Picture requests - tanker grey vs desert sage

This sage is pretty correct for tint. I don't have any tanker to do a side by side.

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I don't have a sage RMD but that is a tanker in the middle. Older version...

 
Thanks guys
That tanker grey is awesome
I thought i liked sage best, but not now
 
@ozgonner: Nice stripped Rodent 6 there at the bottom! :drool:
 
The current tanker gray is my favorite coating for anything that I don't already have plans up front to strip. Is is smooth, not crinkly. It also has a tendency to catch light in just the right conditions that it almost appears to have some kind of reflective properties. Almost like it has some kind of ceramic or glass particles in it. Very interesting coating. The only bad thing is I've read it is one of the more difficult coatings to strip.
 
Might be a stupid question but do you guys oil the coatings? Or just the exposed edge itself?
 
I just got in the habit of spraying the whole blade with wd40 then quickly wiping off excess with a dry rag.. coated blades are my beaters.
 
Hey does anyone know if i can rewuest black paper micarta instead of canvas? It is not a shop option but i much prefer it over canvas
 
You won't have to worry about rust any place the blade is coated. And the Busse coatings are very good in that I've never had moisture get under a coating or anything like that. They're done right.

I don't think you can get the black paper handles even by request right now. They were offered as a standard option when I ordered that sage/black paper RMD in the top pic. I'm not sure if they just sold out of that run of black paper or what the deal is.
 
Ahh that is a shame. Im not a fan of the canvas micarta to be honest.

But i am glad to hear that coating is good because i heard sr101 is verrrrry prone to rust. Ill take the negatives of coating over rust anyday
 
XtianAus said:
But i am glad to hear that coating is good because i heard sr101 is verrrrry prone to rust. Ill take the negatives of coating over rust anyday
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SR101 is no more prone to rust than any other carbon steel. And people have been using carbon steel blades for a long time. A little care is all that's required.
 
XtianAus said:
i heard sr101 is verrrrry prone to rust.
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...... this seems to have grown legs waaaaay beyond reality mate. As resin notes SR101 is no more rust prone than any other carbon steel, I think it has got the ill-deserved "rust prone" label when it gets compared to INFI during those discussions along the lines of "why should I buy INFI over SR101" and similar. There is NO doubt that INFI has BETTER corrosion resistance than SR101 but that does not mean SR101 is BAD or that one night out in the rain and your blade will turn to dust. Not by a bloody long shot. It has also been my experience that when SR101 does get a little surface rust it is just that, surface, a little use or a rub with an oily rag and it is gone without any sign of pitting etc.

Because I tend to cut meat/food with my knives I only use mineral oil to preserve them. When I am done I clean my blades with warm soapy water (in the bush they just get a wipe on a rag or my trousers leg - what I am describing is my cleaning routine back home) and dry, touch up the edge as needed and then clean again. Once I am all happy I have a shaving brush soaked in mineral oil that I brush over the steel parts.
 
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rockspyder said:
I don't oil mine at all, if they are coated.
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XtianAus said:
Do you have any rust issues?
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Little late... but no. I have naked blades that are carbon that don't get oiled, and don't have rust issues. Most of my uncoated Carbon blades have been used enough to get a blackish gray surface coating (I guess that is a patina). One or two have had a forced patina (mustard works pretty well). But I have one 1095 ESSE that I stripped, and it has been used to butcher deer. It has developed a beautiful bluish gray surface coating, even with washing. I think I do put a little mineral oil on it before I put it away.

But IME rust is way overblown. I have a carbon steel hatchet (Chinese made) that is a great cutter. I had been using it one day around the yard, and forgot to put it away. A week or so later I found it where I had left it, on a stack of bricks laying ON its sheath. You know, the only place it had much rust (and this is after it had rained on it) was where it had been resting on the sheath. Where the lower side had not rested on the sheath, it barely had rust. And the same on the top side. It still works fine, but has a nasty line across its side where it had been resting on the sheath. Cheap acidic sheath, I'm sure. Anyway, still perfectly functional. Wouldn't want to cut my steak with it. But I'm not entirely sure I would have wanted to do that without the rust. No knowing WHAT elements are in that metal hatchet.
 
Has anyone done a cold blue on their stripped carbon blade? I was curious if that would be a good way to put a nice forced patina to slow oxidation.

I also read somewhere that Busse has produced a blade with Parkerizing. Is that true? Because I think that would be a cool coating too. A Nib coating might be interesting too.

As far as rust is concerned, I've only seen small very light rust spots on coated SR-101, but they just rub off.

Occasionally, I use WD40.
 
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