Picturs of my steels rusting test: H1, m390, ZDP-189, N690Co, CTS-XHP

I'm not going to bang my head against this wall, but here are the pictures for those who can't view them:
 

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spketch said:
I'm not going to bang my head against this wall, but here are the pictures for those who can't view them:
Click to expand...

Thanks.

OP, those are water spots. Small deposits of minerals left behind after the water evaporates. Depending on your quality of water you might see these on your dishes. The reasons I believe this is more likely are:

- They look like water spots, not rust spots.
- They are easily rubbed off, just like water spots, not like rust spots.
- The water spots appear identical between multiple steels.
- You simply used drops of water that you let evaporate, which causes water spots.
- You didn't exhibit proper control of your water variable.
- You didn't conduct an actual soak test, which would be more appropriate.

Wipe off your blades and put down your pitchfork.
 
calc said:
Thanks.

OP, those are water spots. Small deposits of minerals left behind after the water evaporates. Depending on your quality of water you might see these on your dishes. The reasons I believe this is more likely are:

- They look like water spots, not rust spots.
- They are easily rubbed off, just like water spots, not like rust spots.
- The water spots appear identical between multiple steels.
- You simply used drops of water that you let evaporate, which causes water spots.
- You didn't exhibit proper control of your water variable.
- You didn't conduct an actual soak test, which would be more appropriate.

Wipe off your blades and put down your pitchfork.
Click to expand...

Actually, you may be right. I have an idea how to test this, will let everyone know when done.
Thanks!
 
I keep one in the center compartment of my kayak year round. The kayak is on the ocean 6 days a week. The compartment is never rinsed out and the knife is always lying in 1/4" of saltwater. This particular knife has been covered in salt and saltwater 24 hours a day, seven days a week for the last year and has never been rinsed with fresh water. It has shown a tiny amount of rust at the clip screw. I believe that it comes from the small metal washer at the clip that is probably regular stainless. There has been zero corrosion of the h1 blade.

That's my most extreme example. My other salt knives have an easier life. They only go on the saltwater when I do which is 30-40 hours per week. They lay covered in salt and blood the entire time but they (sometimes) get a freshwater rinse when I come in. Aside from blade scratches from use and handle scratches from prying sharp toothed fish mouths open, they all look like new. ZERO corrosion. Zilch.


Interesting results you got op. I always appreciate other folks' testing and enjoy comparing notes. I would try the test again if I were you. Leave the saltwater on the blade for a few days...or a few months. It won't matter. :)
 
calc - you are correct, as well as those saying H1 does not rust.

THE RE-TEST:
Salt soak of H1 and palladium plate side by side. Palladium is a noble metal.
Both, H1 and palladium had the same spots after salt dried.

I stand corrected: only CTS-XHP and ZDP-189 showed true corrosion.
I'm glad I had the community help, now it is clear that H1, VG-10, M390 and Victorinox steels did not
show any trace of rust. The spots are solid residue from tap water.
Thanks to all.
 
Thanks for listening to reason and for doing the additional test. I apologize if I came off as rude.
Welcome to bladeforums.
 
Folding said:
calc - you are correct, as well as those saying H1 does not rust.

THE RE-TEST:
Salt soak of H1 and palladium plate side by side. Palladium is a noble metal.
Both, H1 and palladium had the same spots after salt dried.

I stand corrected: only CTS-XHP and ZDP-189 showed true corrosion.
I'm glad I had the community help, now it is clear that H1, VG-10, M390 and Victorinox steels did not
show any trace of rust. The spots are solid residue from tap water.
Thanks to all.
Click to expand...

Thank you very much for the re-test, that's a very interesting way to conduct it.
 
Can't really beat Surfingringo's experience, but I swam in the ocean and hung out on the beach with my SE Dragonfly in my pocket and had no issues at all.
 
I think your testing method is flawed a bit. H1 has no carbon in it and therefore scientifically CAN'T rust
 
I wouldn't consider VG-10 in the same league as H1 (though really nothing is in the same league as H1). I've gotten it to rust from my own sweat. Mind you, the rust was completely superficial and what didn't rub off with my finger was easily polished off with some Noxon, leaving no pits or trace of any kind that rust ever occurred. It also took a LOT of sweat. Still, VG-10 can be bested, though for what I put it through it is definitely very corrosion resistant.
 
calc said:
Hm, not working for me. Still curious as to how this statement is valid here:



Many, many before you have run more rigorous testing than you with different results. This would imply that your issue is with your testing method rather than the material itself, especially given that your results contradict the material science to some extent.

Additionally, you still have yet to propose a possible explanation for your results, which is just bad science. You can't expect people to take you seriously when you say "Event A happened, then Event B happened, therefore Event A caused Event B" without offering an explanation of possible causation. There could have been other contributing factors, and yet you feel confident in ignoring all of them. Just from memory, there have been examples of:

- The H1 logo rusting.
- Traces of other steel from the factory tools rusting.
- The rust actually just being a mold of some sort that dried off after a few weeks.

None of these are examples of H1 rusting, but instead somebody jumping to conclusions. I agree with spketch that the fact that you have to be so gentle that you don't wash it off makes your claim rather dubious. The lack of experimental control and critical thinking even more so.
Click to expand...

^This^

Several people have mentioned the H1 logo rusting, but it's actually different metal left over from tooling. There was a guy on another forum who claimed he got his Tasman to rust, along with photos. When it was suggested that it was actually a type of algae that had formed over it, and that the H1 itself was not rusted, the guy disappeared.

*Adding:

I just now saw the post on the retest.

Jim
 
table salt is a refined and manufactured substance with additives. you won't find it anywhere in nature. use sea salt.
 
calc said:
Thanks.

OP, those are water spots. Small deposits of minerals left behind after the water evaporates. Depending on your quality of water you might see these on your dishes.
Click to expand...

What?
You mean my plastic plates didn't rust???

Shocking! :D
 
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