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Please explain benefits of tip-up carry
- Thread starter VegasNick
- Start date
- Joined
- Jul 27, 2005
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- 322
NeedleRemorse said:
Ditto.
A seriously cut femoral artery is a life-threatening emergency....can you say, "bleed to death in 2 minutes"?
- Joined
- Feb 5, 2005
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- 857
Regarding tip-down...
Personally, I've found that a few knives that have either rought spines (i.e., some decorative chisel work, or just texturing to give your thumb a better grip) are downright painful to rub up against when I reach into my pocket for my wallet or whatever. For example, my Spydie Natives have what I call 'dull serrations' on the spine for thumb control. They're tip-up; if they were tip-down, it would probably get uncomfortable to reach into my pocket!
So, for me, the texture of the spine is a bigger deal than tip-up or tip-down -- I can deal with tip/clip configuration, but there's not much I can do about spine texturing unless I want to work some serious mods on a knife!
Personally, I've found that a few knives that have either rought spines (i.e., some decorative chisel work, or just texturing to give your thumb a better grip) are downright painful to rub up against when I reach into my pocket for my wallet or whatever. For example, my Spydie Natives have what I call 'dull serrations' on the spine for thumb control. They're tip-up; if they were tip-down, it would probably get uncomfortable to reach into my pocket!
So, for me, the texture of the spine is a bigger deal than tip-up or tip-down -- I can deal with tip/clip configuration, but there's not much I can do about spine texturing unless I want to work some serious mods on a knife!
Another "vote" for tip up carry. The ergonomics of the knives I carry seem to demand tip up pocket carry... at least for the way I carry and open them. I would not pocket carry any folder with a blade that doesn't stay securely closed all the time. I've eliminated one "assisted folder" from pocket carry for this very reason. I use a belt sheath for that one when I decide I want it with me.
Just basic rules-of-thumb stuff I happen to find out on my own and agree with what others have shared -
Tip Up - leans more towards defense, as it readily positions you hand to "grab n' grip" your knife. It's the same stress mechanized "muscle memory" when drawing a sword/fixed knife/gun.
Tip Down - leans more towards utility, because is positions the hand more towards the balance point for the finer action of manipulating or handling of the knife.
Also the higher you place your knife on your body (chest pocket, neck carry, shoulder rig, backpack strap, suspenders, etc.), tip down wins.
Whatever "strops your edge" will do though.
Tip Up - leans more towards defense, as it readily positions you hand to "grab n' grip" your knife. It's the same stress mechanized "muscle memory" when drawing a sword/fixed knife/gun.
Tip Down - leans more towards utility, because is positions the hand more towards the balance point for the finer action of manipulating or handling of the knife.
Also the higher you place your knife on your body (chest pocket, neck carry, shoulder rig, backpack strap, suspenders, etc.), tip down wins.
Whatever "strops your edge" will do though.
I've found that Tip configuration is simply a matter of personal preference. My only thoughts are:
1) I have difficulty if i switch from one to the other after prolonged periods, because regardless of how each individual grabs the knife, the hand position is very different depending on the tip orientation.
2) Tip-Up bigger folders with longer handles, for me, are hard (slower) to open if I use the hole or stud and can't flick or flip it open using momemtum without the stud. The reason for this is because when I grab the handle to pull the knife out of the pocket, I can only index the bottom 1/5th (rear) portion of the handle. Once the knife clears my pocket my thumb is still toward the very back of the handle furthest from the hole/stud. From that point I prefer to flick or flip the knife open without using the hole/stud, but that is not always practical (hard on some knives, freaks timid people out, risk dropping/throwing the knife, etc). If I must use the hole/stud after the draw I have to slide my hand forward on the knife to reach the hole/stud. Whereas a tip down knife only has to be piovted into full grip and the thumb is already where it needs to be.
Tip down knives are harder to flip/flick open (less momentum) but easier to access the hole/stud for me the way I grab the knife.
Your mileage might vary.
I've also noticed that on some of my knives that have studs (especially my Benchmade Axis lock TSEK) which is tip up only, the stud will sometimes snag my pocket on the way out as I draw. If it snags on a tip UP knife the blade opens part way as I draw.
If it's a tip DOWN knife and the stud catches, is just slows my draw and eventually rips up my pants.
1) I have difficulty if i switch from one to the other after prolonged periods, because regardless of how each individual grabs the knife, the hand position is very different depending on the tip orientation.
2) Tip-Up bigger folders with longer handles, for me, are hard (slower) to open if I use the hole or stud and can't flick or flip it open using momemtum without the stud. The reason for this is because when I grab the handle to pull the knife out of the pocket, I can only index the bottom 1/5th (rear) portion of the handle. Once the knife clears my pocket my thumb is still toward the very back of the handle furthest from the hole/stud. From that point I prefer to flick or flip the knife open without using the hole/stud, but that is not always practical (hard on some knives, freaks timid people out, risk dropping/throwing the knife, etc). If I must use the hole/stud after the draw I have to slide my hand forward on the knife to reach the hole/stud. Whereas a tip down knife only has to be piovted into full grip and the thumb is already where it needs to be.
Tip down knives are harder to flip/flick open (less momentum) but easier to access the hole/stud for me the way I grab the knife.
Your mileage might vary.
I've also noticed that on some of my knives that have studs (especially my Benchmade Axis lock TSEK) which is tip up only, the stud will sometimes snag my pocket on the way out as I draw. If it snags on a tip UP knife the blade opens part way as I draw.
If it's a tip DOWN knife and the stud catches, is just slows my draw and eventually rips up my pants. 
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2004
- Messages
- 6,997
Frag said:I've also noticed that on some of my knives that have studs (especially my Benchmade Axis lock TSEK) which is tip up only, the stud will sometimes snag my pocket on the way out as I draw. If it snags on a tip UP knife the blade opens part way as I draw.
Take it a step farther... get a waved Emerson so you can kill two birds with one stone. Open the knife and rip your pants simultaneously in one smooth, fluid motion.
Peace.