Pid controlled [motorized] pressure regulator?

bladsmth said:
Bumped to answer more emails.
Seems like a lot of folks are interested in this.

There was some confusion caused by the way I quickly sketched the blower hookup. The TWO wires from the blower motor seem to be attached together. The common wire (marked as ground) is actually separate from the hot lead (the one hooked to the speed controllers).Sorry for the confusion. I'll try to make a larger and more detailed schematic later today.

Stacy
Click to expand...
It finally dawned on me:confused::eek::cool: that wiring the two fan controls the way you suggested works because the power takes the path of least resistance through the dimmers, when the pid is engaged.

Thanks again for your input, Stacy.:thumbup:

Fred
 
looks like im going to dig this back up. would i get a more even heat for heatreating with a cast liner. if i use a ventury burner would i just need 2 lines of gas to the burner. one as an idle line with a needle valve. and the other as the main with a solenoid valve and a needle valve. connect a pid to a ssr then that to the solenoid. then put the thermo couple inside a thermowell. am i on the right track
 
Just came across this thread after your very informative "pimp my toaster oven" posting. Thanks Stacy!

Has anyone here used a PID controller with a venturi burner based forge?

I would guess that if the regular and high settings were not too far apart that the burner itself would be able to compensate for the airflow changes reasonably well enough so as not to require a manual choke (airflow) adjustment.

I should just try the manual (no solenoid) version over the holidays - I think I'm just a trip to the hardware store away from having all the bits I need. I'll just use my PID to tell me when to open and close the HI side of the gas piping. I suppose I could give myself an electric shock to tell me when to turn on and off the hi circuit, but I think I'll pass. ;)
 
The two systems are different in concept. The one being discussed here has a manual gas/air input as one supply and the other being controlled with the pid. You set the manual input to run the forge under set point a few degrees; the pid controlled input will supply the gas needed in short burst. Its a very accurate system, keeping set point within 5 or 6 degrees.
I think the forge described in your link would fluctuate wildly when the burner went out. No fire no heat syndrome.
 
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