Plate quenching O-1

coop7

coop7

Joined
Apr 9, 2012
Messages
318
I tried this a while back on a slipjoint I made and it seems to be successful, I don't really have a scientific method of testing the edge though. Has anyone else tried this?
 
If I recall correctly, O1 has 10 seconds to get past the pearlite nose. So if you're quick about getting it between the plates, it should work. Especially thin blades, and especially if you grind your bevels after heat treat.
 
would not try with thicker then 3/32 stock and i woudl nto put much bevel on before HT. i hae done this with a few kitchen knives and from pulling out the kiln to in my bare hand was about 8 sec. testing went OK but since i know there are guys out there that have trouble even gettign CPM154 to full hardness out of the plates you may or may not be able to make it work.
 
Don Hanson III said:
I would doubt you are getting full hardness.
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Probably not, but it seems to be enough for my personal use. I used 3/32 stock and did all the grinding post HT. Here's a picture, it turned out OK for my first attempt, an ant among mountains compared to your work Mr. Hanson.
MY2GYpu.jpg

I've since sanded the handles a little more, but terotuff is a pain to get a good finish on.
 
I may be wrong but I'm thinking you'll have a large percentage of Pearlite. Why not use A2?
 
While I have limited skill, I've pulled .110 o-1 steel from the kiln, put it in Parks 50 within two seconds, and vertically cut it up and down in a quick manner inside the quenchant till cool, and haven't had one warp yet.
 
coop7 said:
Probably not, but it seems to be enough for my personal use. I used 3/32 stock and did all the grinding post HT. Here's a picture, it turned out OK for my first attempt, an ant among mountains compared to your work Mr. Hanson.

I've since sanded the handles a little more, but terotuff is a pain to get a good finish on.
Click to expand...

It's just too easy to quench into oil and get full hardness. After 8-10 seconds pull out of the oil and check straightness, you have about one minute to correct a warp, I do it buy hand. If still warped, clamp to a thicker piece of steel, aluminum, etc. and temper. Comes out straight every time.
 
Thanks for the tempering tip, I'll have to remember that one. I usually quench in oil for o1, I just wanted to try the plate quench out of curiosity.
 
When hardening flat stock blanks ( profiled, but bevels ground post-HT), what some makers do is quench in oil and after 3-5 seconds, remove and immediately clamp in the plates for 60 seconds. The oil will get the steel past the pearlite nose and then the plates will lock the blade flat while it drops into and through the martensitic range. I've done this on thin 1095, and am sure it would work fine for O-1.
 
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