Please provid your rust prevention tips for sr101

I don't do much on my carbon steel. Had a few spots on my rattle hawk. I always fondling it andoesn't putting it away without doing anything. Pretty dry where I live. But I have oil.
 
Havent had much problem on the edge with my 1095 coated blades, but i think i jumped to the conclusion that sr101 was more rust prone than 1095 based on what i have read
.... I find my 1095 (ESEE and Ontario and maybe some others if I look hard enough) more prone to rust than my SR101. *I* (so take that for what it is worth) think most of the "rust prone" reputation comes form the comparisons to INFI when people are saying that "INFI does not rust like SR101" or is "less prone to rust" etc. This is being read as SR101 turning orange and falling away overnight when it should be read as INFI being highly corrosion resistant. A subtle but important difference.

I found a stripped and abused Scrapper5 I had forgotten down in my garage, probably sat there in a kydex sheath for 18months from last use, my garage is damp and gets water through it when we have big rain last the weekend before last (and probably tomorrow now I expect) so it is not a friendly climate. A couple of the eyelets on the kydex had visible/felt/orange crust rust but the blade had some dark spots and one small orange spot on the spine that rubbed off and left no visible pitting. When I hunt I often use a HRLM with a polished edge to dress game, I wipe the blood off at the end but I don't oil till I get back home, no issues there.

It IS carbon steel and WILL rust without some sensible maintenance but no more so (and less than many I personally believe) than any other similar steel.

Andy
 
Thanks Andy
That is reassuring
Especially considering i am also from Sydney myself.

And i agree that perhaps people are comparing sr101 to infi in terms of rust.
But i have also read more than a few times that sr101 rusts "just by looking at it". Obviously i know that is not meant to be taken literally but sure does sound worrying.

The only problem ive had so far with 1095 is some black spots on my ka bar tanto on the serrations, doesnt look like rust but doesnt seem to be able to come off either.

Do you guys store your knives in their respected kydex/leather sheaths or in the cardboard cover provided?
 
I generally don't store my blades in a sheath unless they are a day in and out user. My SR101 users (HRLM/RMD etc) live in kydex.

Again I believe much of the 101 rusting soooooooo badly is perpetuated urban myth from one expert to the next. Yes it will and can but no more so than any other carbon steel blade. Take a look at the pics AZTim posts around of his tractor mounted 1311, it is used and abused with much at all in the way of maintenance. It has yet to turn to dust... ;)

Those spots on your KBAR are the start of corrosion and you will see the same with SR101, but no more or less.
 
Ahhh yes i see
Thanks Andy
I am a little suprised it is the start of corrosion as i kept my ka bar oiled quite regularly but i am not to fussed either.

I plan to baby my coming rmd more than my ka bar tbh, just because when ka bar wont, ratmandu
But in all honest i am no longer worried about rust, thanks guys
 
Mate, as long as you keep the knife clean and dry you really won't have much issues with rust on SR-101.
I've never had any problems, I just use the knives on fruit & veggies or raw beef to get some natural patina going.
The tendency to rust of SR-101 is way overblown


THIS, plus this (below) and I've had no issues ever.


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Awesome!
I am excited to see what sr101 can do, and even more so after reassurance from you folks
 
I use froglube on the blades I wasn't to try and keep polished, i.e. No patina.
It works well if you heat the blade as instructed.

I've left SR-101 blades in leather sheaths with salt and liquor after bar shifts and came to find nothing other than surface darkened spots. Everything was removed with a scotch brite pad.
 
I use the same white mineral oil I use on my bamboo cutting boards.

Works. Non toxic.
 
Ok so it wasn't rainy at all this weekend, so instead I did a quick simulation.

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Three steels to test, I added a Spyderco Dragonfly in ZDP 189 after this shot just because.

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Gave them I nice drink and set a 30 minute timer,,

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Nothing.. Hmm lets get them a little dirty so the moisture will adhere

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Another 30 minutes

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Nothing,, let's try a thin even wet tissue so maybe moisture/air can contact

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30 minutes

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Nothing, I think I'm doing this wrong,, let's add some vegetation,, because,, science

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Ok enough of this, I have some Fathers Day to enjoy,, leave these guys out to dry in the sun.

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Ok here we go
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CPM3V. Nada, zip zilch

d2fc6dc2d725684c723a9cfcba19ba91.jpg

ZDP189. Huh,, rust. Maybe need to switch to a Salt version for my summertime carry.

c48c5d70d00228ac610ff20d2c7b4009.jpg

INFI. Nada, that glare maybe looks like rust, I assure you it's not,, not even any water spots. Onto the specimen in question..

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Ok so clearly it has the least amount of corrosion resistance, I don't think that's a surprise. Even when polished to a mirror finish, it will develop the surface rust that luckily can get beat off quickly on some branches and vines.

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All oiled up for storage.

Cheers
 
Thanks for doing that rcb!
It clearly had some rust to it but it seems like you were able to scrub it off by the looks of it^
Were there any marks that remained permanent?
 
IV noticed sr101 does patina very quickly live if Oregon and befor that Washington lost of moisture had few blades in a drawer in bed room and one on night stand and noticed on the night stand the edge will develop a lil patina over night and in the drawer over a week or two the had patina on the edge they were not oiled freshly sharpened. No real rust though and patina comes right off with use
 
rcb2000, I was curious about the squiggly mark on the chopper. Was it visible thru the coating? I've seen it in pics of a couple different sized stripped Scrappers.
 
Thanks for doing that rcb!
It clearly had some rust to it but it seems like you were able to scrub it off by the looks of it^
Were there any marks that remained permanent?

My pleasure, always fun to get the blades out. There were marks left that had to be sanded off with very fine sandpaper, 800 grit. I've heard of people using scotch brite pads as well.

rcb2000, I was curious about the squiggly mark on the chopper. Was it visible thru the coating? I've seen it in pics of a couple different sized stripped Scrappers.
You could see the machining mark through the coating at just the right angle. I'm love it, gives the knife character.
 
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