Please sell me on the Surefire L4

If you are very close to an attacker, the L4 might be more "blinding" than the E2e because of how white the light is. A guy at work was examing my L4 and accidently shined it in his eyes in a lit room. It sure startled him. He jumped back and yelled "what is this thing, a laser!" You do need something much brighter than either of them to stand a chance of stunning someone at any distance. The only thing I don't like about the L4 for SD is you have to make sure the batteries are good. Because of the regulation, you have no warning when the light is about to go dim, and when it does it's not bright enough to blind anybody

After I got my L4, I sold my E2e because I never used it. Then I thought I might miss out on the longer throw, so I got a Streamlight NF2 to replace it because it's even brighter. Still I kept using the L4 for everything and sold the NF2. Surprisingly, the L4 actually has a smaller hotspot, but the spill beam around it is brighter than the E2e which concentrates more of the light in the center. If you turn them on at the same time at short range the L4 makes the E2e look sick and weak. I was worried that it would be too bright for general purpose use, but it's not. I use it for everything and carry it everytime I'll be out at night. In spite of the larger size, it has replace my Arc LS for EDC. One other item; the L4 is slightly longer than the E2e.

Get the L4 if the money doesn't matter.
 
Originally posted by kz1000s1
If you turn them on at the same time at short range the L4 makes the E2e look sick and weak.
Click to expand...
I agree. It's more about the color than the brightness.
The MN03 is only better beyond 30ft. or so (MUCH better beyond that distance), and since it's not my choice for throw, either, the KL4 immediately replaced it-got a TW4 this past week, but have been using the E2e body, mostly.
Another big factor for me is the KL4's regulation. If you look at the runtimes for the L4 and MN03 on two cells, they are similar. That is deceiving. The L4 is regulated, and should maintain its whiteness/brightness throughout its runtime, while the MN03 begins to dim and yellow relatively quickly. I always want to change the batteries after half an hour or so (guesstimate), so for me, the L4 effectively doubles the runtime, and the beam is much more useful for what I typically use the light for, as it has a smoother beam, with seemingly brighter spill that is whiter, and makes details stand out better.
Just a few weeks ago, I was thinking that I would bypass a 5w LED unless it was built for throw, feeling that it would be a waste of batteries, due to the shorter runtime, and that a 1w like my KL1 was plenty for close range flood.
Somehow wound up buying the TW4 anyway, and actually using the KL4 has changed my perception of "close range flood".
What a perfect beam...
The TW4 (E1e/KL4) is also excellent indoors, and at close range, when the L4 might be "too much".
I would buy it again without hesitation<<<can't think of a better review than that.
 
Thanks a lot for your input guys! I am leaning towards the L4 now, but still wishing I could get a TID for it (I do a bit of travel in the air). Do you think/know if the L4 bezel could withstand the shock? I thought that LEDs were supposed to be tougher than incandescent, is that true? Thanks again.
 
Oops sorry, one more question. :D It sounds like the beam from the LED “floods” to the point that it may not be too good in a fire. I have read on Surefire’s website how the incandescent beam can cut through the smoke pretty good in a building fire, and I am wondering if the L4’s beam would act more like “brights in the fog.” I know I may be sounding a bit paranoid, but I would like to think of everything before I buy a $150 flashlight. Thanks again!
 
Tctical warehouse has the Z57 in stock for $38 I bought the E2E and the KL4 head then bought the Z57 and an L4 body and just ordered the E1e with the KL1 so currently I have an L4 and E2E with the correct heads and tails and just waiting on the E1e/KL1 combo
 
Originally posted by anewguy
It sounds like the beam from the LED “floods” to the point that it may not be too good in a fire. I have read on Surefire’s website how the incandescent beam can cut through the smoke pretty good in a building fire, and I am wondering if the L4’s beam would act more like “brights in the fog.”
Click to expand...
There's the compromise with a wider beam. Smoke and fog disperse the beam further. You need a tight beam to penetrate it, and that means giving up that useful flood that probably works better as a "general purpose" light 90+% of the time (at least for my use).
Up close with the L4, you can still see well, but shining the light through the fog-you're just trying to see through brighter fog.
We've had some fog lately, and the same things in my yard that were brightly illuminated when it was clear, look like they're being viewed through a frosted pane of glass in the fog, when I can see them at all. My UltraStinger is a thousand times better at cutting the fog, but it's not something I want to carry or use most of the time. Different tools for different uses.
 
The L4 has the new scalloped bezel that might have some of the same function as the TID. Latest production E2e's also do. The bezel should take the shock as well as any light would and the Pyrex lens is very thick. For heatsinking, the rest of the head is fairly thick, and the body has the best checkerign of any light.

Coming out soon are the new L5 and L6 5W LED lights that will be brighter than the L4, though bigger in size. If you still prefer an incandescent light the same size, you might also consider the A2, which is regulated and has LEDs for two light levels.
 
I've heard some reports that the L4 gets very hot when used for more than a few minutes at a time (so hot that you can't keep holding on to it). I know my LSH-P 1watt gets pretty toasty. Anyone have experience in this area?

Also, given the relatively lower price of the E2e and availability of the KL1 head (which is not as bright but longer runtime and still very good light) for less than one L4 would that be a more versatile setup?
 
Originally posted by HesNot
I've heard some reports that the L4 gets very hot when used for more than a few minutes at a time (so hot that you can't keep holding on to it). I know my LSH-P 1watt gets pretty toasty. Anyone have experience in this area?
Click to expand...

On the L4, the hot area is only the bezel -- the body will only get "warm" at best, and will be nowhere near "too hot to hold."

:)

On a E1e body, bringing this combo (TW4, coined by Tactical Warehouse, who first sold this combo as a "dealer option" set) down to the size of the ARC LS models, the TW4 head will produce nearly no heat -- and your overall light output will still be higher than that of a LSH-P.

This thread on CandlePower Forums is one you'll wantto read if the TW4 -vs- LSH-P comparison is one you're looking at:

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/ub...=374761&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1

:)

Also, given the relatively lower price of the E2e and availability of the KL1 head (which is not as bright but longer runtime and still very good light) for less than one L4 would that be a more versatile setup?
Click to expand...

This is debatable -- remember that the L4 will start out being MUCH brighter...and will remain still quite bright even in "moon" mode.

The KL1 tops out in the same setup at 15 lumens in Sun mode.....that's a big difference.

:)

Allen
aka DumboRAT
 
How about this, buy an L4 and also order an E series bezel and lamp and then you can have the best of both worlds.

edited to add,,,
DOH!!!! :footinmou this has already been said by a couple of people

(note to self,must read entire post BEFORE replying)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top