Please help me find the perfect one-hand opener

CS 4 Max Scout for a heavy duty outdoors type folder it's alot of knife for the price or just get a nice little fixed blade. Although that's another can of worms to open. 😁 Have fun the hunt is often the best part of looking for or finding a new knife. 👍
 
Aren’t we all knife Karens to some extent?

I’m going to be the European guy who says Victorinox Sentinel. Inexpensive, reasonable quality, no super steel

Edit: the one hand version of the sentinel
 
Its almost like you wrote an add for a Large Inkosi Insingo but don’t take my word for it…..



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Shorttime said:
Let's be honest, this is at least three separate knives with partly overlapping use-cases.
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This.
1. Delica for large item like apples, boxes and the crazy effers that seem to be coming out of the woodwork.
2. Swiss Army classic for around sheeple and Karen's.
3. In jeep, machete.
 
The Axis Lock family, now used by several manufacturers, is one of the easiest as well as reliable mechanisms for easy opening. There are a number of models and different steels available.
 
Both a Victorinox One hand Trekker and a CRK of your choice would be the best to clean and maintain. Although I would always prefer a fixed blade for outdoors, even if just a small one. Honorable mentions: GB2 and Doug Ritter RSK. I wouldn't want to disassemble them in the field, but the RSK can be easily turned into a fixed blade if the spring fails.
 
Thank you all for the suggestions! All great options -- almost too many!

The Sebenzas are very nice -- but $400 is out of my price range. I should have specified that I'm not looking to spend more than $150 or so.

I prefer liner locks because they are simple (no grasshopper springs or ball bearings), and allow the knife to be easily closed one-handed without changing your grip or closing the blade on your hip (or flicking it back down) as with a lock back. I realize they're not the strongest, but I don't do cutting tasks which stress the lock. It's basically just a safety.

I was about to go with the RAT 1 -- my only nit-picky issue is the amount of non-functional space between the finger choil and the blade. That's the part of the blade where you get the most leverage in a power cut, and on the RAT 1, it looks to be about an inch apart.

Now I'm strongly considering the Spyderco Tenacious in S35VN (thanks for the suggestion David Mary David Mary ). Reading up on this steel, it seems to be okay to sharpen. Not like carbon steel, but I think I can get away with my oxide stones and my small diamond plate. I've read it will respond to a leather strop with compound, so I think this will be okay without any additions to my sharpening setup. Doesn't need to pop hairs, and I prefer working knifes a little toothy anyways.
 
kobold said:
Although I would always prefer a fixed blade for outdoors, even if just a small one.
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LostCause said:
I'd just get a fixed blade and call it a day...
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I have some Mora knives for purpose-specific bushcrafting. My quest for a flat/convex ground, fixed blade, carbon steel knife for the woods is also underway however, as I'm moving away from Scandi/pukko knives (sharpening is kind of a chore, lots of edge rolling/chipping during batoning, not ideal for food prep).

I'd like a solid, larg-ish folder to ride in my pocket while carrying a frame pack, or urban EDC, as an all-around utility knife that can be used one-handed.
 
If your price point was closer to $260, the Benchmade Mini Adamas would be my pick.
 
demko ad20.5?

I have two 20s's now. I never actually found a 20.5 in person to play with but prefer american made. So you can find the 20.5 in stock a lot of the time in various steels and handle colors. It is made overseas but the lock is one of the strongest out there. Imho the shark lock, that both of these have, is the best lock for one handed operations. I can use it bare handed or with my thickest winter gloves without issue. One spring inside but how it's designed I doubt it will ever break and it's really easy to take apart and put back together. Also has bearings n not washers on the 20s Id guess the 20.5 does too.
 
rjc149 said:
I have some Mora knives for purpose-specific bushcrafting. My quest for a flat/convex ground, fixed blade, carbon steel knife for the woods is also underway however, as I'm moving away from Scandi/pukko knives (sharpening is kind of a chore, lots of edge rolling/chipping during batoning, not ideal for food prep).

I'd like a solid, larg-ish folder to ride in my pocket while carrying a frame pack, or urban EDC, as an all-around utility knife that can be used one-handed.
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rjc149, take a look at Viper Knives from Italy. They have a few solid folders in N690 for around $150. Maybe the Start in micarta would work well for you.

Fox also has a few that might be interesting to you. I actually had the Fox Pro hunter back in the day. Supremely comfortable knife.
 
Kizer at least the ones I have have amazing action, very good finish and the steels they use are well done.
 
rjc149 said:
my only nit-picky issue is the amount of non-functional space between the finger choil and the blade
Click to expand...

Agreed. This is one of the reasons I am such a fan of the Resilience and Tenacious.
 
Dav1 said:
Kizer at least the ones I have have amazing action, very good finish and the steels they use are well done.
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I think this is your answer. Lots of models, and their D2 models are always on clearance
 
rjc149 said:
Thank you all for the suggestions! All great options -- almost too many!

The Sebenzas are very nice -- but $400 is out of my price range. I should have specified that I'm not looking to spend more than $150 or so.

I prefer liner locks because they are simple (no grasshopper springs or ball bearings), and allow the knife to be easily closed one-handed without changing your grip or closing the blade on your hip (or flicking it back down) as with a lock back. I realize they're not the strongest, but I don't do cutting tasks which stress the lock. It's basically just a safety.

I was about to go with the RAT 1 -- my only nit-picky issue is the amount of non-functional space between the finger choil and the blade. That's the part of the blade where you get the most leverage in a power cut, and on the RAT 1, it looks to be about an inch apart.

Now I'm strongly considering the Spyderco Tenacious in S35VN (thanks for the suggestion David Mary David Mary ). Reading up on this steel, it seems to be okay to sharpen. Not like carbon steel, but I think I can get away with my oxide stones and my small diamond plate. I've read it will respond to a leather strop with compound, so I think this will be okay without any additions to my sharpening setup. Doesn't need to pop hairs, and I prefer working knifes a little toothy anyways.
Click to expand...
FYI, if you ever get into customs you will find many are liner locks (both sides can be made with exotic materials unlike framelocks) and unless you are batoning, liner locks are plenty strong these days.
 
rjc149 said:
Unfortunately I don't live in the USA. I live in New Jersey.
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I just moved out of central NJ to Kentucky, I understand. Check for knife shops near you that you can stop in and handle some knives, quick google search should pull up a few. I used to live relatively close to the Flemington Department store, they used to have a decent selection of knives.

If I remember right theres a relatively big knife store somewhere in central-northern NJ. They have spyderco, benchmade, and a few other big name brands. I’ll see if I can find/remember the name of the place

There is also a custom leather shop in New Hope PA, owner is a knife guy, sells knives made by local makers. They also have a decent selection of production knives, little small but they’re helpful there and good people.

Kevin
 
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