Please educate me on Scandi's. Thank you!

Thank you to all who posted. One last question: I have an LT Wright Genesis in FFG. This thing is screamin' sharp, but that polished edge seems to lose it's "bite" pretty quickly and it needs to be stropped often when I'm using it. I have the opportunity to get a great deal on the same knife in Scandi, but I am hesitant regarding that polished edge that LT uses. For those of you who have "hands on" with a scandi Genesis, how well do they "bite" into wood, and how long do they hold an edge when compared to an O1 zero scandi grind? I need to pull the trigger on this deal today (if I'm actually going to get the scandi). Any feedback would be very helpful. Thanks, guys.
 
OK, to follow up after a bunch of "hands on" time with them, I have discovered that I pretty much hate scandi's. I tested a couple of different Moras, a Kellam Wolverine, an LT Wright Genesis and a couple of Enzo Trappers in O1. They cut wood like little beavers at first, but (except for the Genesis and Wolverine) micro-chipped and/or rolled an edge pretty quickly. However, the Genesis' edge was too slick to really bite without a lot more effort than the others.

By contrast, the Kellam's performance was truly in a class by itself. It eats wood like nothing I've ever seen with zero edge damage and superb edge retention. That differential heat treat in the Laurie blades is something to behold....

All things considered, it just seemed to me that the scandi's were simply too fragile for an all purpose tool. (I did, however, keep the Kellam and order a spare for the times in which I truly would like to have a scandi. Of all the knives tested, that Wolverine impressed me the most by far).

I've concluded that either FFG with a convexed edge or a full convex grind is much better suited for most camp/trail/hunting/bushcraft kinda stuff. YMMV
 
Brommeland

May I suggest
Two Companion Moras, one in carbon and the other stainless ($20)
Zero grind them and use them
then put a micro edge on them
See what happens

The Moras holds edges and don't destruct
I have had much success with them
Another suggestion, do not pry with the blade (cut in then pry out), keep cutting the material and cut from the other side
 
neeman said:
Brommeland

May I suggest
Two Companion Moras, one in carbon and the other stainless ($20)
Zero grind them and use them
then put a micro edge on them
See what happens

The Moras holds edges and don't destruct
I have had much success with them
Another suggestion, do not pry with the blade (cut in then pry out), keep cutting the material and cut from the other side
Click to expand...

Neeman,

I've done just that, and have experienced the very same result. I do see a need for scandi's for certain applications. I kept my Kellam Wolverine (and have another in-bound as a spare) for such situations. I just believe that a general purpose knife needs to be either convex or a convexed FFG.....

I'm also eyeballing the Garberg for those same applications....

Shalom.
 
I have quite a few scandi grind knives. No moras though. My O1 steel Spyderco Bushcraft knive will shame any mora kinfe. :) And that's a production blade. All of my custom knives will do even better.

Now you need to get a set of water stones, and practice. That is the secret to a good scandi blade, no matter the vendor. :)
 
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I have a couple of customs from Aaron Wolf
Mears clones
Superb workmanship with black walnut handles
Zero grind with 1/8th 1095

Don't know if he still works

A set of Chorosa waterstones takes care of my scandis
 
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