Plunge Cuts

coldsteelburns said:
In the past I've seen some Brazilian 'smiths make this same idea of an attachment for their integrals, but here is one attachment (idea) for using a small wheel to do plunges that Chris from Wilmont Grinders sells (it's pretty pricey though):



~Paul
My Youtube Channel
... (Some older vids of some of the older knives I made)
Click to expand...
Suicide attachment :D To point tip in running belt is madness :eek:And this attachment is perfect tool to destroy already prefect bevels :)
 
DustinY said:
sell me the platen
Click to expand...
Haha I don't use it MUCH, but I still use it :D have 2 large fixed blades coming in for a "hand-rubbed finish" soon that it will come in very handy for.

I do like the working angle of Chris Williams though, seems very convenient.
 
razor-edge-knives said:
Haha I don't use it MUCH, but I still use it :D have 2 large fixed blades coming in for a "hand-rubbed finish" soon that it will come in very handy for.

I do like the working angle of Chris Williams though, seems very convenient.
Click to expand...


Would you mind snapping a picture of it? So I can get an idea of it?
 
I made something similar that meets up with my small wheel for integrals and another one that is just a straight, radiused piece of steel like Kyles.

The problem I had with the one like Kyles is that there was so much friction that the belt would jump all over when I bumped the plunge up into the edge the belt was rolling over. There's probably some tweaking that needs to be done with tension, and how much force you grind with, and maybe even drive wheel traction, because the second problem I had when reducing tension was drive wheel slippage.

The platen/small wheel combination works perfectly though.
 
kuraki said:
I made something similar that meets up with my small wheel for integrals and another one that is just a straight, radiused piece of steel like Kyles.

The problem I had with the one like Kyles is that there was so much friction that the belt would jump all over when I bumped the plunge up into the edge the belt was rolling over. There's probably some tweaking that needs to be done with tension, and how much force you grind with, and maybe even drive wheel traction, because the second problem I had when reducing tension was drive wheel slippage.

The platen/small wheel combination works perfectly though.
Click to expand...


Would love to see both setups, think I’m going to try to make my own as well. Curious how to radius it though.
 
DustinY said:
Would you mind snapping a picture of it? So I can get an idea of it?
Click to expand...
i-fbsW4jG-X4.jpg
 
DustinY said:
Would love to see both setups, think I’m going to try to make my own as well. Curious how to radius it though.
Click to expand...

Just square up your work rest, take the plate or angle iron or whatever you're going to use, set it up on edge and grind a radius on the end the belt will roll over. The size or form of the radius isn't really critical, but it being the same top and bottom is, since you'll have the flip the blade over to use it on both sides.
 
BTW, adding a layer of graphite over the platen really reduces the friction and makes it run LOTS cooler.
 
you can buy graphite sheets with a sticky back about anywhere on internet, search for graphite platen.
 
DustinY said:
Like with a graphite pencil or? Hahaha
Click to expand...
I should have been more clear. As Alex said it's graphite sheets. Here's what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008GXTRIO with contact cement to attach to platen. Make a new platen from mild steel, doesn't need to be hardened or anything since there is no wear on metal. It's amazing how much easier the 2X72 belt slides over the platen with the graphite layer on top.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top