Pin fits hole in tang but not in handle material

Z

Zodog

Joined
Jun 25, 2012
Messages
3
Hello all,

I'm sure that there is a simple answer to this, but I haven't figured it out yet. I use the exact same drill bit to drill the pin holes through the tang and the handle slabs. The pin fits perfectly into the hole in the tang, but I have alot of difficulty getting the pin through the hole in the handle slab (sometimes I even lose my cool and try driving it through with a hammer and end up damaging the handle slab). I have tried removing a little material from the pin, but then it is a little loose in the tang hole. I have also used the drill bit to ream out the hole in the handle slab, but there must be a better way.

Any insight or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
I notice that alot also, It is just that the wood "gives" a little as the bit passes thru, and springs back when It is removed. I run the bit in and out a few times and that usually leaves me with a snug but not too tight fit.
 
I purchased a slightly oversized fluted reamer to take care of this problem. It adds a few thousandths to the size of the scale holes and makes a big difference without loosening them up too much.

I's also recommend dropping a couple of bucks and getting a small half-ton arbor press. This makes inserting and removing pins during construction a real breeze.

TedP
 
Google a drill bit chart. Buy and use the next larger size. Like for a 1/8" use a #30 or #29. Typically I just go to the next larger size, so in this case a 9/64 works for me.
 
I do what Ricky said. Snug is good. Really tight can cause problems, but I don't like pins that go in too easy. This happens with bone also, and with bone it takes getting a feel for the fit before you drive a pin through it.
 
There are a lot of different ways to fix that, I take a small round file and make it just big enough to have a very tight fit.
Joe
 
Next size up drill bit is best but in the mean time you can tightly roll up some sand paper and chuck it up in your drill press. An inch and a half strip is plenty. Turn on drill and ream with the paper from the inside face of the scale. Dont over do it, just a quick pass is normaly enough.
 
ricky_arthur said:
I notice that alot also, It is just that the wood "gives" a little as the bit passes thru, and springs back when It is removed. I run the bit in and out a few times and that usually leaves me with a snug but not too tight fit.
Click to expand...

+1

I also noticed this when I worked with wood and had to bring it back to the drill to "drill" it again. Works the second time around, so I started running it through a couple of times too once the bit is through the wood.
I dont like the idea of using a bigger drill bit, as I usually end up with a loose fitting later.
 
This happens with lots of handle materials. Micarta is especially notorious for closing in around pins.

You can use a slightly larger drill bit like mentioned. I usually use some a smaller drill bit with some 280 grit sandpaper wrapped around it so it fits snugly into the scale hole. Then ream it a bit by hand. Just a little bit at a time and test the fit often to get a really snug fit with my pin stock. I like to keep it snug enough that I might have to use a soft blow hammer with some light taps to get it out. Epoxy is strong and reliable if you use the quality stuff, but I like the idea of a really tight fit with my pins to help ensure that everything stays where it's supposed to.
 
Not if you use a bit that is very slightly larger. As an example, for 3/16 holes (0.1875"), I use reamers that are 0.188" and 0.190".

TedP
 
Great suggestions and many ways to skin a cat...

I use the next size up in a Wire Gauge bits (the one with numbers or letters #29, #30, F, etc...) so with 1/8" (0.125") I use #30 (0.1285"). To avoid the gaps you can tap the pins with a hammer to bulge them into the space, just don't do it too hard and split your handle materials.
 
Hi there, this is actually my first post, so hi to everybody!
OP: I had this problem too when I started making knives and found that, besides drill bit size (I use the same diameter bit as the hole for a good snug fit), there are two variables to control. The first being that the holes line up from the tang to the scales. What I do is when I have my tang holes in the metal, I only bond one scale on. Let it dry in a clamp, and then use the holes in the tang to go through the scales so they line up right. Then repeat the process for the other scale.
The second, trickier problem, is aligning the angle straight so the pinstock goes through straight. This is best done with A drill press to avoid any error. But if you can't afford one and are using a hand drill, here's a little trick to making a perfect hole. You can buy two small, inexpensive bubble style levelers. Then attach one vertically to the drill and the other one horizontally. This way when you drill, you just make sure the bubbles are centered, and you will have no problems getting a perfect angle.
Hope this helps, and good luck.
 
I chuck the pin stock in a drill and lightly sand it. Its OK to have the holes in the tang be a bit over sized as Epoxy will fill that in.
I'm gessing your not peening the pins in, if your peening the pins I use a tapered bit I made from the next size drill bit.
A big help for me was geting a small arbor press to press the pins in. Even lightly tapping them left me with a few that were buggered up.
 
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+1 on the arbor press. They are invaluable in setting pins. I seem to dry-fit my scales three or four times before the final assembly. And the arbor press (equipped with a short pin punch lets you push the pins in and out of the knife with less risk of damaging anything. All you'll need is one of the small 1/2 ton presses, which you can find for under $100.

TedP

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