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pics of my botched conves edge
- Thread starter WVHILLS
- Start date
:thumbdn:
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2005
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- 543
Paging Justabuyer.... he may be able to help.
foxyrick
British Pork
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2006
- Messages
- 2,254
I think you can make that nice again. I would start by taking the edge higher, maybe about double what the pictures show.
You could follow the tutorial that was around here a month or so ago, and flat grind it at first, or my method which goes for the convex straight away. Not saying mine is better, it's just what the way I found. Also, I don't think I'm an expert at all or even particularly skilled. Rather, my knives have hair-splitting edges due to attention, perseverance and patience.
Use a course grit (240 grit wet 'n' dry paper for instance) to start with. And keep it brushed clean and changed often. That way, it cuts quickly without excessive pressure which can over-round the edge.
For the straight part of the blade, I use a rubber back on a solid, flat surface. The rubber is about 2mm thick and quite tough, not soft like a mouse mat; it's a piece of antistatic mat for electronics stuff but anything similar (including leather) will do. Before that, I used to (sometimes still do) do the convexing totally by hand on a flat surface - you can have total control of the final angle that way.
Either way, draw the knife edge-trailing. If using the rubber, hold an angle a little smaller than you want the final angle. The dip in the rubber will increase it at the very edge.
On a hard surface, 'roll' the blade with your wrists, increasing the angle (only slightly though) as you draw across the paper approaching, but not-quite touching the current edge-of-the-edge. Eventually you will build up the convex shape by removing metal that isn't convex, and reach the edge-of-the-edge. It won't feel sharp until you get there and start cutting the edge itself, because you are removing thickness, not removing the edge. You don't lose any depth of blade doing it this way.
For the curved part on the FBM, I found fixing the knife to the table and using a 'file' hand-held was easier to control. The 'file' is a stiff metal bar with a piece of the rubber or leather glued on and the abrasive paper on top of that. Same principle as for the straight part of the edge but you are moving the abrasive, not the knife.
Once you just start cutting the actual edge, start the other side. Once you reach the edge on that side, the knife should quickly start to get sharp. Make sure it's sharp all the way along the edge. I often do this very slowly, working both sides up, but most people take one side to a burr all along it, then work the burr off from the other side. Probably quicker that way and I do sometimes do it myself.
Once it's sharp, use finer grits on leather to take it to whatever finish you prefer. You're not really changing shape now, just removing/polishing scratches out.
The FBM was the first Busse I owned and sharpened, so it was a learning exercise for me!
Good luck and don't worry - your knife will be fine.
You could follow the tutorial that was around here a month or so ago, and flat grind it at first, or my method which goes for the convex straight away. Not saying mine is better, it's just what the way I found. Also, I don't think I'm an expert at all or even particularly skilled. Rather, my knives have hair-splitting edges due to attention, perseverance and patience.
Use a course grit (240 grit wet 'n' dry paper for instance) to start with. And keep it brushed clean and changed often. That way, it cuts quickly without excessive pressure which can over-round the edge.
For the straight part of the blade, I use a rubber back on a solid, flat surface. The rubber is about 2mm thick and quite tough, not soft like a mouse mat; it's a piece of antistatic mat for electronics stuff but anything similar (including leather) will do. Before that, I used to (sometimes still do) do the convexing totally by hand on a flat surface - you can have total control of the final angle that way.
Either way, draw the knife edge-trailing. If using the rubber, hold an angle a little smaller than you want the final angle. The dip in the rubber will increase it at the very edge.
On a hard surface, 'roll' the blade with your wrists, increasing the angle (only slightly though) as you draw across the paper approaching, but not-quite touching the current edge-of-the-edge. Eventually you will build up the convex shape by removing metal that isn't convex, and reach the edge-of-the-edge. It won't feel sharp until you get there and start cutting the edge itself, because you are removing thickness, not removing the edge. You don't lose any depth of blade doing it this way.
For the curved part on the FBM, I found fixing the knife to the table and using a 'file' hand-held was easier to control. The 'file' is a stiff metal bar with a piece of the rubber or leather glued on and the abrasive paper on top of that. Same principle as for the straight part of the edge but you are moving the abrasive, not the knife.
Once you just start cutting the actual edge, start the other side. Once you reach the edge on that side, the knife should quickly start to get sharp. Make sure it's sharp all the way along the edge. I often do this very slowly, working both sides up, but most people take one side to a burr all along it, then work the burr off from the other side. Probably quicker that way and I do sometimes do it myself.
Once it's sharp, use finer grits on leather to take it to whatever finish you prefer. You're not really changing shape now, just removing/polishing scratches out.
The FBM was the first Busse I owned and sharpened, so it was a learning exercise for me!
Good luck and don't worry - your knife will be fine.
Last Visible Canary
actively parsing hurf durf
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2006
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http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=507905&page=2
if your able to keep yourself from going to obtuse when you are rounding out the edges, and happen to have an edgepro apex - you could try something like whats shown in the link above...
if your able to keep yourself from going to obtuse when you are rounding out the edges, and happen to have an edgepro apex - you could try something like whats shown in the link above...
Are you just concerned that it's too steep? I cannot see any problem otherwise
My first sharpenings on the factory edge always start out looking like only the shoulder is knocked down. (sort of what your pics look like) As you bring it back farther you will start to shred the finish. For a user it doesn't really concern me.
Keep at it and lower your angle as you drag it. You will eventually get there. I use pretty coarse compound (180-220 SiC, works pretty fast
) on leather and only change to the super fine stuff to tidy up the edge.
My first sharpenings on the factory edge always start out looking like only the shoulder is knocked down. (sort of what your pics look like) As you bring it back farther you will start to shred the finish. For a user it doesn't really concern me.
Keep at it and lower your angle as you drag it. You will eventually get there. I use pretty coarse compound (180-220 SiC, works pretty fast
) on leather and only change to the super fine stuff to tidy up the edge.- Joined
- May 7, 2006
- Messages
- 3,338
If you would like to PM me and Will pay shipping both ways I will fix the knife for you.
Jim
Jim
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2005
- Messages
- 16,379
Very nice of you to offer:thumbup:
Thanks I really appreciate it and would definately pay shipping both ways plus extra. If I am unable to get it the way I want it after a few more trys I will pm you
its dull, real dull.
ok I have figured out the problem, I am definately sharpening everything but the actual edge...should I increase or decrease my angle while sharpening? btw I pull the knife away from the edge instead of pushing against it. Should I decrease the angle and remove more material from behind the edge thus thinning it more?
foxyrick
British Pork
- Joined
- Dec 26, 2006
- Messages
- 2,254
If the angle you are sharpening at isn't touching the edge yet, just keep going at that angle, pulling away from the edge as you are doing.
That will thin the edge a little more (doesn't look like you will get it too thin from the pics so far - probably be just right). Eventually you will reach the edge and start to get a burr.
As soon as you do, make sure that the burr even all along the edge. Then you can do the other side, again working at the same angle until you reach the edge and start to remove the burr.
You'll get there. You are really doing it the way I did at first - thinning out before actually sharpenning it. That's fine.
The most important thing is not to round off the edge by putting on too much pressure or increasing the angle at the edge too much. Better to use course abrasive and light strokes.
Once the burr is gone, the edge should be quite sharp. Now it just needs a little polishing on finer abrasive and stropping. Make sure to use light pressure still - it's easy to round off the edge if you press too hard once you are touching the edge.
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2005
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- 543
What are you using as backing for the sandpaper?
To me... it looks like either your backing is too soft... or you are not being consistent with your angles.
Here is a hair splitting convex edge applied to an FFFBM... which is significantly thicker than the CGFBM.
Justabuyer took things further with his insane Hell Razor edge.
He does all his sharpening work by hand... but... I use an 8" buffing wheel for the final stages of sharpening.
I use sandpaper on top of a length of foam camping mat for the initial shaping at 180 grit.. then I remove the 180 finish with 600 grit... then the rest is done on the buffer.
Your knife is not ruined and it can all be fixed..... but... steepen the angle you are dragging the blade across the sandpaper... and check that your backing is not too soft... or you will continue to create what is an "over rounded" edge.
Hope that helps.
What are you using as backing for the sandpaper?
To me... it looks like either your backing is too soft... or you are not being consistent with your angles.
Here is a hair splitting convex edge applied to an FFFBM... which is significantly thicker than the CGFBM.
Justabuyer took things further with his insane Hell Razor edge.
He does all his sharpening work by hand... but... I use an 8" buffing wheel for the final stages of sharpening.
I use sandpaper on top of a length of foam camping mat for the initial shaping at 180 grit.. then I remove the 180 finish with 600 grit... then the rest is done on the buffer.
Your knife is not ruined and it can all be fixed..... but... steepen the angle you are dragging the blade across the sandpaper... and check that your backing is not too soft... or you will continue to create what is an "over rounded" edge.
Hope that helps.
I was using two mouse pads stacked on top of one another and have since began using only one.
- Joined
- May 7, 2006
- Messages
- 3,338
I though you were as pure as driven snow...Machine assisted.... I can not bare the scandle.