....really stout blade configuration plus you have the true and false edges factory sharpened.....compact and easy to use.....I think this is one of the vastly under-rated knives from RMK.

Of course, no self-respecting urban "commando" would be caught without his/her model 14.....have one myself....

Toted a model 18 crutchtip in Vietnam.....if I had similar duties facing me again, I'd do likewise.

"JimsBowies"
 
I looked at getting a Mod 18, but the handles don't look very comfortable. And is the tang relatively long? I know that quality is not an issue, but I am curious.

Right now it is between the 16 and the 12 Little Bear. They both seem like good utility knives, with the Little Bear leaning more toward fighting but lacking the waterproof sheath. Suggestions on a good handle configuartion for the little bear would be nice, as well as advice fr concealed carry (anyhting in my home state of IN 6" or under is Kosher. Plus I have a CCW). I looked at the 19, but it looks so unwieldy. How easy is it to use?

The info here is great. Thanks for the advice.
 
...you're heading in the right direction now...

JimBo was pretty much on the mark with his #19 combo, and I'd stay away from the CC, it's a little on the lighter side...

The #12 LBB is a really underrated RMK, but makes for one kick-ass user/field/urban defense knife...try it in stainless, with a NS hilt & cap, in the black Micarta handle configuration, with one of Greg's 'Waxed' sheaths...you'd be pretty much set for 'come what may'...

Sullivan's Holster Shop
Greg Gutcher, Sr.
5515 N. Nebraska Ave.
Tampa, Fla. 33604
Phone 813-236-8791, voice or fax
Hrs. M-F 8:30-5:00 ET

A black 'no stone' model 'C' sheath would kick butt with the above mentioned combo.

We have around 50 RMK's, have owned 30-odd others, and though we're kinda new to this 'knife thang', could maybe answer a few of your questions...

Email anytime if you think we can help.

Sheldon and Edna
AKA 'Melvin-Purvis'

p.s. You can always 'blue' the blade without screwing it up for later resale...but if you Parkerize or bead blast it, it's yours, forever...lol

p.p.s. Sawteeth are like Trix... ;)
 
My favorite is the model 25 with polished stag and leather combo handle. Preferably 6" over the 5". Very nice.




R25_D.html
 
Right now it is between the 16 and the 12 Little Bear. They both seem like good utility knives, with the Little Bear leaning more toward fighting but lacking the waterproof sheath.

The info here is great. Thanks for the advice. [/B][/QUOTE]

The waterproofing is an option on all RMK sheaths except for the black ones. It can be ordered at the time you place the order with RMK or you can send the sheath back to us at SHS after you receive the knife and we can do it then. Price is $6.00 plus S&I Greg

:o :o Sorry everyone but the price listed above is the 2001 price. The current price for the waterproofing on a RMK sheath is $7.00 plus S&I. Guess I was half asleep when I made that post originally. Greg
 
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