pid

Don't really know. For what it's worth, most of the longer hand probes I've looked into aren't rated for the temperatures you'll be working with. Also, it's got to be pretty good length so as to avoid burning up the wiring.

You may want to drill and install a K-type thermocouple like the one below in a fixed position in the forge. That way, you will have a consistent temperature reading of a spot in the forge, and you will be able to learn how the forge responds at different temperatures as read at that spot. A hand held is going to give you a greater amount of variance, not to mention be unwieldy at times. I guess if you really want a hand held, you could install this type of TC on some sort of handle and insert it into the forge. That will likely be your best bet to find something to handle the temps, but it may take a bit to come up to consistent temp, and I would expect the more frequent heating/cooling will likely wear the probe out faster than if it was fixed. Also, you'll have a 2300+ degree piece of metal that you'll have to find a place to sit down and cool off where it will not roll off or burn you.

sensor_%20kiln.jpg


--nathan
 
silver_pilate
can you tell me where you got yours. and which units you got.
vern
 
Here's where I got my TC. It's model number TC-K-KLN. It's rated to 2300F continuous use.

Auber Instruments

IMPORTANT!! This type of TC is for electric ovens. To use it in a forge environment, you'll need to purchase the ceramic shielding as well. It's available at the bottom of the page (model: TC-K-KLNSH).

The TC is $27 and the sheild is $18. I purchased a PID from ebay but it is very similar to the unit they sell here if you're needing a PID.

:thumbup:

--nathan
 
Pretty much any of them should work well. The two line units allow you to see your set point and your actual temperature. If you just want current temp reading, the one line should work well.

Are you planning on using the pid to control the forge temperature via an actuated valve which adjusts the propane flow? If so, there are some other guys here who can help you out with that more than I can. I've only used a pid on an electric oven, and I have a unit with a SSR output to control a solid state relay which turns the heating element on or off. I'm not sure about what's needed for gas valve/actuators (SSR vs. regular relay) in a forge setup. If you don't get the replies you need on this thread, you might start a new thread with a title about pid controlled forges.

Sorry if I'm not much help. :)

--nathan
 
I can tell you from experience, a PID is not something you want to use on a forge as a means of controlling temps. They work great for applications where you want single temps, but because it takes a little effort to change the setpoint, they can be a challenge for forging applications. That being said, one of the small PIDs, with a single readout makes an economical and very accurate pyrometer, when mated with a type K thermocouple from Omgea
http://www.omega.com/ppt/pptsc.asp?ref=JTIN&Nav=tema07

I would recommend going to Ebay and searching for "PID Temperature Controller". Most of the time you can get them for $34-$45.

I use PIDs on my salt tank, and on my quench tank. The one on the Salt tank controls a gas valve, and the one on the quench tank controls two 110V hot water heater elements that keep the oil heated.
 
Good first hand advice there. I would rather have the pid and thermo couple as a readout on a forge as opposed to a controller. You can control forge temp with your air and gas flow manually. I know the guy that i bought my pid from on ebay had the one line readouts for somewhere around 30. I'll look him up in the am. They look almost identical to the units on the web page i posted earlier. Good luck!

--nathan
 
thinks guys took you advise and not as a controller, now alli need is to know how to hook it up can't seam to read a wiring diagram.
vern

ps: need to know where you would put the probe
 
The type K thermocouple connects to terminals 6 and 7 of the littlest PID on Aubriens site (1/32 for $34.95). If as it warms up the temp drops instead of climbs you need to reverse the wires on thermocouple. You will also need 110v to terminal 1 and 2 and you should connect the ground to terminal 3. It should come set to use a type K thermocouple. I think it also come set to read in F. If you have problems let me know and I will try to help you out. I have 2 of these and think I have them kinda figured out. Jim
 
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