Please help with soldering a guard!

C

coty

Joined
Feb 13, 2001
Messages
11
I'm having trouble soldering a 303ss guard to an ats-34 blade. This is the first time I've tried it, and I'm beginning to get frustrated. The guard fits fairly tight (a matchbook lid might slide through, but only if you forced it). I purchased the flux and solder from Texas Knifemaker's Supply, and am fairly certain it's not that. I'm following directions from the Loveless book, "How to Make Knives," and the only other thing I can see is that it isn't clean enough. What do most folks clean the joint with? (I'm ashamed to admit that I just used dish soap). Would acetone (sp?) work better?
 
You are probably getting it too hot.... the guard material you are using is NOT the easiest...have you ever soldered a nickle silver guard before? I would suggest you start with that and keep with it until you get good at it.....and pray!!!
smile.gif


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http://www.mayoknives.com
John 1:14
Love is Stronger than Death!
 
You should clean all of the contact points to make sure there is no oils on the metal. Try using a scotchbrite pad to clean the surfaces and then pour the flux to it. Also when you heat the metal, both the blade and the guard need to be at the same Temp.,Heat it slow and from the bottom to just the point were the solder will flow into the joint.Goog Luck. Tim

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Tim Duncan
 
I clean the joint with acetone first. Very shortly after applying heat to the joint I use a large sewing needle to apply a thin bead of flux to the joint (all the way around). I continue to apply the heat until the flux just begins to bubble and thenI begin to touch the solder to the joint and wait for it to begin to flow. As soon as it does, I remove the heat slightly and then keep adding the solder while intermittently adding the heat. This keeps the temp at melting but doesnt overheat the joint. I might add that I apply the heat to the underside of the joint.

I have found the key to a good solder joint is NOT to overheat the joint. It takes alot of pratice and just when I think I have mastered it, the next knife goes to crap!!

Email me if you have any specific ???'S
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I've just finished cleaning the blade and guard up, and am about to go try again.
 
Hi Coty you didnt say what you are useing for heat. I bet it is a torch, I had a lot of problems till I got rid of it and started using a heat gun. Mine came from ACE hardware for about 20.00 plus the nozzel set which was about 6/8 bucks.I also put the guard on after I coat the inside with paste solder, peen the pin then wipe off the excess and apply the flux only where you want the solder to go. Heat the joint evenly and when it starts looking slivery it is time to add solder. Use a 3/32 tapered and rounded stainless pin to push through the joint and the solder will follow the pin. Then while the solder is hot I scrape the excess out with a brass 3/32 pin. Try it and see how it works. Give me a ring and I can give you more details. Good luck, GenO

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GenO Denning
CavemanEngineering.com
 
Ed Kalfayan suggested that I try this solder and flux combo that Koval sells. This stuff comes in a little bottle with the solder wrapped around it. The flux is pink. I brought it over to a good friend of mine, who has been making knives for 30 years or so. He tried it on some stainless guards and CPM440V and wont go back to his other stuff that was working just fine. I cannot remember the name of the stuff, but it works better than most other stuff for stainless. Call Koval and ask for the pink flux. They will know what you are talking about.

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Danbo, soul brother of Rambo
 
Coty 303 ss is a lot harder to solder than 416,nickel silver,brass,etc.Back in the 1980s I had the same problem,when I called a couple of other Knifemakers to ask how they did it,they said they did'nt use it for guards anymore for that reason.Kept the 303 for bolsters,used 416 for guards.

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MIKE
 
The solder DANBO is talking about is EUTECTIC and it is available from Koval. It is damned expensive...BUT....it is the only solder I ever use.

I take that back....when I make a hidden tang knife which will have a screw on pommel, I will use a soft solder, which flows at 275F and is 100% easier to use that silver solders. I have tested it and it is plenty strong. I might end up using it all the time. It is called TIX, and I get it from Brownells.
 
Thanks everyone...Mike, if I ever get this stuff to stick, it will be the last time I use 303 for this. GenO--I have a heat gun, but I never thought of using that. Expect a call from me, but not for a couple of months (I'm military and will be out of town for a while). I'll also try the different solder, thanks XRayed and Danbo. Now I'm off to apologize to my neighbors in the next county over...they were probably wondering what I was cursing about
biggrin.gif


look sharp,

coty
 
Don't know if you've seen it, but Terry Primos has an excellent JB Weld guard tutorial on his site...http://www.shreve.net/~primos/guardtut1.htm

 
Howdy There Coty...!
I suggest that you listen to Mr. GenO, he knows from what he speaks. Just his demo at the NC guild meeting and he does know how to solder a guard to a blade. Think that he had a good teacher named MR. Herron. Give GenO a email...!
Later "Possum"


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Thomas Clegg
 
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