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Pins vs Rivets
- Thread starter shappa
- Start date
You did not say, but I'll assume you are putting slabs onto a full tang. Perhapse though, you are making a folder or something else. Regardless, you should be fine with pins. If you are using a good epoxy as a sealer between the slabs and the tang or between the scales and liner or etc, the knife will be plenty strong with glued in pins. All you need pins or rivets for is to add some shear strength to the epoxy. It would take something concetrated like a hammer and nailset to remove the pins. I doubt that your knife is going to see any similar service in real life. I have used JB Weld to seal scales to liners and superglued in 3/32" strait brass pins making a solid liner locking handle. And I don't even think I could tap the pins out with a nailset either.
The rivets would add axial strength as well as shear, but the epoxy is more than strong enough in the axial direction (like if you tried to pull the slabs straight appart from each other, where shear would be trying to "slide" the slab off of the tang). Hope this helped.
The rivets would add axial strength as well as shear, but the epoxy is more than strong enough in the axial direction (like if you tried to pull the slabs straight appart from each other, where shear would be trying to "slide" the slab off of the tang). Hope this helped.
- Joined
- Apr 19, 1999
- Messages
- 3,560
On thin bladed knives like fillet knives a simple pin often does not give enough support to the scales when the blade is flexed severely so I use a Corby style rivet to prevent epoxy bond breakage.
I have heard of some folder makers using Corby style rivets as pivot pins.
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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
I have heard of some folder makers using Corby style rivets as pivot pins.
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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com
- Joined
- Dec 14, 1998
- Messages
- 4,870
Another thought IMHO is to use screws.
If its a thicker handle you could try using pivot assemblies. This way the handle can be taken off and on and good right back into the same position .
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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!
If its a thicker handle you could try using pivot assemblies. This way the handle can be taken off and on and good right back into the same position .
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Web Site At www.infinet.com/~browzer/bldesmth.html
Take a look!!!
Pins are very pretty - if you're gonna use them, use lots. Just be careful you have a handle material that doesn't split easily, because they hold with friction and the holes should be drilled slightly undersized (in the scales - in the tang they can be a bit oversized to let the pins pass through easily). That gives a really tight fit and good hold, if the handle material can take the stress.
Rivets hold with that little lip on the stepped hole, so a tight fit is only important for looks, not hold. I love Corbies, personally - that big round metal spot looks like a giant pin, and is very secure. They can make a decent folder pivot, too, but are the priciest rivet. Loveless bolts are nice if you use two metals, like steel bolt and brass nuts, because they give a nice contrast. I don't care for them too much because there always seems to be a little gap where part of the threaded bolt is sanded off. Lukes haven't got much going for them, IMO - just like Corbies except you have to take care not to cut too deep or they look like Loveless bolts... kinda the worst of both worlds. Cutlery rivets are just for cheap stuff, and you have to be very careful not to take too much off of the very shallow heads.
In summary, I like Corbies for an attractive, secure fit, pins for beauty or to supplement the Corbies in tight spots, and Loveless bolts for the occaisional flavor.
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-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
Rivets hold with that little lip on the stepped hole, so a tight fit is only important for looks, not hold. I love Corbies, personally - that big round metal spot looks like a giant pin, and is very secure. They can make a decent folder pivot, too, but are the priciest rivet. Loveless bolts are nice if you use two metals, like steel bolt and brass nuts, because they give a nice contrast. I don't care for them too much because there always seems to be a little gap where part of the threaded bolt is sanded off. Lukes haven't got much going for them, IMO - just like Corbies except you have to take care not to cut too deep or they look like Loveless bolts... kinda the worst of both worlds. Cutlery rivets are just for cheap stuff, and you have to be very careful not to take too much off of the very shallow heads.
In summary, I like Corbies for an attractive, secure fit, pins for beauty or to supplement the Corbies in tight spots, and Loveless bolts for the occaisional flavor.
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-Drew Gleason
Little Bear Knives
- Joined
- Oct 15, 1998
- Messages
- 3,556
Thanks guys,
I did forget to say that they would be used on full tang knives. 3 1/4" blade lengths for 2 small daggers and a 7 1/2" slicer my father-in-law made that i'm finishing for him.
The daggers will get cocobolo, zircote, or a rosewood. I also plan on making a wood sheath for at least one of them. Something rich, dark, and warm looking. The slicer will get micarta or stamina wood since I know the knife is going to end up being tossed into the dish-washer (cringe).
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~~TOM~~
I did forget to say that they would be used on full tang knives. 3 1/4" blade lengths for 2 small daggers and a 7 1/2" slicer my father-in-law made that i'm finishing for him.
The daggers will get cocobolo, zircote, or a rosewood. I also plan on making a wood sheath for at least one of them. Something rich, dark, and warm looking. The slicer will get micarta or stamina wood since I know the knife is going to end up being tossed into the dish-washer (cringe).
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~~TOM~~
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
- Messages
- 115
What about using G10 or micarta pins? Granted, they won't be as strong as brass or steel pins, but they should be sufficient right?
Spencer
Spencer
- Joined
- Dec 14, 1998
- Messages
- 4,870
They work fine
- Joined
- Oct 4, 1998
- Messages
- 427
I have used micarta pins quite a lot.
There are two different types, the paper based and the linen based.
IMO the paper pins are too fragile unless you are using them in a significant size, 1/4 or so in diameter..If you can find the linen based pinstock, please contact me, I use mostly 1/8th inch pinstock and havent been able to find the linen based pin lately, only the paper based that I have a problem breaking when assembling the knife parts....
Alan Folts...
There are two different types, the paper based and the linen based.
IMO the paper pins are too fragile unless you are using them in a significant size, 1/4 or so in diameter..If you can find the linen based pinstock, please contact me, I use mostly 1/8th inch pinstock and havent been able to find the linen based pin lately, only the paper based that I have a problem breaking when assembling the knife parts....
Alan Folts...