Platen Idea.

Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
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Hey guys. Maybe I just want to feel like you brilliant guys building machines but I have been thinking about a platen idea that would have less friction (less heat) and only one problem I can think of now.

I will try to explain this as clearly as possible.

So, you know the slightly supported attachments for slack belt that uses a rubber belt over 3 wheels but not the drive wheel? Think of that as the wheel set up for this.

Now what if you used a fine linked chain. (the best example I can think of is similar to the chain for wrist watches) The chain would be 2 inches wide (well a tad less) and would drive around those three wheels like on the slack belt attachment.

This chain would be able to fold outward but not inward. This would allow the chain to move around the wheels but act like a solid flat platen. The chain would be overlapping links that lay flat against each other when inward pressure is applied. The friction and heat of the belt running against the unmoving platen would be eliminated.

I am not sure if you would want the chain driven or simply moved by the sanding belt.

The problem I see with this is the noise and vibration of a quickly moving chain. I am not sure what levels of precision can be achieved with a chain or what levels would be required.

What do you think? If you think it could work, what would you add or change?

Sorry again but my computer won't let me access imgur so here's a link to my example page.
https://www.barefootblades.com/Bladeforums-example.html

Stay sharp,
Ian
 
No matter how ridged it is, there will still be flex. Probably better to stick with a heavy platen with glass or ceramic glued on.

Hoss
 
I think this is a solution in search of a problem.

Won't work for several reasons. The two biggest are that it will not act like a solid platen, and it would sound like a tank driving at 60 miles per hour. It would also likely rapidly chew your belts up from the back side.

The standard platen setups work well. Glass platens, platen chillers, rotary platens, etc. No need for a new wheel shape.
 
Apart from the occasional zap from static, the neoceram glass is great. I'm not in too much of a hurry to try other things, apart from maybe trying a chiller at some point.
 
The hinge pins linking the bits of chain together will produce a significant amount of friction and heat at higher RPMs. Totally beating the purpose.
Also in case of failure, you'd not want a metallic chain flying around your shop at those speeds.
 
except for the fact that the chain is longer and not solid (thereby, in theory anyway, reducing heat up) it would still get hot due to friction of the moving chain. wear would be another issue, as would lubrication of the chain itself. And man would that thing be loud.
 
I figured as much. Thanks guys!

I will need to use some glass. Does any glass work? I have some plain window glass probably 3/16 thick. Also my grizzly came with a graphite pad on the platen, I had to remove it because it was soft and made convex grinds. It was very slick though and I noticed less slowing under heavy pressure with it. Is there anything like this that is hard so it won't make convex grinds?
 
Go to a local glass shop and ask for "fireplace door glass" its sold under various names including pyroceram and neoceram. Last time I bought some it was $14 Canadian for a platten size piece. I epoxy it on, Frank used double sided tape. Its usually recommended to have a pin under it, but neither Frank or I ever did, and neither of us have had an issue.
6 months of daily use per piece is a reasonable expectation. Well worth buying the proper stuff.
 
Hey guys. Maybe I just want to feel like you brilliant guys building machines but I have been thinking about a platen idea that would have less friction (less heat) and only one problem I can think of now.
Even if this works , at the end will be more expensive to make then to buy SIC plate ;)
 
I got a shop tour from a local knife maker in my town. He showed me how he used a double stacked belt on his grinder at times. I can't for the life of me remember why, but I think it had something to do with adding some padding behind finer grit belts. I think there are leather belts that can be used in a similar way. ...and cork / ??
 
I got a shop tour from a local knife maker in my town. He showed me how he used a double stacked belt on his grinder at times. I can't for the life of me remember why, but I think it had something to do with adding some padding behind finer grit belts. I think there are leather belts that can be used in a similar way. ...and cork / ??

Basically a rotary platen but you can't track the belts independently so they need to run close to the same. Just softens the grind a touch.
 
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