Please critique my first design

R

Robert Dempsey

Joined
Dec 28, 2018
Messages
11
Hi everyone!

I've been considering making knifes for a while now and decided to give it a shot. I've lurked here a bit but just made an account and this is my first post. I'm from Niagara County in Western New York. Any locals nearby? Comment below even if you can't help with my design critique!

Anyways, I am going to try a paring knife for my first build. I plan on using the knife for a bit until I build a better paring knife with a more appropriate steel. Specifically, I will be using it skin apples and pears and also quartering grapes.

The steel I chose for this prototype is 1084. I chose this based on beginner steels I learned about on this forum. I plan on using prefab micarta for scales as this will be used in a USDA inspected animal facility. I will use some sort of stainless for my daily user after I finish my design....I'm not that far yet though.

Anyways, I'd like some constructive criticism about the design. I am trying to keep this as simple as possible as it is my first build as I have limited metal working tools at this stage. Blast away at the design and I will listen to all CONSTRUCTIVE criticism!

Thanks everyone. This forum has been a very helpful resource so far. Looking forward to helping others when I'm capable.

 
Good looking, basic, tried and true design!

Make sure you use an appropriate sized pieces of steel. 1/8” will be FAR to thick for a paring knife, so go with some super thin stock or give it a dramatic distal taper and a full flat grind!

Go forth and make great things, you have a great plan!
 
Aw shucks, I thought 1/8 would be good. Well, it's what I've got now....luckily I have files? (Please say yes haha). Thanks for the response. Very helpful.
 
Willie71 said:
I prefer very simple handles on most small knives.

F66E8F3E-CA21-4CF8-9113-09F8B86FF090 by Wjkrywko, on Flickr

These are 1/16” and 3/32”. Ffg. They are bird&trout, rather than paring knives, but remove the finger guard and it’s a paring knife. I just heat treated a fewin 0.040” aeb-l.
Click to expand...

Thanks Willie. I really like your knife designs! Those handles look great. I'll keep it a paring knife as I'm not ready to try guards yet. Do you have any opinions about using 1/8 for my knife? I'm not 100% committed on a paring knife and am willing to try another style (boning or skinning?) if the width would be more appropriate.

I just want to make things I will use.

Once I've learned the basics, a chef's knife is my goal as that is what I use the most of the time. I have a lot of design ideas about them but have a lot to learn before I get to the point of making a blade that large.
 
Robert Dempsey said:
Thanks Willie. I really like your knife designs! Those handles look great. I'll keep it a paring knife as I'm not ready to try guards yet. Do you have any opinions about using 1/8 for my knife? I'm not 100% committed on a paring knife and am willing to try another style (boning or skinning?) if the width would be more appropriate.

I just want to make things I will use.

Once I've learned the basics, a chef's knife is my goal as that is what I use the most of the time. I have a lot of design ideas about them but have a lot to learn before I get to the point of making a blade that large.
Click to expand...

1/8” is thick for this style of knife, but it’s a bit easier to heat treat than thinner stock, as it’s less likely to warp. Don’t overthink this. Keep it simple and execute it well. Add features once the basics are second nature. I use 3/32” for skinners, and 1/8” for hunters. Make a few edc knives for all around use, and then get thinner stock later. Enjoy the process and have fun.
 
Robert Dempsey said:
Thanks. Is that for ergonomic or aesthetic reasons?
Edit: regarding the added length to the scales
Click to expand...
ergonomic reasons. But it depends how you hold and use the knife. I personally don't use a paring knife (because I'm too lazy to change knives when i'm doing food prep) so I'm not an expert on the subject but from my experience from other knives I think it would be more ergonomic if the handle scales were a bit longer.
 
Like someone above said don't over think it,just make it and see how it looks.then make another then another.
It's all practice and your rate of improvement will be huge
Knife looks good btw,although I like a parer with short handle and palm swell but thats just me
 
Great tried and true design. Most paring knives are very similar because they work:

QDyrMkI.jpg


cLSAyjb.jpg


The last two I did. Honestly for your design I'd just find a piece of AEB-L in .040-.070 to work with and send it out for heat treat. Particularly if you are working with files. Save your 1084 for a good edc design with a taller blade and your 1/8" stock would work great for that. Lot less filing on both projects and a much more effective blade, that will last in use, in each case too:

W3tLPTt.jpg
 
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Still needs a lot of shaping (especially at the index finger groove) and I need to figure out bevels but this is where I am at. All comments welcome. I'm happy for my first attempt even though it is ugly. This was roughed out with an angle grinder and files. I thinned out the handle as suggested here.

 
Robert Dempsey said:
Still needs a lot of shaping (especially at the index finger groove) and I need to figure out bevels but this is where I am at. All comments welcome. I'm happy for my first attempt even though it is ugly. This was roughed out with an angle grinder and files. I thinned out the handle as suggested here.

Click to expand...

I like to use carbide burrs for shaping a tight radius. I now use a small wheel on the grinder, but the carbide burr was my go to before that. If you have the right file, it’s pretty easy too.
 
I getthem at the local bumper to bumper. They’re about $25.00 to $30.00. They last a very long time on annealed steel, and will even cut hardened high alloy steels. Much more cost effective than using lower quality abrasives or burrs.
 
I'm sure you have his planned but don't forget pin holes and bolster holes if you plan on installing them.

You may also want to drill additional holes for the epoxy to adhere to.

Design looks good. You lost a little of the belly in profiling but that's ok.
 
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Well, experiment is over. I got a little to frisky with grinding bevels and ruined it. Gonna start a new build.
Being this is 1/8, I think I'm going to make an EDC/Hunter. Very wide, with a slow sweeping curve. Time to draw it up...4-6" blade? I'll see how it looks.
Thanks to everyone who has offered me help so far. I have listened to it all and appreciate it!
 
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