Please approve/critique my 1095 HT recipe

B

BKT

Joined
Feb 15, 2016
Messages
167
First of all, I realize 1095 is a bad choice for a HT rookie, but its what I have for now. I usually rely on Peters but they have told me their turn around time right now is 15 business days and in my situation that is unacceptable, so I am doing what I have to to make this work.

I am going to place the knife in my forge and adjust the propane flow to get a scrap piece of steel up to 1475* and do my best to hold it there. I am measuring this with a digital pyrometer. Once I am able to do that, I will put my knife in the forge, heat to 1475* and let it soak for 10 mins. I will immediately remove it from the forge and plunge it quickly, straight as possible, into Parks 50. I will leave it still for a moment and then move it back and forth inside the oil. After it has cooled below critical, I will allow it to drop to around 150* and place in an oven at 400* for an hour.

I am hoping this will get me where I need to be in terms of hardness. For hardness I will of course try the file test, and also attempt to drill the tang with a cobalt drill bit.

If I follow these steps exactly, do you believe that I can achieve a well hardened blade? Please give any critiques possible.
 
You're basically quoting the recipe for 1095, so it should work.
However, depending on the condition of the steel, and how well/bad dispersed the carbides are, you may see problems.

I have had good luck with a first normalization cycle at higher temperature to homogenize the carbon, followed by a couple of cycles of grain refinement at a lower temperature. Then to quench.

But I have to say, since I got a hardness tester, I have found soooo many f*ups...
 
I can drill the tang on hardened 1080 pretty easily with a cobolt drill bit.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
 
kdogmcg said:
I can drill the tang on hardened 1080 pretty easily with a cobolt drill bit.

Sent from my XT1095 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Something's not right there. If you austentize and quench 1080 in oil, you should not be able to drill it with regular drill bits. Do you quench the tang too?
 
gammarad said:
You're basically quoting the recipe for 1095, so it should work.
However, depending on the condition of the steel, and how well/bad dispersed the carbides are, you may see problems.

I have had good luck with a first normalization cycle at higher temperature to homogenize the carbon, followed by a couple of cycles of grain refinement at a lower temperature. Then to quench.

But I have to say, since I got a hardness tester, I have found soooo many f*ups...
Click to expand...

I got the steel from Aldo, so hopefully its some quality stuff.
 
S.Alexander said:
Something's not right there. If you austentize and quench 1080 in oil, you should not be able to drill it with regular drill bits. Do you quench the tang too?
Click to expand...

Agree, shouldn't be able to drill it at all without carbide.

On L6, even after tempering a carbide bit will have serious trouble, and 1084 isn't much easier.


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