Planer for sizing scale stock

[BMK]

Has anyone used a planer for sizing wood and composite scale stock?

Like this one:

 

[woodwrkr221]

I have an older model, essentially the same thing. Fed plenty of lumber through it, but no composites. Whadda ya wanna know?

 

[stephanfowler]

the auto feed mechanism will have trouble with anything less than 12" long.

 

[tedinatl]

also, be careful about planing composites. The blades spin very fast, and can cause burning/melting/chipping, etc. I think slow-turning drum sanders work better. For wood stock - no worries, as long as the stock is longer than 12" long.

 

[woodwrkr221]

I don't recall off the top of my head what the exact specs are but most planers won't plane down any thinner than maybe 1/4" thick. Also planers are known for "sniping" the ends of the boards. There are two rollers inside the planer, one infeed roller and one outfeed roller, and the cutterhead in between. When the infeed roller is on top of a board and the board hasn't yet reached the outfeed roller, the cutterhead will quite often "snipe" the end of the board for perhaps two inches or so, making the snipe thinner than you desire, then when the board reaches the outfeed roller and rides up onto the board the cutterhead begins planing the board at the proper thickness. Then the same thing happens in opposite order as the other end of the board begins coming out of the planer. Some planers do this more so than others. Lifting up slightly on the end of the board furthest away from the planer while the end nearest the planer enters (or exits) the planer can help prevent sniping.

The result of the sniping is that you waste four or five inches of the board. If your lumber in 10 feet long and you allow for sniping that's no big deal, square one end and cut the other to length. If your board is only twelve inches long you just lost a big chunk of your work piece.

 

[johnnym]

That planer will bite on the first 5 inches on the infeed and the last 5 inches on the outfeed. In other words when i use a small planer like that i cut the board about 10 inches longer than i need it because both ends will be too thin. Also you will have a hard time feeding anything shorter than 12 inches into it without the auto feed failing.

-John

 

[RayseM]

I have no experience whatsoever with planing composite material & I would never even try it on a thickness planer, however I have owned this very machine (slightly older model) used exclusively for woodworking. Reasonably nice planer surface & really no snipe to be concerned with, but the tooling of the machine leaves much to be desired. 1) Try changing out knives after 6 months & you will not be able to remove the screws from the cutter head (this is a problem I also had with a small Delta jointer- froze up the knives to the extent that I had to throw it out), 2) cutter head bearings don't last. I am - this week waiting on a delivery of a Makita 2012NB 12-Inch Planer to replace my problem portable Delta planer. The Makita is reputed to be the best of this size machine. Remains to be seen. Would not buy another Delta. Yes, these little guys spin fast. I'd guess that a sander would definitely be better for composites.

 

[ERIK KNIVES]

I wouldn't even think about putting composite stock in a thickness planer. Or on a jointer. Buy the thickness you want when it comes to composites. You could work hardwoods on that with many fine passes, but with the mentioned waste, it would only be economical in larger quantities.

 

[Makermook]

That planer is great for wood and snipe shouldn't be much of a problem at all as long as you take shallow passes. I've used one for ~20 years and only found snipe issues when the stock is long and cantilevers as it rolls in and out. With 2" wide, 1/2" thick and 24" long wood, no, you aren't going to get enough snipe to lose 5" off either end. Provided, again, you take light passes; if you try to hog out 1/8" with each pass, you'll mess it up.

I wouldn't use it for anything that might melt, though.

 

[johnnym]

no, you aren't going to get enough snipe to lose 5" off either end.

Are you accusing me of over estimating size? Geez, now you sound like my wife

BMK, you could always upgrade to one like this. That way you will only loose about 3 inches on both ends.



I use this performax drum sander to adjust the thickness on scales. It works great even with short stock, it works fine with synthetics and also works with very thin stock.

 

[BMK]

Thanks for the information and advice. The planer will come in handy after the resaw stock comes off the bandsaw. It sounds like composites are out though.

 

[Fiddleback]

One other reason not to use a planer for phenolics is that they'll dull the blades, and they're a real PITA to change out and re-setup.

 

[DanCo]

Fiddleback is right. I am replacing my blades on my 15 in. grizzley planer today because I did try and run composite through it. It burns the material and made the cutter head so dull I am not sure it would cut butter now. If you take the time and calibrate your planer and set it up right then snipe shouldn't be an issue. Also don't run any boards less than 12 in. in length, that becomes a safety issue. Good luck.

 

[woodwrkr221]

If you take the time and calibrate your planer and set it up right then snipe shouldn't be an issue.

Depends on exactly which brand and model of planer you have. Some do, some don't, some might, some more so than others.

 

[grelcar]

I have an older 12" Delta benchtop planer. I call it the Snipemaster. I have found ways to help minimize snipe but the only way I found to eliminate it is to run a longer sacrificial board alond side the good board. I have also used this method to plane smaller pieces. I haven't tried to run any composite material through it and don't plan too. I once tried to use a hand plane on some micarta, dumb Idea, didn't work.

Greg

 

[woodwrkr221]

You can also run your boards end to end with the ends of the boards butted up against each other. Begin with a piece of scrap, run the work pieces end to end and then finish up with another piece of scrap butted up against the end of the last work piece.

My 12" Delta benchtop planer is perhaps the same one you have. My 15" Makita leaves a beautiful finish with sharp knives and isn't nearly so prone to snipe as the Delta so long as I'm paying attention to what I'm doing. If my concentration wavers either one will leave horrible sniping on either end of the board.

 

[1066vik]

if you're planing short (under a foot) or thin (under 3/8" final thickness) pieces of wood, use carpet tape to stick them to a longer piece of "1 by" for safety and ease. make sure your grain is lined up and don't plane to final thickness - leave room for a little bit of finish sanding.
all that said, I have a Delta 12 1/2" planer (older version of the one pictured) and it's been great, no significant problems with snipe when using an outfeed roller on long stock.
good luck!