Please educate me on Scandi's. Thank you!

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Brommeland

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Jul 28, 2003
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Hey everyone,


I have almost always used either FFG or convex grind knives for outdoor stuff. My only experience with Scandi's (until today) has been with Moras.

Today my first true scandi grind knife arrived - an Enzo Trapper. As soon as it got here I headed for the wood pile and started to play, and quickly discovered that this little knife absolutely spanked my Bravo 1.5, a TOPS BOB, an LT Wright Genesis FFG and my Battlehorse Essiac in FFG.....

I made multiple fuzz sticks, batoned cross grain some thumb sized sticks and shaved down a bunch of green limbs. I went inside and cut some rope, sliced some paper and cardboard, cut up 9oz veg tanned leather scraps and then sliced down a roast for my wife (raw - I sliced it into steaks for the grill). The Genesis and the Bravo both did well (except for the Bravo slicing meat- - way too thick), but the Trapper excelled at everything. The FFG Genesis was a hair better at slicing meat, but the difference was miniscule.

I chose the Trapper because it has a rather high scandi grind, and my assumption is that this will make it cut more aggressively and slice with less drag than a knife with a steeper grind. However, the handle, while comfortable, is a bit too small. I absolutely love how a Genesis feels in my hand, but the grind looks pretty steep by comparison.

So, here's my question: Is the Trapper's performance typical of a scandi grind blade, or is it's geometry better than the steeper grinds? Will I get cutting performance like this from a scandi Genesis?

Also please feel free to make recommendations for other scandi grind knives. I now see more clearly why so many people love 'em, and I believe that I am going to sell off a bunch of convex and FFG knives and get a couple of scandi's as soon as I figure out which one to get. Barring that, I may get some Trapper blades and put longer handles on 'em. I dunno yet which way to go. Any input would be appreciated.

Suggestions? Thanks in advance to all who post a reply.
 
Definitely grab yourself a Mora or two. They helped me greatly when I was first learning about the grind, also helpful to practice sharpening technique on a less expensive blade.
 
tknife said:
Definitely grab yourself a Mora or two. They helped me greatly when I was first learning about the grind, also helpful to practice sharpening technique on a less expensive blade.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply. I've got tons of Moras. They have a fairly shallow grind compared to the Trapper and they most definitely do not cut as well. I'm trying to determine whether the higher grind on the Enzo is an advantage over more shallow grinds like those found on BHK's and LTWK's. Do you have any time with them in comparison to the Enzo? Thanks again.
 
Interesting. I have found that my Mora's cut much better than other, even custom knives with Scandi grinds.

Unfortunately, I have not had the chance to use an Enzo. I would think the higher grind id contributing to the cutting ability though. The Mora grind is pretty shallow in comparison, but the thin stock cuts like crazy for me.
 
What is the steel type of the Enzo vs. your Moras? This could explain some of the cutting difference you experience.

Also, you stay the Enzo is your "first true Scandi" knife. Well, a Mora is a "true" Scandi also. Not trying to be annoying, just trying to prompt more information about why you feel the Enzo is a different experience. It may be the Enzo's relatively "high" grind or it may be a matter of perception.

Scandis work so well on wood prep and carving/splitting -- in part -- because after the edge makes the initial bite into the wood, the wide wedge of the Scandi profile acts as a kind of tiny splitting maul that pries the wood apart and saves the actual cutting edge from further abuse. This is also the reason they aren't the best at fine slicing and food prep, because those materials don't want to be pried apart, and you need something like a flat grind to do clean and smooth work. But this might be why the high grind on your Enzo seems to be a good compromise.

Sometimes the a high Scandi grind is more prone to chipping and rolling. If you find that to be a problem, a quick convex edge using sandpaper on a mouse pad is the way to go. :thumbup:
 
Hi again,

My Enzo is O1 steel.

I guess that by strict definition my Moras are a "true scandi". I stand ( well sit) corrected. What I'm trying to say is that I have never used any scandi grind blades before except Moras, so I don't know what to expect from a scandi grind made by another maker/company.

I really like the handle profile of the Genesis, but their scandi grind geometry is pretty shallow. A question for TKnife: IIRC, you had a Genesis scandi. How did it cut in comparison to a Mora?
 
The genesis cut quite well. With the 1/8" stock and super slick polished edge, it was a great cutter. Since the blade is about twice as wide as a Mora though, it was not as nimble.
 
Sorry to hear the Enzo Trapper handle is small, but it is not a large handle
The Enzo Camper has a much bigger handle but has a secondary grind because the knife blade is 5"

The Trapper is a deep scandi with a zero grind
Because the angle is so acute I had some trouble with minor chips
I took it to course waterstones and took them out
Now for quite a few years the blade is excellent

The classic Mora and the Laminated Moras and the discontinued Triflex all have zero or near zero grinds and are similar to the Enzo
 
LTs Scandinavian grinds have a secondary convex which makes them perform differently. I called and talked to Scooter about it when I got my LT thinking it is a pure Scandinavian. He advised I keep it convex when re sharpening. FYI.
 
I bought a Genesis back when they were promoting them as a true zero degree bevel but it came with a sort of micro convex secondary. I think they hard buff them to achieve that but it was not a true zero degree. Emailed with the dealer and with LT himself. LT changed the website wording.

Sent from my LGMS769 using Tapatalk
 
I understand why LTW hard buffs their edges - it is a super fast way to get a screamin' sharp edge. However, I am coming to believe that I am probably going to get better performance from a true zero grind scandi. So far, my Enzo has held an extremely good edge with no micro chipping or roll-over. I am thinking that maybe I'll just buy a blade and make my own handle and extend it another 1/2" or so.

Thanks again to all who have posted.
 
I get some edge rolling with a Mora. Like you, I used to think it had to be zero ground. Now I think a scandi grind at 12d per side or lower with a convex microbevel is the best of everything. Strop in the field or anytime then periodically grind the whole bevel the way a scandi is normally sharpened. It works.
 
GreenOwl said:
I get some edge rolling with a Mora. Like you, I used to think it had to be zero ground. Now I think a scandi grind at 12d per side or lower with a convex microbevel is the best of everything. Strop in the field or anytime then periodically grind the whole bevel the way a scandi is normally sharpened. It works.
Click to expand...

This is pretty much what I've discovered too. To sharpen a scandi, I've learned to give it just a couple of strokes on a ceramic V sharpener at 17 degrees, and then two more light passes at 20 degrees, followed by stropping. This totally restores the edge and leaves just a hairline convexed secondary bevel. I did this a bunch of times on a Mora to practice. When the micro bevel got too big, I put some 400 grit sandpaper on a flat stone to restore the zero grind, and then finished it with 600 grit and a light stropping on the flats of the grind. It works great.
 
I think they are excellent I've used both of those models perty hard and they hold up. Handles are great I've experienced no hot spots with pro longed use
 
I'm not a expert with scandi grinds, but their game processing performance has never enthralled me. Though a thinner, traditional puukko might change my mind.
 
Conveded edges tend to bite less in wood, while making tighter curls. In the first cuts, especially if just peeling, you may feel like the edge is sliding instead of biting.
A FFG may have a more acute angle in the bevels but the edge must have a secondary bevel to avoid fragileness, so again they tend to bite less.

As for other knives to use, you may take a look at these. If you liked how the EnZo performed you might really like how a rhombic blade performs.
https://nordiskaknivar.wordpress.com/2013/01/13/yrjo-puronvarsi-blades-yp-taonta/
http://www.yp-taonta.fi/PUUKOT/index/index.html

Blades are handforged as shown, only the steel is currently 1075 instead of 1070. Brass ferrules and rivets are made Lauri Metallin Oy (a company producing also stamped blades used in Kellam knives). Sheaths are made by the factory of Kari Rämäkkö.
So, YP-Taonta puukkos have handforged blades, handles roughed out with machines and finished by hand, factory made brass parts and sheaths. To me they are a very good value for money if you want to try the rhombic section without going custom.
As you see on the Nordiskaknivar post the bevels are firstly grinded on a circular clay stone, so they tend to be very mildly concave while the edge is just a hair convexed.
 
The cow said:
I'm not a expert with scandi grinds, but their game processing performance has never enthralled me. Though a thinner, traditional puukko might change my mind.
Click to expand...

What knives have you used for game that didn't meet your expectations? In what way did they disappoint?
 
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