bigjim said:
...such a thick blade edge no matter how sharp I got it...it would not cut worth a dang.
Yes, sharpness is nice but you need a suitable profile for high cutting ability.
But if you look closely there seem to be very small chips in the edge..
Even an x-coarse hone doesn't usually leave micro-teeth so large you can see them, unless the angle is extremely acute, ~5 degrees or so. Even then it takes a really coarse abrasive like a 100 grit AO belt and the teeth are just barely visible at ~0.15 mm deep [that was a Mel Sorg custom in D2 if anyone is curious].
These teeth should be reduced as you work with finer abrasives and cut off immediately with any micro beveling. While I have seen some steels not be able to take a fine polish at very acute angles, it takes extreme angles, <10 degrees, and the edge irregularties are very small, you need a magnifier to see them. Is this the 1095 or stainless TOP's?
What could be the cause is simply too much of a jump from the abrasive which set the edge to the ones which finished it and thus not enough work was done with the finer abrasives. However when applying a microbevel it usually takes very little work. I can take an edge set with a 220 SiC hone and micro-bevel it smooth with as little as 2-3 passes per side on the medium and then fine Sharpmaker rods.
So yes I would be thinking bad steel. What I would do as a check (more work - hooray) would be reset the edge again with the coarse hone, form a full burr and clean it off with the x-coarse hone and note the condition of the edge. If the "chips" are consistent along the edge then you are seeing the teeth left by the hone, that is natural. However if they are focused in some spots and highly irregular in size then the steel is suspect.
Assuming they are consistent, use a slightly finer stone and raise the angle a couple of degrees and apply a micro-bevel. Immediately, as in after the first few passes you should note a massive difference in the edge finish, the teeth should decrease in size corrosponding the abrasive change. If this doesn't happen then the steel is likely faulty.
At this point I would vice the blade and crack it several times to check the flex limits and grain structure as since the blade is a write off you might as well learn something useful from it. But you would probably get a better responce from TOP's if you just sent it back to them in the as sharpened condition.
-Cliff