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The blade should narrow slightly from the heel to where the belly starts. If you the knife on a cutting board flat, the handle should angle slightly up.
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Please pick apart my drawing
- Thread starter JParisi48
- Start date
This must be close. I looked at the Kramer knives you guys were talking about and understand what you meant about the angle of the handle. I also made the blade a little shorter in height. Length of the blade is 7''. I also drew in what would be the cutting board to show you the angle on a flat surface. Let me know what you think, thanks.
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I like it.
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- Aug 1, 2008
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the last is your best drawing yet. the tip needs to be a bit lower for a japanese style. or more gradual curves for a european style no flat areas on the edge and the blade is widest at the heal for either style.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
ilmarinen - MODERATOR
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Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Looks really good. Simple handle...simple blade....simply efficient!
About the edge and flat spots.
When I grind the edge profile on a knife with an edge like this one, I take the blade to a hard and flat surface ( usually a granite surface block) and roll the knife from heel to tip, then back again. It should only contact the surface at one spot during the entire movement. If there is even a tiny straight/flat spot, you will feel it "thump" as the flat spot hits. If there is a problem, I adjust the continuous curve on the flat platen by holding the knife vertically, placing the knife edge against a 220 grit belt running at slow speed, and smoothly rolling the blade from tip to heel. This will take off any high spots, and leave a continuous curve.
Don't start at the heel, or you may make the handle drop. It shouldn't change the handle angle if done tip to heel, and if it does, it is better to raise it a small fraction of an inch than to drop it any amount at all.
The same function can be done by drawing the edge along a sheet of sandpaper taped down on a hard flat surface.
After grinding in the bevels, the edge check is repeated. If I ground a straight/flat spot during bevel shaping, I correct it.
When the knife is heat treated and the bevels are sanded and ready for the final edge, check it again.
Even after a few sharpenings, a flat spot may appear, and need a slight edge sanding to take it out.
Fun Note:
Some knife shapes will have a straight section that then curves up to the tip ( some large chef blades). Others have a continuous very low curve, and the tip drops to the edge ( santoku). If you look at these shapes, you may notice that they often are nearly identical, just flipped upside down. Look at a blade shape both ways. Sometimes it looks better the other way.
About the edge and flat spots.
When I grind the edge profile on a knife with an edge like this one, I take the blade to a hard and flat surface ( usually a granite surface block) and roll the knife from heel to tip, then back again. It should only contact the surface at one spot during the entire movement. If there is even a tiny straight/flat spot, you will feel it "thump" as the flat spot hits. If there is a problem, I adjust the continuous curve on the flat platen by holding the knife vertically, placing the knife edge against a 220 grit belt running at slow speed, and smoothly rolling the blade from tip to heel. This will take off any high spots, and leave a continuous curve.
Don't start at the heel, or you may make the handle drop. It shouldn't change the handle angle if done tip to heel, and if it does, it is better to raise it a small fraction of an inch than to drop it any amount at all.
The same function can be done by drawing the edge along a sheet of sandpaper taped down on a hard flat surface.
After grinding in the bevels, the edge check is repeated. If I ground a straight/flat spot during bevel shaping, I correct it.
When the knife is heat treated and the bevels are sanded and ready for the final edge, check it again.
Even after a few sharpenings, a flat spot may appear, and need a slight edge sanding to take it out.
Fun Note:
Some knife shapes will have a straight section that then curves up to the tip ( some large chef blades). Others have a continuous very low curve, and the tip drops to the edge ( santoku). If you look at these shapes, you may notice that they often are nearly identical, just flipped upside down. Look at a blade shape both ways. Sometimes it looks better the other way.
Wow thanks for all the help guys I really appreciate it! Stacy, I took a few knives out my my kitchen draw, And I understand what you mean completly. I have both european style and the santoku style knives in there. But the european style, made by Cutco is flat from the heel to about 5'' down the blade then starts to curve toward the tip, the santoku has a more consistent curve, but the widest portion on the blade is close to the middle. The knife I drew is a happy medium which I dont mind at all. I also dropped the heel another 1/8'' and made the curve so it doesnt have a flat spot and it should roll on a flat surface like you and Bill were saying. Again thank you, I will make a thread with my progress once the rest of my supplies get here. 