Please double check my 1095 HT process

J

jawilder

Joined
Jun 27, 2006
Messages
2,331
Prepare for Heat Treat:
1. Profile
2. Drill
3. Mark scribe lines as well as height line
4. Attach File Guide
5. Grind 45 degree angles on edge to scribe lines
6. Grind from Scribe line to height line
7. Double check thickness of edge (.020" to .040")
8. Hand sand to 220+
9. Soften all edges with 400 grit
Normalize:
10a. Heat oven to 1550 (843c), insert blade, come back to heat and hold for 5 minutes. Remove blade and air cool
10b. Heat oven to 1450 (788c), insert blade, come back to heat and hold 5 min. Remove blade and air cool
10c. Heat oven to 1350 (733c), insert blade, come back to heat and hold 5 min. Remove blade and air cool
Clay Coat:
11a. Clean with Windex and apply thin coat of Satanite
11b. Apply a thick layer of clay on top 1/3 of blade and spine. Clay should be as thick as the blade
11c. Allow to dry
Hardening:
12a. Heat kitchen oven to 400
12b. Heat Parks 50 to 120
12b. Heat oven to 1450 (790c), insert blade, come back to heat and hold for 7 minutes
12c. Quickly quench in Parks 50, edge down
12d. Count to five seconds and remove blade. Count to five seconds and insert blade until cool
12e. Remove oil while quickly taking blade to heated temper oven
Tempering:
13a. Temper in 400 degree oven for two hours. Cool to room temp
13b. Remove clay and put blade in straightening jig
13c. Temper in 400 degree oven for two hours. Cool to room temp
Test Blade and raise tempering temp if need be

Thanks, Jason
 
Looks good.

I would quickly scrape off the clay ( what is still there) while still warm from the quench oil, but that will not make any difference otherwise.
 
My only question is why are you heating the Parks #50 to 120? That is right at the upper end of its temperature range of 70-120. Unless it is below 70 in my shop, I use it a room temp as do many folks I know.
 
My understanding is that the viscosity of the oil lowers as the temperature of the oil rises. You make a good point about the oil being at 120 since that is already the highest in the 50-120 degree range.
 
For a clay quenched blade, should I scrape the spine clean of the clay so that the clay is on the side only?

Also, would a thin coat of clay be good during the normalizing process to decrease scale or should the blade be clean during that process?
 
The entire spine should be covered.

If the normalizing is being done on a sanded blade just before HT, then a clay wash is probably useful.
If you are dealing with a just forged blade that will have grinding/sanding done after the normalizing and before HT, then you can just stick it in as is, but the clay wash won't hurt..
 
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