Pin placement

M

Maelstrom78

Joined
Sep 21, 2013
Messages
1,574
Hi all,

I've got 3 pre HT blanks like this:

noyrr6.jpg


23ignd1.jpg


Messing around on my disc I'll get them to 400 grit. Then I should be good to go to send them off for HT correct? I'll just make sure my edges are at .02 for the one 1084 blank and a bit less for the 2 other 154CM blanks and then I should be good to go?

I'm not sure about the pin hole placement, however. Right now I have some 1/8 brass, 1/16 steel and some 1/4 aluminum (I believe) round pin stock. Oh and the bottle is a tre classy lamp.

What do you think? Thanks.
 
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Nice blade shape. I think the rear pin hole is too far forward. You could move it back a bit. And there's no harm in having multiple holes in the tang, even if you don't use them for pins. You could drill out a few larger holes in the tang as well. They will help with td balance of your knife once you put the handle scales on. They will also fill with epoxy when you put your scales on and make your handle stronger.
 
Pin placement looks fine to me, though I would suggest a couple of things:

1. Drill some "through" holes around the pins and throughout the handle portion of the blank so that your epoxy will have something to grab onto.

2. use a tapered pin reamer to taper your pin holes and then peen them into your handle. This will give a mecanical advantage in addition to the epoxy (I assume you're using epoxy anyway).

3. If using a natural handle material, one that is unstabilized, or something that can otherwise shrink or warp, put another pin a little closer to the pommel end of the handle. This will help keep gaps from forming or being as severe.
 
Maybe you're already doing this, but I always mark where I want to put the pin holes with a sharpie, and look it over so as to decide whether I like it, then center punch when I'm happy.
Just one of those little things that can make it simpler.
 
Maybe I can put a lanyard hole towards the back and then space the other 2 pins equidistant like this:

2yxohmu.jpg


I have some 3/8 copper tubing that have on hand. That would pretty much match the pins and I would think would work for a lanyard tube.
 
That would definitely work. I've used copper tube for lanyard holes and it looks really nice.
 
You have to be careful with lanyard placement what looks good on a 2D blade might not look good on a 3D handle. think about the finished shape of the handle first then choose the lanyard location
 
I have a couple OD green micarta slabs that I am going to try to coke bottle. I also have a nice black walnut board that is 1/2" x 8" x 18" but not stabilized. It was sawn from a black walnut tree that was in my yard when I was a kid. My Dad had a guy bring a portable sawmill over to make lumber so I was hoping to give him one of the 154 cm ones with that walnut on the handle. I am leery though of using unstabilized wood.
 
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