Pin spacing rule of thumb?

C

CDH

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Jun 8, 2007
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283
Is there a rule of thumb for pin number and spacing? This will be for slab handles. Currently I have been evenly spacing 3 large (1/4") pins down the center of the scales, but I want to try small pins around the perimeter for my next blade. It is to be a large blade, a camp knife or similar, out of 5160, with natural wood (probably mesquite because that is what I have the most to play with) scales.

How far in from the edge of the scales do you space them? What is a good number? Do you just eyeball it with what 'feels right' or is there a 'best practice' that I need to learn? I've looked at dozens of them pictured here and elsewhere and they all look weak, (to my admittedly inexperienced eye) like there is not enough meat left in the scales because the pins are so close to the edge.

Thanks in advance!
 
The pins are important but if you are using epoxy, their main purpose is for shear strength. Modern epoxy is pretty strong and usually will be all you need, but the pins are there in case the knife is dropped. The pins will keep the scales from popping off.

I would just place them where you think they look best and where they will offer enough functional support for the handle. If you are using small pin stock you may want to use a few more pins than if you are using larger pins.
 
I pretty much just put them where I need them and center them on the handle. I usually go about 2" apart. If the handle is big I may put 2 pins every 2". I prefer using corbies. I usually use pins for stag and for 1/8" handle material,
-John
 
I settled on .200" from the finished edge and about 1" apart. Too many pins will allow the handle to crack if the knife gets dropped. I oversize the hole one number drill size so there is room for epoxy and rough up the pin for the epoxy to grip.

If I have to drive the pins in there will be trouble with cracks later.
 
clw3 said:
... and where they will offer enough functional support for the handle. If you are using small pin stock you may want to use a few more pins than if you are using larger pins.
Click to expand...

That is my point, when using small pin stock around the perimeter (as opposed to putting them down the centerline) what constitutes "enough functional support"? It seems that too close to the edge would make the scale liable to chip/split out, and too far in would be less attractive to the eye. Yes I am using epoxy as well to seal the tang/scale joint.

I am experimenting with many different methods of attaching handles...I have tried Loveless bolts, hidden bolts, pins (3 down the centerline), and cutlery rivets thus far. Small pinstock around the perimeter was up next, just to give it a try more than anything else.

Unfortunately I have been limited to looking at pictures for inspiration and it is hard to get a feel for scale that way.

Bruce, thanks for your rule of thumb!
 
if you plan to shape the spine of the knife with a slight arc for palm comfort,,
then i would figure that in and at first it may appear that you are insetting the pins too far from the edge,,just picture your final product and work backwords.
....also,,choose your handle wood carefully,,i tryed "edge-pins" with bloodwood and it wasn't a good choise.
Skip
 
Just remember that to close to the edge results in handle material cracks and to close to center looks funny all the way around.Mr. Bumps measurments should be spot on for any knife but if you think that is to close to the edge draw a line around the handle until you find the spot that looks good to you.If you need more pins that the 1 per inch for looks then only peen the 1 inch pins and make the rest dummy pins for looks.

As for the number of pins for a handle,use what ever amount you want to give the desired look you want.

Good Luck,
Bruce
 
One note on aesthetics. Use odd numbers. Three per side, 5,7,...
Even numbers look harsh to the eye. Draw some pictures and you will see what I mean.
When planning a knife handle (or blade) draw it out and cut it out in cardboard. Draw the handle pins in. Move and change the set-up until you like the look and feel. Handle it, swing it, make cutting motions with it, etc. If all is right, use it for a template and guide.
Stacy
 
Bruce Bump said:
I settled on .200" from the finished edge and about 1" apart. Too many pins will allow the handle to crack if the knife gets dropped. I oversize the hole one number drill size so there is room for epoxy and rough up the pin for the epoxy to grip.

If I have to drive the pins in there will be trouble with cracks later.
Click to expand...

Thats comforting to know. I've been doing it that way and thinking I was probably being lazy about fit and finish. Thanks!:thumbup:
 
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