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Pictures of your survival gear
- Thread starter InUtero
- Start date
Thank you, and yes I do. Now I will admit that I also take a fourwheeler on anything over a few miles. I got into the habit of carrying the rifle just this past year. We have had a bit of trouble with wild dogs on our property. Sorry boys, but this old man is starting to have trouble hitting anything over fifty yards with a handgun. Those dogs just won't stand still while I adjust the bi-focals.
- Joined
- Feb 18, 2005
- Messages
- 145
Dizos, Thanks for posting those pics!!!! You've given me a lot more ideas! I think it is safe to say that should you ever find yourself in a sticky situation, you are certainly prepared! 
Soup
P.S. I think it is incredible how much you can store in the Maxpedition waist packs. For anyone that hasn't tried them, you won't be disappointed!
Soup
P.S. I think it is incredible how much you can store in the Maxpedition waist packs. For anyone that hasn't tried them, you won't be disappointed!
Nice Stuff! What is the large knife you have strapped to the side of your pack?
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2005
- Messages
- 97
Dizos, that was a great pictoral feast!!!! i love those packs and pouches you have, it has given me MORE than a few new ideas on how to pack my stuff. Thank you 
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2003
- Messages
- 20,207
Dizos, is the strap the only thing holding the "C.U.T." in its sheath?
- Joined
- Mar 7, 2000
- Messages
- 458
Dizos, would you kindly ID the Max pouches that you are using...with some key as to the contents...how do you carry the pouches? belt mounted?
Geoff
Geoff
Thomas -- the sheath also has an interior plastic sleeve that holds the blade very tight.
The smaller pouch is a Maxpedition M1 and the larger the M4. The kit designs are modular. Typically I toss the kit(s) into my daypack or backpack, but they could be belt mounted if necessary. I was backpacking in northern New Mexico this weekend and had both the M1 and M4 included with my other backpacking gear.
The M1 just adds a bit more functionality to the smaller survival kit which, again, just adds to the EDC stuff I always carry (LM Charge, HDS LED, cellphone...). It holds the survival kit, knife sharpener in the flap pocket, compass, Pocket Chainsaw w/custom titanium handles, some paracord and a Swiss Firesteel w/chunk of sapwood.
The Pelican 1010 kit has:
Survival blanket
Micropur Water Purifier Tablets (makes 16 liters of water)
Fresnel magnifying lense
Vaseline soaked cotton balls
Bic lighter (with gas stop taped on to prevent accidental leakage)
Survival matches (NATO)
Fox 40 Slim whistle
Button Compass
Small Peak AA Cell LED
3ft piece of duct tape
Small Swiss Army keychain knife
30 piece of stranded steel wire
Signal mirror
Fishing kit with line, hooks, leaders, swivels, weights as well as some small safety pins and needle
Small spool of thick thread
Pencil stub and a few sheets of waterproof paper
This M4 kit is an expansion to the M1 funcitonality and includes a Surefire L4 w/McGizmo 2-stage switch and a Strider SMF. Also included is a MSR Miox water purifier. Extra lithium batteries in a little Otter Box as spares for the Miox and the SF L4. Nylon cord, 5mm rope, extra Platypus 2 liter water pouch, sunscreen, rag, lighter, waterproof notebook, Fisher pen, Militec oil and grease (double ended bottle), electrolytes and a bic lighter.
-- Dizos
randjack
BOUNCED EMAIL: I need to update my email address in my profile!
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2005
- Messages
- 128
Dizos: In my HO, you have done well. I haven't seen the lists of all your gear, but what you sent is great.
My suggestions: Water storage: 1 or 2 liter Platy's are good. Line: there is no such thing as too much line. My latest solution for myself may sound kind of trivial, but it works for me: get a good cedoar pencil (can be used as a pencil, obviously, or tinder) trim & square ends to length appropriate. Using metal Singer sewing machine bobbins, wind 80# or better Spider Wire onto one (I like the 80 because it is supple) and #69 nylon thread onto the other. Secure with sections of road/racing bike inner tube. Push them onto each end of the segment of pencil you have cut. Wind very, very tightly in between the two ends thus formed braided, not twisted, nylon flourescent mason line. (Wal-Mart, damn their eyes, or Home Depot) Using an VSR drill I get 35' of Spider onto a bobbin, and 50' of nylon thread. A 4" segment of pencil gets me 30' of cord wound in between the bobbins. Next, buy a spool of SS braided leader wire, making sure they have provided the right size crimping sleeves. I make up segments of line with a loop at each end in 3', 6', 9' and 12' sections, pre-form a loop on the end of what is left, and roll into a loose coil and put into a 3" x 3" ziplock with the rest of the crimp sleaves. Takes up no room, weighs nothing, and is VERY handy in a pinch -- or not. A little brass wire goes with it in my kits, or mild steel. Next, find a piece of gear to wind real 7 strand para cord around. For example, Terrill Hoffman had a great idea: he uses heavy saddle leather for his rifle slings, and Terrill also mounts a good button compass and a firesteel on his slings. He does great leather work, not to mention being the best prof. knife photographer in the biz. Talk about a niche market. Look for his latest knife design: the Hoffman Harpoon from TOPS.
I also did not see you listing any needles or an awl (Stanley #82-111, nice little awl with palm filling rubber handle, about 5" long) in your gear. Sharp pointy things are good. Safety pins, too. If you know how to sew, you can do a lot with curved needles you can't do with straights. Throw in one of those little needle threaders, because even if your eyes are good, if you are cold & tired, threading a needle is a bitch.
And, if you can carry 3' of duct tape, you can carry 30'. Wrap around a flat piece of plastic cut from most anything between 3 and 5" long. I also throw in a couple inch long piece of glue stick.
If you hadn't noticed, the theme here is raw materials, simple tools, and supplies from which to fabricate or repair other gear. Make sure you have one or mare multi tools which will give you pliers and scissors. Also: a hemostat, and a pair of good tweezers.
Ditch the BICs. They don't have adjustable flames, they won't take water, and if they run out of fuel and your take the metal shield off to use them as an improvised Spark Lite, the pin falls out and is gone forever.
Lastly: gloves - don't forget gloves. For $2.95 a pair you can get tough fabric gloves with traction dots and reinforced index and thumb from www.countrysupply.com, stock No. ERA21. They aren't exactly welding gloves, but they take up no room, and they are good to shoot with.
Sorry for the long post. I was in the process of repacking my gear.
My suggestions: Water storage: 1 or 2 liter Platy's are good. Line: there is no such thing as too much line. My latest solution for myself may sound kind of trivial, but it works for me: get a good cedoar pencil (can be used as a pencil, obviously, or tinder) trim & square ends to length appropriate. Using metal Singer sewing machine bobbins, wind 80# or better Spider Wire onto one (I like the 80 because it is supple) and #69 nylon thread onto the other. Secure with sections of road/racing bike inner tube. Push them onto each end of the segment of pencil you have cut. Wind very, very tightly in between the two ends thus formed braided, not twisted, nylon flourescent mason line. (Wal-Mart, damn their eyes, or Home Depot) Using an VSR drill I get 35' of Spider onto a bobbin, and 50' of nylon thread. A 4" segment of pencil gets me 30' of cord wound in between the bobbins. Next, buy a spool of SS braided leader wire, making sure they have provided the right size crimping sleeves. I make up segments of line with a loop at each end in 3', 6', 9' and 12' sections, pre-form a loop on the end of what is left, and roll into a loose coil and put into a 3" x 3" ziplock with the rest of the crimp sleaves. Takes up no room, weighs nothing, and is VERY handy in a pinch -- or not. A little brass wire goes with it in my kits, or mild steel. Next, find a piece of gear to wind real 7 strand para cord around. For example, Terrill Hoffman had a great idea: he uses heavy saddle leather for his rifle slings, and Terrill also mounts a good button compass and a firesteel on his slings. He does great leather work, not to mention being the best prof. knife photographer in the biz. Talk about a niche market. Look for his latest knife design: the Hoffman Harpoon from TOPS.
I also did not see you listing any needles or an awl (Stanley #82-111, nice little awl with palm filling rubber handle, about 5" long) in your gear. Sharp pointy things are good. Safety pins, too. If you know how to sew, you can do a lot with curved needles you can't do with straights. Throw in one of those little needle threaders, because even if your eyes are good, if you are cold & tired, threading a needle is a bitch.
And, if you can carry 3' of duct tape, you can carry 30'. Wrap around a flat piece of plastic cut from most anything between 3 and 5" long. I also throw in a couple inch long piece of glue stick.
If you hadn't noticed, the theme here is raw materials, simple tools, and supplies from which to fabricate or repair other gear. Make sure you have one or mare multi tools which will give you pliers and scissors. Also: a hemostat, and a pair of good tweezers.
Ditch the BICs. They don't have adjustable flames, they won't take water, and if they run out of fuel and your take the metal shield off to use them as an improvised Spark Lite, the pin falls out and is gone forever.
Lastly: gloves - don't forget gloves. For $2.95 a pair you can get tough fabric gloves with traction dots and reinforced index and thumb from www.countrysupply.com, stock No. ERA21. They aren't exactly welding gloves, but they take up no room, and they are good to shoot with.
Sorry for the long post. I was in the process of repacking my gear.