Recommendation? Please give input on this bevel grind...

All this.

thin, shallow grinds are difficult. And in fact, FFG will be even shallower. Thin material moves as you grind it.

I grind with a work rest and push stick. Very "close to the machine", lots of feel. But also the blade doesn't get grabbed and pushed around as much. HOWEVER: there is risk to grinding very THIN blades with a work rest as it can get sucked through the gap between the rest and the belt.

So far my only use of a jig is for grinding harpoon profiles where the 'poon causes issues dragging across the work rest. ('poon could be ground in AFTER bevels too to skip the jig - if jigging isn't desireable for some reason)
 
Cushing H. said:
Lol. Fair enough.So... what kind of jig would you recommend?
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Through the years I make maybe ten different jigs .I end up with this simple/best one......square stainless tube , glue blank with CA and I m in business , works for me :)
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Natlek - i am not sure what i am looking at. Blank attachedto square stock, end of blank on work rest while grinding? How do you adjust angle - tilt the work rest? If so, we are talking just a couple degrees - how do you get that kind of accuracy on thevtable angle?
 
Cushing H. said:
Natlek - i am not sure what i am looking at. Blank attachedto square stock, end of blank on work rest while grinding? How do you adjust angle - tilt the work rest? If so, we are talking just a couple degrees - how do you get that kind of accuracy on thevtable angle?
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Yes , blank was glued with CA on one side of that square tube , no contact blade/work rest .I level up edge with tube edge so I can repeat position when I grind other side .Yes again ..tilt the work rest . Accuracy ? To easy .....just tilt work rest little and make one light pass to see where was material removed .After that simple I know how much to tilt +/- work rest . If necessary I adjust angle , depend what I want ...to grind more toward spine or to grind toward edge more...When i finsih one side I HAVE right angle for other side .......and grind goes fast for that side. Sometime I use angle meter application in my phone ...
I hope you understand my broken English:)

PS . That gray tape on picture...have two purpose .FIRST is...I tape blank to jig in right position, then I raise little knife and CA glue on jig and press knife on jig .This way is easy to get correct position when gluing blank .If I use CA direct you know what can happen , first contact and blank is glued ...on good or bad position :) Other purpose is ..IF in any case the CA glue loosens... that tape will hold blank so disaster can not happen :D
 
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I do understand the english - thank you ! What do you do about cooling the blade when hot? Just put the whole jig (blade and bar) in water?
 
Cushing H. said:
I do understand the english - thank you ! What do you do about cooling the blade when hot? Just put the whole jig (blade and bar) in water?
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Yes :) Other thing why I love this jig .........When I hold jig with hands ONE index finger is always right behind tip of blade so I have excellent feel for temp . + jig is pulling a lot of temp. from blank .....because almost all blank have contact with jig .And most important blade can not flex....
 
I've posted this here before. It's a jig I made when starting out that is very easy to use and more importantly easy to adjust and dunk in water. I don't use it much anymore except on difficult blades like the one you were trying or the ulu in the video. Just try grinding a Saber grind on an ulu with nothing to hold on to with sub .1 stock.


Note that I have 3 adjustment rails but only ever use 1.
 
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