PLASMA ARC CUTTING

H

hagen

Joined
Dec 3, 1999
Messages
7
CAN ANYONE TELL ME IF IT'S POSSIBLE TO USE A PLASMA ARC CUTTER TO CUT THE SHAPE OF THE BLADE; WITHOUT HURTING THE STEEL'S EDGE HOLDING/TEMPERING PROPERTIES? IF IT IS POSSIBLE; WHICH STEELS WOULD BE BETTER SUITED TO WORK WITH? THANKS FOR YOUR TIME! HAGEN.
 
Welcome to the Forums
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I've never used plasma cutting for knives, but a company I worked for a year or so back used a computer controlled (CNC) plasma cutter to cut aluminum sheet. The edges were very rough, and severely melted. I certainly never considered asking them to cut out a knife blank for me, but I can't say definitiively that plasma cutting is bad for knives. With better options (laser, water jet) available, I would tend to shy away from plasma cutting. Hope this helps.

--JB

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e_utopia@hotmail.com
 
Plasma cutters will work for knife steel, plasma slag is hard and will need to be removed from the edges. Cut oversize and grind back to good metal, there will be a heat affected zone which is minimal compared to oxy-acetylene. Are you buying, or contracting this work? The tips used in the plasma cutter must be sized to the thickness of the material.If you are buying, ask for a demo on your material.

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Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about!
 
a lot of the simplier steels will harden at the edge where you cut it...the more complex stainless ones can handle the heat a lot better but i would still cut them oversized a little and grind off the super blue part just to be safe...severe over heating of steel burns the carbon out of it...probably the most critcal element in knife steels.

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i use one, just cut it big enough so you can grind off the HAZ, like tom said. they cut quick.
 
Many thanks to those who replied!!!! I run a CNC plasma cutting machine at work. I've cut many hatchets and swords for people I work with. Can anyone give an estimate as to how much oversize the blank should be. 1/8" or 1/4" ? As for the more complex stainless steels; can anyone give me some numbers like 440c,440v, ats34,?????? Thanks again, Hagen
 
Hagen,cut a piece of stainless,and check the blue line on the side of the cut piece leave enough that you can grind past the super blue line as Tom mentioned. The blue stuff will be the heat affected zone, don't know for sure how much this changes the steel, but to be safe I would grind off this line.The steels you listed are all the complex ones I believe Tom was talking about. they have more added alloys to make them work better.
 
Thank's Mike!,
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I've just started to venture into this.And i'm pretty clueless as you can prolly tell. Can you tell me, when grinding a blade do you have to keep it cool by dipping in water or just not get it that hot to begin with? Any info greatly appreciated!!! Hagen.
 
Hagen,you don't have to keep it cool until grinding after the heat treat, I grind my blades with bare hands (I don't like wearing gloves around moving high speed machinery) so when it gets uncomfortable to hold I dunk it in some water.

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If winners never quit and quitters never win. What fool said quit while you're ahead?
 
well I cut the really hard sawblade (about 3/8" thick) with it and started making a combat mechette. well everything went fine with cutting, then I put the sucker in the vice to start the edge, and about a quarter of the handle snapped off.
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Another question, I cant spend $600. on a belt sander. I've seen a few around $300. from TX. Knife supp. But they dont look worth $150. Sears has some nice craftsman models 1/2 hp. 2" x 42" belt and a 8" disc. Not variable speed though. For $130.00.
Would that be enough to get started, or the wrong direction altogether? Thanks again.
Hagen.
 
these aren't wood cutting sawblades, they are for metal cutting, think of a 4 foot long hacksaw blade which is about 3 inches wide.

I wish I had a camera because the blades are flippin huge!
 
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